one year. Eighteen firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunity to advance to high skilled work and two firms report to the contrary.

One firm reports that all and twenty-four that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; one firm reports that all and thirteen that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by fourteen firms as application. Nine firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; twenty-nine firms report no difficulty. Nineteen firms representing 7,097 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school, which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization, but not teach a special trade; twelve firms representing 6,227 employees answer this question in the negative. Fifteen firms representing 6,593 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; thirteen firms representing 5,859 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of twelve firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of seven firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of seven firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of fourteen firms answer this question in the negative. Fifteen firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high-grade skill; ten firms answer this question in the negative.

BRAIDS, EMBROIDERIES AND DRESS TRIMMINGS.

This group comprehends three distinct divisions, viz. the manufacture of braids, hand embroidery and machine embroidery.

The manufacture of millinery and dress braids is performed by machines. The silk is received in skeins and is wound upon spools by winders and is then made into braid upon the braiding machines after which it is wound upon spools for the market by lappers. These workers are all females. Girls start as lappers and in time generally learn to operate a braiding machine. The winders are the most expert help. Knitters and straw makers are expert male workers that make special kinds of braid.

Hand embroidery for dress trimmings is performed almost entirely by foreign trained workers. The child labor laws of the

State are held responsible by the employer for the absence of beginners in this trade. Girls of sixteen are not satisfied to start with the small wages necessary during the learning period.

Machine embroidery is made on the Bonnaz machine and in its finer forms requires much skill and commands high wages. A 66 finisher" sews on buttons and other embellishments, cuts off threads and supplies any defect left by the machine. The supply of highly skilled Bonnaz operators is at present not equal to the demand. Skilled workers come either from factories operating on inexpensive materials or from the Manhattan Trade School.

Returns were obtained from twelve establishments, all of which are in New York City. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during 1907 was 569 males and 2,352 females; the smallest, 313 males and 1,497 females.

The length of the working day varies from 9 hours to 10 hours, four firms giving 9 hours, four giving 91⁄2 hours, and four giving 10 hours. The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill is given as 415 males and 1,824 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 44.6 per cent foreign born and 55.4 per cent American born; of the females 35 per cent are noted as foreign born and 64.3 per cent as American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this lowgrade class ranges from $9.00 to $15.00, eight of the eleven firms reporting wages ranging from $10.00 to $12.00; for females the range is from $5.00 to $13.50, four out of the eleven firms reporting wages ranging from $5.00 to $6.00, and four giving $8.00 to $10.00.

Seven firms report employees under 16 years of age with a total of eleven males and 114 females.

A total of 65 males and 381 females employed under 18 years of age are reported in the low-grade class, of whom 57 males and 353 females are 16 or 17 years of age. The preferred age for beginners in this class ranges from 16 years to 21 years for males and from 15 to 18 years for females; out of nine firms reporting for males, five give 16 years; for females, out of ten firms reporting, six give 16 years. The weekly wage paid such beginners ranges from $2.00 to $9.00 for males, and from $2.00 to $7.00 for females; for males, five firms out of ten reporting give wages from $3.00 to $4.00; for females, seven out of twelve firms reporting give wages from $3.00 to $4.00. The average time required for male beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work ranges from one to five years; two firms of the eleven reporting give one year, three give two and one-half years, and two give three years; for females the range is from one to five years; seven of the twelve firms reporting give periods ranging from two to three years. Eleven firms report that female employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to the highest grade work and no firms report the contrary.

Two firms report that all and six that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; four firms report that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; those other sources are reported by three firms as advertising, and by one firm as applica

tion. Eight firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; three firms report no difficulty.

Nine firms representing 1,608 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16, in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; three firms representing 1,313 employees answer this question in the negative. Nine firms representing 2,381 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; two firms representing 453 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of seven firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of four firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of six firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of sucă establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of five firms answer this question in the negative. Seven firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high-grade skill; four firms answer this question in the negative.

MANUFACTURE OF CORDAGE AND TWINE.

The manufacture of cordage and twine represents a branch of the textile industry employing almost wholly unskilled or very low-grade skilled workers. The processes for making twine are confined to preparatory operators, and spinning or twisting. For making cordage cabling machines for forming strands and laying rope are required in addition.

Returns were obtained from six establishments, three of which are in New York City and three in other parts of the State. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during 1907 was 1,212 males and 1,293 females; the smallest, 916 males and 1,063 females.

The length of the working day is 10 hours.

The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill is given as 1,076 males and 1,238 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 57.7 per cent foreign born and 42.3 per cent American born; of the females 54.1 per cent are noted as foreign born and 45.9 per cent as American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this lowgrade class ranges from $7.50 to $11.00, four of the six firms reporting wages ranging from $7.50 to $9.00; for females the range is from $5.50 to $7.50, four out of six firms reporting wages from $6.75 to $7.50.

Two firms report employees under 16 years of age with a total of 20 males and 33 females.

A total of 37 males and 58 females employed under 18 years of age are reported in the low-grade class, of whom 37 males and 55 females are 16 or 17 years of age. The preferred age for beginners in this class ranges from 14 years to 20 years for males and from 14 years to 18 years for females; out of six firms reporting for males three give 16 years; for females out of six firms reporting three give 16 years. The weekly wage paid such beginners ranges from $3.50 to $9.00 for males, and from $3.50 to $5.50 for females; for males one firm each reports rates of $3.50, $4.50, $5.50, $6.00, $7.50, and $9.00; for females five out of six firms reporting give wages from $4.50 to $5.50. The average time required for male beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work ranges from 3 months to 3 years, three firms of the six reporting 1 year; for females the range is from 3 months to 3 years, three of the firms reporting 1 year. Six firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to high-grade work and no firms report the contrary.

Five firms report that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; one firm reports that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by two firms as application. Three firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; three firms report no difficulty.

Four firms representing 1,632 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industriai or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; two firms representing 873 employees answer this question in the negative. Four firms representing 1,632 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; two firms representing 873 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of three firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of no firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of one firm state that in its judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of three firms answer this question in the negative. Four firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high-grade skill; one firm answers this question in the negative.

7. CLOTHING, MILLINERY, LAUNDRY, ETC.

The manufacture of clothing represents the most important industry in New York State and in New York City, both as regards the number of workers employed and the amount of wages paid.

In the manufacture of "tailor made" garments such as men's and boys' clothing and women's cloaks and "cloth" suits the divisions of the trade are cutters, tailors, trimmers, operators, and finishers. The cutter represents the highest grade of skill and intelligence and is commonly paid the highest wages, although the grade of skill and wages varies greatly with different classes of establishments and different grades of work. In factories making the cheaper grades of clothing along a very few lines the cutting is done by machine upon large quantities at a time by operators of only medium-grade skill. The trimmer follows the cutter and sews on buttons, pockets, canvas stiffening and sleeve linings.

The tailor is a somewhat loose term in the present conditions of clothing manufacture, but commonly denotes one who is competent to perform all the various operations necessary to produce a finished garment after the cloth leaves the hands of the cutter. Often the tailor works at certain branches in which he is specially proficient but he is liable to be called upon for other kinds of work.

In the manufacture of men's clothing where uniformity is desirable it is usual to resort to team work where each member of the team performs a certain set of operations upon the garment. Commonly some members of the teams are tailors while others. are capable of performing only certain operations.

The finishers usually sew on buttons and braid, make buttonholes and sew in the linings. Finishers are often employed and paid by the tailor as helpers and are usually the channel by which learners become tailors:

Both hand and machine work are used in making garments. The worker that runs a machine solely is called an operator and may be either a man or a woman. In the manufacture of finer grades of clothing more hand work is performed than in the case of the cheaper kinds, consequently the tailor is represented more numerously in the former case and the operator in the latter. Many tailors, however, devote themselves to machine operating as the remuneration for a skillful operator is often more than for a tailor. In the cheaper grades of work the tailor often simply prepares the work for the operator, by basting and shaping the material and turning the hems, folds, etc.