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1775.

Ætat, 66.

more. The friar that spoke to us had a pretty apartment.--Mr. Baretti say», four rooms; I remember but three.--His books seemed to be French.His garden was neat; he gave me grapes.-We saw the Place de Victoire, with the statues of the King, and the captive nations.

“ We saw the palace and gardens of Luxembourg, but the gallery was fhut.-We climbed to the top stairs.--I dined with Colbrooke, who had much company :-Foote, Sir George Rodney, Motteux, Udfon, Taaf.-Called on the Prior, and found him in bed.

“ Hotel—a guinea a day.-Coach, three guineas a week.—Valet de place, three l. a day.--Avant-coureur, a guinea a week.-Ordinary dinner, fix 1. a head. Our ordinary seems to be about five guineas a day.--Our extraordinary expences, as diversions, gratuities, clothes, I cannot reckon.Qur travelling is ten guineas a day.

“ White stockings, 18 l. Wig.--Hat.

“ Sunday, Oct. 29. We saw the boarding-school.„The Enfans trouvés.-A room with about eighty-six children in cradles, as sweet as a parlour. They lose a third; take in to perhaps more than seven [years old); put them to trades ; pin to them the papers sent with them.—Want nurses.-Saw their chapel.

“ Went to St. Eustatia ; saw an innumerable company of girls catechised, in many bodies, perhaps 100 to a catechist.–Boys taught at one time, girls at another.—The sermon; the preacher wears a cap, which he takes off at the name :-his action uniform, not very violent.

“ Oct. 30. Monday. We saw the library of St. Germain.A very noble collection.-Codex Divinorum Officiorum, 1459:~a letter, square like that of the Offices, perhaps the same.—The Codex, by Fust and Gernsheym.Meursius, 12 v. fol.Amadis, in French, 3 v. fol.CATHOLICON fine colophone, but of 1460.-Two other editions 4, one by Augustin. de Civitate Dei, without name, date, or place, but of Fult's square letter as it seems.

“ I dined with Col. Drumgould ;-had a pleasing afternoon.

“ Some of the books of St. Germain's stand in presses from the wall, like those at Oxford.

4 I have looked in vain into De Bure, Meerman, Mattaire, and other typographical books, for the two editions of the “ Catholicon,” which Dr. Johnson mentions here, with names which I cannot make out. I read“ one by Latinius, one by Bredinus." I have deposited the original MS. in the British Museum, where the curious may see it. My grateful acknowledgements are due 20 Mr. Planta for the trouble he was pleased to take in aiding my researches,

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1775. “ Oct. 31. Tuesday. I lived at the Benedictines ; meagre day; soup Ætat. 66. meagre, herrings, eels, both with fauce; fryed fish ; lentils, tasteless in them

selves. In the library ; where I found Maffeus's de Historia Indicâ : Promontorium flestere, to double the Cape. I parted very tenderly from the Prior and Friar Wilkes.

Maitre es Arts, 2 y.--Bacc. Theol. 3 y.-Licentiate, 2 y.-Doctor Th. 2 y. in all 9 years.-For the doctorate three disputations, Major, Minor, Sorbonica.-Several colleges suppressed, and transferred to that which was the Jesuit's College.

“ Nov. 1. Wednesday. We left Paris._St. Denis, a large town; the church not very large, but the middle isle is very lofty and aweful.—On the left are chapels built beyond the line of the wall, which destroy the fymmetry of the sides.---The organ is higher above the pavement than any have ever seen.—The gates are of brass.--On the middle gate is the history of our Lord.—The painted windows are historical, and said to be eminently beautiful.—We were at another church belonging to a convent, of which the portal is a dome; we could not enter further, and it was almost dark.

-“ Nov. 2. Thursday. We came this day to Chantilly, a seat belonging to the Prince of Condé.—This place is eminently beautified by all varieties of waters starting up in fountains, falling in cascades, running in streams, and fpread in lakes. The water seems to be too near the house.--All this water is brought from a fource or river three leagues off, by an artificial canal, which for one league is carried under ground.—The house is magnificent.The cabinet seems well stocked: what I remember was, the jaws of a hippopotamus, and a young hippopotamus preserved, which, however, is fo small that I doubt its reality.--It seems too hairy for an abortion, and too small for a mature birth.—Nothing was in fpirits; all waş dıy.—The dog; the deer; the ant-bear with long snout.—The toucan, long broad beak. The stables were of very great length.—The kennel had no scents.—There was a mockery of a village.—The Menagerie had few animals 5.--Two fausfans", or Brasilian weasels, spotted, very wild.—There is a forest, and, I think, a park.

3 The writing is so bad here, that the names of several of the animals could not be decyphered without much more acquaintance with natural history than I possess. Dr. Blagden, with his usual politeness, moft obligingly examined the MS. To that gentleman, and to Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, who also very readily afifted me, I beg leave to express my best thanks.

6 It is thus written by Johnson, from the French pronunciation of Foljane. It should be observed, that the person who showed this Menagerie was mistaken in supposing the fasane and the Brasilian weasel to be the same, the foffane being a different animal, and a native of Madagascar. I find them, however, upon one plate in Pennant's “ Synopsis of Quadrupeds." 2

I walked

1775

Ætat. 66.

I walked till I was very weary, and next morning felt my feet battered, and with pains in the toes.

“ Nov. 3. Friday. We came to Compiegne, a very large town, with a royal palace built round a pentagonal court. The court is raised upon vaults, and has, I suppose an entry on one side by a gentle rise.—Talk of painting: The church is not very large, but very elegant and splendid.—I had at first great difficulty to walk, but motion grew continually easier.–At night we came to Noyon, an episcopal city.—The cathedral is very beautiful, the pillars alternately Gothick and Corinthian.-We entered a very noble parochial church.- Noyon is walled, and is said to be three miles round.

“ Nov. 4. Saturday. We rose very early, and came through St. Quintin to Cambray, not long after three.—We went to an English nunnery, to give a letter to Father Welch, the confeffor, who came to visit us in the evening.

“ Nov. 5. Sunday. We saw the cathedral.—It is very beautiful, with chapels on each side.—The choir splendid.—The balustrade in one part brass.--The Neff very high and grand.—The altar silver as far as it is seen.The vestments very splendid. At the Benedictines church

Here his journal? ends abruptly. Whether he wrote any more after this time, I know not; but probably not much, as he arrived in England about the 12th of November. These short notes of his tour, though they may seem minute taken singły, make together a considerable mass of information, and exhibit such an ardour of enquiry and acuteness of examination, as, I believe, are found in but few travellers, especially at an advanced age. They completely refute the idle notion which has been propagated, that he could not fee; and, if he had taken the trouble to revise and digest them, he undoubtedly could have expanded them into a very entertaining narrative.

When I met him in London the following year, the account which he gave me of his French tour, was, “ Sir, I have feen all the visibilities of Paris, and around it; but to have formed an acquaintance with the people there, would have required more time than I could stay. I was just beginning to creep into acquaintance by means of Colonel Drumgould, a very high man, Sir, head of L'Ecole Militaire, a most complete character, for he had first been a professor of rhetorick, and then became a soldier. And, Sir, I was very kindly treated by the English Benedictines, and have a cell appropriated to me in their convent.”

? My worthy and ingenious friend, Mr. Andrew Lumisdaine, by his accurate acquaintance with France, enabled me to make out many proper names, which Dr. Johnson had written indistinctly, and sometimes spelt erroneously.

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1775. He observed, “ The great in France live very magnificently, but the rest
Atat. 66. very miserably. There is no happy middle state as in England. The shops of

Paris are mean; the meat in the markets is such as would be sent to a gaol
in England: and Mr. Thrale justly observed, that the cookery of the French
was forced upon them by necesity; for they could not eat their meat, unless
they added some taste to it. The French are an indelicate people; they will
spit upon any place. At Madame –

's, a literary lady of rank, the
footinan took the sugar in his fingers, and threw it into my coffee. I was
going to put it aside; but hearing it was made on purpose for me, I e’en
tasted Tom's fingers. The same lady would needs make tea á l’Angloise.
The spout of the tea-pot did not pour freely: the bade the footman blow into
it. France is worse than Scotland in every thing but climate. Nature has
done more for the French; but they have done less for themselves than the
Scotch have done.”

It happened that Foote was at Paris at the same time with Dr. Johnson, and his description of my friend while there was abundantly ludicrous. He told me, that the French were quite astonished at his figure and manner, and at his dress, which he obstinately continued exactly as in London ;-his brown clothes, black stockings, and plain shirt. He mentioned, that an Irish gentleman said to Johnson, “Sir, you have not seen the best French players.” Johnson. “ Players, Sir !

Players, Sir! I look on them as no better than creatures set upon tables and joint-stools to make faces and produce laughter, like dancing dogs.”—“ But, Sir, you will allow that some players are better than others ?” Johnson. " Yes, Sii, as some dogs dance better than others.”

While Johnson was in France, he was generally very resolute in speaking
Latin. It was a maxim with him that a man should not let himself down,
by speaking a language which he speaks imperfectly. Indeed, we must have
often observed how inferiour, how much like a child a man appears, who
speaks a broken tongue. When Sir Joshua Reynolds, at one of the dinners
of the Royal Academy, presented him to a Frenchman of

great distinction, he
would not deign to speak French, but talked Latin, though his Excellency
did not understand it, owing, perhaps, to Johnson's I'nglish.pronunciation:
yet upon another occasion he was observed to speak French to a Frenchman
of high rank, who spoke English ; and being asked the reason, with some
expression of surprize,—he answered, “ Because I think my French is as good
as his English.” Though Johnson understood French perfectly, he could not
speak it readily, as I have observed at his first interview with General Paoli,
in 1769; yet he wrote it, I imagine, very well, as appears fioin foine of his
letters in Mrs. Piozzi's collection, of which I shall transcribe one.
6

A Madame

1775,

Ætat. 66.

A Madame La Comtesse de

July 16, 1771. " OUI, Madame, le moment est arrivé, et il faut que je parte. Mais pourquoi faut il partir? Est ce que je m'ennuye? Je m'ennuyerai alleurs. Est ce que je cherche ou quelque plaisir, Cl! quelque soulagement? Je ne cherche rien, je n'espere rien. Aller voir ce que jei vi, etre un peut rejoité, un peu degouté, ne resouvenir que la vie se passe, et qu'elle se passe en vain, me plaindre de moi, m'endurcir aux dehors; voici le tout de ce qu'on compte pour les delices de l'anné. Que Dieu vous donne, Madame, tels les agrémens de la vie, avec un esprit qui peut en jouir fans s'y livrer trop.

Here let me not forget a curious anecdote, as related to me by Mr. Beauclerk, which I shall endeavour to exhibit as well as I can in that gentleman's lively manner; and in justice to him it is proper to add, that Dr. Johnson told me, I might rely both on the correctness of his memory, and the fidelity of his narrative. “ When Madame de Boufflers was first in England, (faid Beauclerk,) she was desirous to see Johnson. I accordingly went with her to his chambers in the Temple, where she was entertained with his conversation for some time. When our visit was over, she and I left him, and were got into Inner Temple-lane, when all at once I heard a noise like thunder. This was occasioned by Johnson, who it seems upon a little recollection, had taken it into his head that he ought to have done the honours of his literary residence to a foreign lady of quality, and eager to shew himself a man of gallantry, was hurrying down the staircase in violent agitation. He overtook us before we reached the Templegate, and brushing in between me and Madame de Boufflers, feised her hand, and conducted her to her coach. His dress was a rusty brown morning suit, a pair of old shoes by way of nippers, a little shrivelled wig sticking on the top of his head, and the Neeves of his shirt and the knees of his breeches hanging loose. A considerable crowd of people gathered round, and were not a little struck by this singular appearance.”

He spoke Latin with wonderful Auency and elegance. When Pere
Boscovich was in England, Johnson dined in company with him at Sir Joshua
Reynolds’s, and at Dr. Douglas's, now Bishop of Carlisle. Upon both
occasions that celebrated foreigner expressed his astonishment at Johnson's
Latin conversation.
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