firm as application. Ten firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; seven firms report no difficulty.

Twelve firms representing 913 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industria! or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; four firms representing 423 employees answer this question in the negative. Nine firms representing 1,034 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of 1 year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; eight firms representing 582 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of seven firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of seven firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of seven firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of eight firms answer this question in the negative. Nine firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring highgrade skill; eight firms answer this question in the negative.

CUSTOM MILLINERY.

Custom millinery is a marked seasonal trade. The majority of low and medium skilled employees that fail to retain regular employment either take up other lines of work in the dull seasons or are forced into idleness. Such conditions operate against the development of highly skilled workers and the participation of girls of superior ability and intelligence in subordinate positions in the trade. On the other hand independent establishments in this trade can be started with comparatively small capital and maintained successfully by women of superior taste and business ability.

It should be noted that the statistics of this trade and that of custom dressmaking have been obtained mainly from establishments dealing with a very high class of work in New York City and that the wages reported are in consequence higher than for the average shop.

Returns were obtained from nine establishments, all of which are in New York City. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during the busy seasons of 1907 was 280 females; during the slack seasons the total was 101 females. The length of the spring busy season as reported ranges from 1 month to 5 months, four

out of nine firms reporting 5 months and three giving 3 months; the fall season also ranges from 1 month to 5 months, four firms reporting 5 months. The length of the working day varies from 8 hours to 10 hours, three firms giving 82 hours, and two firms 9 hours.

The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill is given as 102 females. The nationality of these is noted as 4 per cent foreign born and 96 per cent American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult employees in this low-grade class is as follows:

The total number of adult employees of high-grade skill is given as 176 females. The nationality of these employees is noted as 38.6 per cent foreign born and 61.4 per cent American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult employees in this high-grade class is as follows:

Wages Designers: Firms

Wages

1

1

$10 00 $12 00 $14 00 $15 00 $25 00

1.

2

2

1

2

$10 00 $15 00 $25 00 $32 50 $45 00

1

1

1

1

1 1 $18 00 $25 00 $30 00 $32 50 $40 00 $50 00 $60 00 $65 00 Four firms report employees under 16 years of age with a total of 10 females. The effect of the law that went into operation October 1, 1906, relating to the hours of employment of boys and girls under 16 years of age is reported as follows: five establishments not affected; two establishments have ceased to employ children under that age.

A total of 40 females employed under 18 years of age are reported in the low-grade class of whom 31 females are 16 or 17 years of age. The preferred age for assistant beginners in this class ranges from 15 years to 16 years; out of seven firms reporting five give 16 years. The weekly wage paid such beginners ranges from $1.50 to $5.00, five firms out of seven reporting wages from $2.50 to $3.00. The average time required for beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work ranges from 1 year to 3 years, three firms of the six reporting 2 years. Eight firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to high-grade work and no firms report the contrary.

One firm reports that all and one that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; one firm reports that all and six that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by five firms as advertising and by one firm as applica

tion. Four firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; five firms report no difficulty.

Four report that the apprenticeship system meets the need for skilled employees in their business; one firm reports the contrary.

Seven firms representing 215 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; one firm representing 25 employees answers this question in the negative. Five firms representing 191 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; three firms representing 64 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of three firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advantageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of four firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of two firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of four firms answer this question in the negative. Six firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high-grade skill; two firms answer this question in the negative.

FACTORY MILLINERY.

Factory millinery is also a seasonal trade and as such is subject to the same limitations concerning the training of beginners mentioned in the case of custom millinery.

In the case of factories, very few girls under 18 years of age are employed. It is the rule to employ workers over this age that have gained some experience at the trade in custom shops or at home.

Returns were obtained from fourteen establishments, all of which are in New York City. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during the busy seasons of 1907 was 881 females; during the slack seasons the total was 326 females. The length of the spring busy season ranges from 3 to 8 months, seven out of fourteen firms reporting 5 months; the fall season ranges from 2 to 6 months, five out of fourteen firms reporting and four giving 4 months.

The length of the working day varies from 8 hours to 9 hours, eight firms giving 9 hours.

The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill is given as 425 females. The nationality of these employees is noted as 46.1 per cent foreign born and 53.9 per cent American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult employees in this low-grade class is as follows: assistants,

range $3.50 to $10.00, four out of eight firms reporting wages from $5.00 to $6.00; improvers, range $5.00 to $9.00, six out of nine firms reporting wages from $8.00 to $9.00; preparers, range $5.00 to $9.00, eight out of nine firms reporting wages from $7.00 to $9.00.

The total number of adult employees of high-grade skill is given as 456 females. The nationality of these employees is noted as 35.5 per cent foreign born and 64.5 per cent American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult employees in this high-grade class is as follows: copyists, range $10.00 to $30.00, six out of thirteen firms reporting wages from $10.00 to $12.00; trimmers, range $10.00 to $28.00, five out of eleven firms reporting wages of $12.00; designers, range $18.00 to $40.00, seven out of thirteen firms reporting wages from $25.00 to $30.00.

One firm reports employees under 16 years of age with a total of 8 females. The effect of the law that went into operation October 1, 1906, relating to the hours of employment of boys and girls under 16 years of age is reported as follows: eleven establishments not affected.

A total of 17 females employed under 18 years of age are reported in the low-grade class of whom 9 females are 16 or 17 years of age. The preferred age for beginners in this class ranges from 16 years to 21 years; out of eight firms reporting three give 17 years and two give 18 years. The weekly wage paid such beginners ranges from $3.00 to $6.00, four firms out of eight reporting wages of $5.00 and two firms giving $3.00. The average time required for beginners to gain full wages in low-grade work ranges from 6 months to 5 years, four firms of the seven reporting give 22 to 3 years. Ten firms report that employees of low-grade skill have opportunities to advance to high-grade work and no firms report the contrary. The age at which employees reach the various lines of the highly skilled class is as follows: copyists, 18 to 25 years, five out of twelve firms reporting ages falling within the group 20 to 21 years; trimmers, 18 to 25 years, six out of nine firms reporting ages falling within the group 20 to 21 years; designers, 18 to 30 years, five out of nine firms reporting ages falling within the group 23 to 25 years.

Two firms report that a majority of their skilled employees are trained in their own establishments; five firms report that all and seven that a majority of such employees are obtained from other sources; these other sources are reported by nine firms as advertising. Eight firms report that they have difficulty either in obtaining or training skilled employees; five firms report no difficulty.

Eight firms representing 505 employees report that the efficiency and future opportunities of their employees would be increased if they were given a training between the ages of 14 and 16 in a general public industrial or preparatory trade school which should aim to give a knowledge of materials, shop mathematics and fundamental industrial methods, and some ideas of industrial organization but not teach a special trade; five firms representing 316 employees answer this question in the negative. Eight firms representing 517 employees state that practical day trade schools, giving a specialized training of one year or more after the age of 16, would help to meet the problem of skilled employees in their business; six firms representing 364 employees answer this question in the negative. Representatives of seven firms state that in their judgment the last mentioned schools could be advan

tageously administered by the State or community at public expense and operated on a non-commercial product; representatives of six firms answer this question in the negative. Representatives of four firms state that in their judgment such schools would be practical if conducted by industrial establishments or a combination of such establishments and operated on a commercial product; representatives of nine firms answer this question in the negative. Nine firms report that practical evening, or part time, trade schools would be of value in helping unskilled workers, or those of low-grade skill, to advance to positions requiring high-grade skill; five firms answer this question in the negative.

MEN'S HATS.

In the manufacture of men's hats boys often start as errand boys or at small jobs about the factory. At 18 boys wishing to learn the trade in union shops are registered as apprentices by the United Hatters' Union and placed under a journeyman for six weeks, after which he is transferred to the charge of the foreman. Ap prentices serve three years and must be at least 21 years of age when their apprenticeship is finished.

In establishments making different kinds of hats the learner is given his choice as to which branch he wishes to follow and is given the first vacancy. He generally remains in that particular department, although opportunity is generally offered to learn all branches.

In non-union shops the status of an apprentice is not so definitely fixed and learners differentiate in their tasks according to ability. There is a class of work in all hat factories that requires little skill that is performed both by boys and adults at comparatively low wages.

Returns were obtained from eighteen establishments, twelve of which are in New York City and six in other parts of the State. The largest number of persons employed in the manufacturing departments of these establishments during 1907 was 3,840 males and 1,642 females; the smallest, 3,008 males and 1,338 females.

The length of the working day varies from nine hours to ten hours, thirteen firms giving nine hours.

The total number of adult employees of low-grade skill is given as 981 males and 253 females. The nationality of the males is noted as 38 per cent foreign born and 62 per cent American born; of the females 38.3 per cent are noted as foreign born and 61.7 per cent as American born. The weekly wage of the greatest number of adult male employees in this low-grade class ranges from $9.00 to $15.00, five of the ten firms reporting wages ranging from $9.00 to $10.50; for females the range is from $5.40 to $9.00, eight out of the ten firms reporting wages from $6.00 to $8.00.