Tailors are usually paid by piece work and often contract for certain parts of the work. Operators are also paid by the piece. Cutters are commonly paid by the day as are also the trimmers.

Men and women perform very much the same kind of work in the clothing trade except that women work on lighter goods. Tailors, however, are usually men while women are for the most part engaged in operating machines. The distinction between high and low grades skill among female operators is simply one of speed.

A large proportion of the tailors working in New York City are foreigners, who have learned their trade in Europe.

MEN'S AND BOYS' CLOTHING.

Returns were obtained from thirty-nine establishments, nineteen of which are in New York City and twenty in other parts of the State. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during the busy season of 1907 was 6,292 males and 4,689 females; during the slack season the totals were 4,737 males and 3,678 females. The length of the spring busy season varies from 11⁄2 months to 6 months, eleven out of thirty-six firms giving 5 months, nine giving 4 months and eight giving 6 months; the fall season varies within the same extremes, eleven out of thirty-six giving 4 months, nine giving 5 months, and nine giving 6 months.

The length of the working day varies from 8 hours to 104 hours, eighteen firms out of thirty-seven giving 10 hours, and eight giving 9 hours.

The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill during the busy season of 1907 is given as 3,099 males and 3,274 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 69.6 per cent foreign born and 30.4 per cent American born; of the females 50.8 per cent are noted as foreign born and 49.2 per cent as American born; in New York City the percentage of foreign born males is 82.2 and of females 73.3. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this low-grade class is as follows: Cutters, range $8.00 to $21.00, 8 out of 20 firms reporting $12.00 to $14.00; trimmers, range $6.00 to $18.00, 10 out of 20 firms reporting $10.00; operators, range $9.00 to $18.00, 13 out of 22 firms reporting $10.00 to $12.00; finishers, range $6.00 to $18.00, 7 out of 13 firms reporting $8.00 to $12.00. For females the figures are: trimmers, range $8.00 to $10.00, 2 out of 4 firms reporting $8.00; operators, range $5.00 to $12.00, 13 out of 18 firms reporting $8.00 to $10.00; finishers, range $5.00 to $12.00, 18 out of 29 firms reporting $8.00 to $10.00. The total number of adult employees of high-grade skill is given as 2,661 males and 837 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 56.7 per cent foreign born and 43.3 per cent American born; of the females 23.9 per cent are noted as foreign born and 76.1 per cent as American born. Of these high-grade skill employees 1,136 males are cutters and 1,525 males are tailors or operators, the 837 females are operators. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this high-grade class is as

follows: Cutters, range $14.00 to $40.00, 17 out of 33 firms reporting $20.00 to $22.00; tailors, range $11.00 to $24.00, 21 out of 27 firms reporting $14.00 to $18.00; female operators, range $7.00 to $16.00, 11 out of 16 firms reporting $11.00 to $13.00.

Nineteen firms report employees under 16 years of age with a total of 31 males and 68 females; of these 5 males and 3 females are reported from New York City. The effect of the law that went into operation October 1, 1906, relating to the hours of employment of boys and girls under 16 years of age is reported as follows: twenty-one establishments not affected; two establishments have discharged employees under 16 amounting to 3 boys; six establishments have ceased to employ children under that age.

A total of 174 males and 275 females employed under 18 years of age are reported in the low-grade class of whom 150 males and 222 females are 16 or 17 years of age. Of the total employees under 18 years of age, only 33 males and 8 females are reported from New York City and 141 males and 287 females from other parts of the State. The preferred age for male beginners in this class is as follows: Cutters, range 16 to 25 years, 14 out of 23 firms reporting 16 to 18 years; trimmers, range 16 to 25 years, 16 out of 21 firms reporting 16 to 18 years; operators, range 14 to 22 years, 10 out of 20 firms reporting 16 years; finishers, range 14 to 21 years, 10 out of 20 firms reporting 16 years; the figures reported for female beginners agree substantially with those given for males. Eight firms report that they employ only skilled workers and take no beginners. Very few firms reported upon the wages paid such beginners; the three firms reporting beginning wages of cutters give respectively $5.00, $6.00, and $10.00; for the wages of male beginners in the other lines $5.00 is the common rate given by the two firms reporting; for female operators and finishers $3.00 is the common figure given by the two firms reporting. The average time required for male beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work is given as follows: Cutters, range 1 to 5 years, 12 firms out of 25 reporting 3 years; trimmers, range 1 to five years, 10 firms out of 23 reporting 3 years; operators, range 6 months to 6 years, 10 firms out of 20 reporting 2 to 3 years; finishers, range 1 month to 6 years, 9 firms out of 17 reporting 1 to 2 years; for females the time is reported as follows: Operators, range 6 months to 6 years, 2 firms giving 6 months, one 1 year, one 2 years, two 3 years, two 5 years and one 6 years; finishers, range 1 month to 6 years, 7 firms out of 11 reporting 6 months to 2 years. Nineteen firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to high-grade work and 1 firm reports the contrary.

Three firms report that all, and ten that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; fourteen firms report that all, and ten that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by two firms as trade unions, by six firms as advertising, and by five firms as application. Eleven firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; twenty-four firms report no difficulty.

Twenty-five firms representing 7,701 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some

ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; nine firms representing 2,121 employees answer this question in the negative. Twentythree firms representing 7,236 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; twelve firms representing 2,966 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of eighteen firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of twelve firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of fifteen firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of seventeen firms answer this question in the negative. Seventeen firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high grade skill; thirteen firms answer this question in the negative.

Returns were obtained from twenty-five establishments, all of which are in New York City. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during the busy seasons of 1907 was 2694 males and 3498 females; during the slack seasons the totals were 1110 males and 1994 females; the length of the spring busy season varies from 12 months to 6 months, seven out of twenty-four firms giving 4 months and seven giving 5 months; the fall season varies from 11⁄2 months to 6 months, eight out of twenty-four firms giving 5 months, six giving 4 months and five giving 3 months.

The length of the working day varies from 8 hours to 11 hours, seventeen firms giving 9 hours.

The total number of adult employees of medium or low-grade skill during the busy season of 1907 is given as 1317 males and 1039 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 82.3 per cent foreign born and 18.7 per cent American born; of the females 74.8 per cent are noted as foreign born and 25.2 per cent as American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this low-grade class is as follows: operators, range $12.00 to $28.00, seven out of nine firms reporting wages from $13.00 to $16.00; finishers, range $7.00 to $13.00, three out of seven firms reporting wages of $10.00; for cutters one firm each reports rates of $9.00, $12.00, $14.00, $15.00, $16.00, $20.00 and $24.00; for trimmers one firm each reports rates of $10.00, $12.00 and $13.00 and two firms report $15.00; for females the rates are: trimmers, range $7.00 to $12.00, six out of eight firms reporting wages from $8.00 to $10.00; operators, range $7.00 to $12.00, seven firms out of eleven firms reporting wages from $9.00 to $10.00; finishers, range $6.00 to $11.25, ten out of fourteen firms reporting wages from $6.00 to $8.00.

The total number of adult male employees of high-grade skill is given as 1309 males and 2139 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 79.7 per cent foreign born and 20.3 per cent American born; of the females 67.8 per cent are noted as foreign born and 32.2 per cent as American born. Of

these high-grade skill employees 586 males and 15 females are cutters, 723 males are tailors or operators and 2124 females are operators. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this high-grade class is as follows: cutters, range $15.00 to $40.00, fourteen out of twenty firms reporting wages from $20.00 to $24.00; tailors, range $14.00 to $25.00, ten out of twelve firms reporting wages from $15.00 to $20.00; female operators, range $10.00 to $15.00, five out of twelve firms reporting wages of $12.00.

Four firms report employees under 16 years of age with a total of 4 males and 35 females. The effect of the law that went into operation October 1, 1906, relating to the hours of employment of boys and girls under 16 years of age is reported as follows: ten establishments not affected; two establishments have discharged employees under 16 amounting to 30 girls; one establishment has ceased to employ children under that age.

A total of only 13 males and 28 females employed under 18 years of age is reported in the low-grade class of whom 13 males and 21 females are 16 or 17 years of age. The preferred age for male beginners in this class is as follows: cutters, range 16 to 24 years, nine out of twelve firms reporting 18 to 20 years; trimmers, range 16 to 21 years, five out of nine firms reporting 18 to 20 years; operators, range 16 to 21 years, nine out of eleven firms reporting 18 to 21 years; finishers, range 15 to 21 years, six out of nine firms reporting 16 to 18 years; for females the preferred ages are: trimmers, range 16 to 21 years, five out of seven firms reporting 16 to 17 years; operators, range 16 to 21 years, five out of eight firms reporting 16 to 17 years; finishers, range 16 to 21 years, eight out of nine firms reporting 16 to 18 years. Fifteen firms report that they employ only skilled workers and take no beginners. Very few firms report upon the wages paid such beginners; the rates for males, each rate being reported by one firm, are for cutters, $5.00, $6.00, $10.00 and $12.00; for trimmers, $5.00, $6.00, $8.00 and $10.00; for operators, $4.00 and $5.00; and for finishers, $5.00 and $8.00. The average time required for male beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work is given as follows: cutters, range 2 months to 6 years, six out of eleven firms reporting 2 to 4 years; trimmers, range 2 months to 3 years, six out of nine firms reporting 6 months to 2 years; operators, range 2 months to 4 years, six out of ten firms reporting 2 to 3 years; finishers, range 6 months to 3 years, seven out of eight firms reporting 1 to 3 years. For females the time is reported as follows: trimmers, range 6 months to 3 years, two out of four firms reporting 2 years; operators, range 2 months to 3 years, three out of six firms reporting 2 years; for finishers one firm each reports 2 months, 6 months, 1 year and 2 years and two firms report 3 years. Six firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to high-grade work and one firm reports the contrary.

Three firms report that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; thirteen firms report that all and eight that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by one firm as trade unions, by eleven firms as advertising and by five firms as application. Ten firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; fourteen firms report no difficulty.

Sixteen firms representing 3,846 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; three firms representing 501 employees answer this question in the negative. Sixteen firms representing 3,707 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; four firms representing 925 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of thirteen firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of six firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of six firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of thirteen firms answer this question in the negative. Sixteen firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring highgrade skill; three firms answer this question in the negative.

MEN'S SHIRTS, COLLARS And cuffs.

The manufacture of men's shirts, collars and cuffs is mainly a woman's operating trade and is largely concentrated in the city of Troy and vicinity.

In the making of shirts there are the following operations: Cutting, sleeve making, yoke making, waistband making, body making, felling, assembling, hemming and buttonholing. All of these are machine operations except the cutting.

In the production of collars and cuffs the different operations are: Cutting, stamping, basting, running, stitching, trimming, binding, band turning, band stitching, buttonhole making and buttonholing. All of these except cutting, basting, trimming and band turning are machine operations. Some of these operations require a less degree of skill than others, but in many cases the distinction between low and high grade skill is simply one of speed. Some cutting is done by machines but the great bulk is performed by hand. This is the only operation requiring special skill and for this there is usually a three-year period of instruction. The other operations are learned in much less time in the factories.