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our divertissements, a series of grand tableaux | moving placed him beyond the reach of the vengevivants had eminent success. For the drama of ful insects by the time they were fairly aroused. Pocahontas and Captain Smith, the party—espe- He shouted the alarm, but too late for the wellcially the ladies-were already in admirable cos- being of the next in pursuit. Those still behind tume ; and with the wild glare of the fires, and hastily avoided the fatal track and escaped. While the ghostly forest back-ground, the representation we were quizzing our fellow-traveler upon his was very tragic.
swelled eye, incident to the warm reception givOf the rewards of all our enterprise and trials, en him by the hornets, Uncle Joe fell over a prosin the sublime spectacle of the succeeding dawn, trate tree and bruised his back. Very soon aster, we have already discoursed. After a very matu- another slipped upon a mossy rock and damaged tinal breakfast we made a successful descent, re- his ankle ; while we, to save ourself from a like gaining the habitable globe in good condition, and fall, stupidly grasped at a thorn bush, and lacewith none but pleasant memories of our advent-rated our hands. Condoling with each other, we urous night on High Peak.
hobbled along, one with his hand over his smartWe have less agreeable memories of our first ing eye, another seeking to straighten his dorsal acquaintance with Round Top, the neighboring latitudes, a third limping heavily, and we with summit, and next in elevation to the High Peak. our digits wrapped in a white cambric. To inWe had been assured that from the crest of the crease the pleasures of the day, we lost the path, Round Top we should be able, at least by climb- and after wandering hither and thither, very ing a tree, to see all creation.” But, alas! much befogged, finally emerged upon the turnwhen our destination was reached, our only re- pike, some miles further from our inn than the ward was the consciousness of duty discharged; 1 point at which we had left it. Here, after the for so thick were the forest leaves, that look fatigues of a night on High Peak, and of a day which way we would, our vision was every on the Round Top, we end our wanderings in where obstructed We knew that " all creation” | the Catskills. was—as we had been told-spread out beneath us, but that knowledge was merely a Tantalus THE HOLY WEEK AT ROME. cup, while creation was so effectually hidden
SECOND ARTICLE. from view. We recollected the supreme alterna- HE grand object of the Roman Catholic tive of “ climbing a tree ;". but then, too, we re- 1 Church in its observance of the Easter festimembered not only the ten miles which we had val, as stated by Bishop England, is “ to use the walked, but the other ten still to be trudged over most natural and efficacious mode of so exhibiting in returning ; and we felt ourselves much too fa- to a redeemed race the tragic occurrences of the tigued to venture upon any rash exploit. Our very catastrophe by which that redemption was feelings at that critical moment might be happily effectuated, as to produce deep impressions for their expressed by a slight parody of some lines in the religious improvement," and he hazards the folsoliloquy of Hamlet's uncle :
lowing observation, that “if the multiplication of “What then? what rests ? religious rites be superstition, then is the God of Try what the tree-tops can! What can they not ?" Sinai its most powerful abettor.” Acting upon And yet, what can they when one can not climb this view of the inspired Word, the Church of up. Here was a quandary! After lugging our Rome combines “music, scenery, action and selves and our sketch-boxes to “the height of poetry," with a grand melodrama to excite those this great argument,” not a glimpse could we get emotions in the minds of its disciples which it of all the marvelous beauties around us. Some- substitutes for religion, or to use the words of its thing, however, we were determined to draw, by expounder, “to bring the mind to any particular way of memento of the visit. As good luck frame,” so that “the effect is almost irresistible.” would have it, our eyes unanimously fell upon | There was a period doubtless in the history of the picturesque figure of our guide, old Uncle Christianity when certain religious transactions, Joe, as he gracefully reclined upon a moss-grown simply given in a pictorial manner, were not bank, filling the air with the perfumes of the without efficacy in arousing heathen minds to fragrant weed As he thus arrested our atten- inquiry and interest ; but multiplied and diverted tion, we thought-to use again the speech of the as they since have been from their original purDanish king—"all may yet be well!” Uncle poses, they are now presented to us more as a Joe was a doomed man--sacrificed upon the altar | theatrical resource to sustain and show off priestof the picturesque and of High Art. Enjoining craft than as illustrating the truths of the Bible. upon him the most statuesque quiet, we rapidly Yet I would not be understood as asserting that transferred his undying beauties to the spotless there are no hearts moved even in this age to a page ; one assailing him in the van ; a second clearer appreciation of the sublime doctrines which on his flank; while a third worried his rear; un- they are intended to illustrate, by these subtle til he soon fell a victim to black lead, and was appeals to the senses and imagination. Many a carried at the point of the pencil. Thus provided simple Romanist bows in adoring faith before with reminiscences of Round Top, we began the image or relic, and arises from his devotion jusdescent of the mountain a little more rapidly than tified before God, as was the poor publican in the we went up. While hurrying down the steep Temple who beat his breast and cried, “ Have merdeclivity, Uncle Joe, who led the file, overturned cy upon me a miserable sinner," while the skeptia hornet's nest; but the speed at which he was cal Pharisee, who thanked heaven that he was not
as other men, left with additional sin upon his their isolated brothers, the monks, the coming heart. The sin 'lies not with those who believe, spectacles are an event in their monotonous lives, but upon them who deceive those that “ hunger and they enter upon the work of preparation with and thirst after righteousness.” If the ceremo- all the zest of secular ambition, all striving to nies of the Roman Catholic Church, to which I exalt the object of their labors before God and shall allu le, are the “ bread of life," then is her man by the splendor of their work. Their degree skirt free from this great wickedness. But if, on of success promotes correspondingly the venerathe contrary, they confirm mankind in superstition, tion or enthusiasm of the people toward the parsubstituting evanescent emotion for practical ticular patron saint they thus delight to honor. piety, and shut the gates of heaven to all except Consequently upon the good works of their hands those who bow before their idols and leave their hangs, in no small part, the piety of their congregifts at her shrine, then indeed have the enlight- gations, for, as we have seen, their avowed object ened men, who have upheld and sanctioned al is to create a powerful impression upon the imsystem so much at variance with the simple pre-agination. The Holy Week comprises the procepts of the gospel and the example of its author, foundest griefs and the greatest joys of the Church incurred a weighty responsibility.
-comprising as it does the crucifixion and resurA fortnight before Easter the church edifices rection of the Saviour. All that human ingenuity are all put in mourning, the ornaments generally and expense can provide, to make apparent the removed, pictures vailed, and crosses clothed in one and give eclat to the other, is lavished upon violet in token of grief and penance. During the ceremonies of this festival. this period the greatest activity prevails in pre- Rome overflows with a gaping, wondering, parations for the coming solemnities. Each worshiping, or skeptical multitude. Whatever church seeks to distinguish itself above its may be the creed of each individual, or whether rivals by the splendor of its decorations, its of no creed at all, the entire mass come up to gaze pomp, music, lights, and all those outward ap- upon the show. Albano, Frascati, Tivoli, and all pliances to attract the eye, in which the Roman the neighboring towns pour in their picturesque people for upward of two thousand years have and handsome population by tens of thousands. been so curious and critical. All the communi-On a transalpine stranger no portion of this grand ties of sisters are as busy as so many hives of gala makes a more agreeable impression than the bees with the needle ; embroidery, sewing, plait- variety and beauty of the costumes and races ing, bleaching, or repairing the linen of the altar, about Rome. Slouched capped pilgrims, with the damasks and velvet hangings of the churches, staves, cockle shells, and scrips, are scarcer now and the robes of the priesthood. To them as to than a few centuries back, but enough are to be
seen to complete the romantic human variety | Friends of mine paid a dollar each for the use of which Rome calls from the four quarters of the chairs at a café until morning-a counter to sleep globe, to witness the pride of her abasement. upon was an unexpected luxury-some even are Every European country sends its representa- compelled to find quarters in towns ten or twelve tives, and even the republicans of America add miles from Rome. greatly to the throng.
A Roman shop-keeper or landlord is at all times Rome at no time has much to boast of in the a stolid, proud character, indifferent whether you extent and cleanliness of its accommodations. It buy, and careless whether you are accommodated. it is a city a century behind all other European The former at times is too lazy to take down his cápitals in every public convenience except good own wares for a purchaser; the latter does betwater, in which, a legacy from Imperial Rome, it ter, but both during Holy Week are sublimely eleis as far ahead of them, possessing fountains and vated above all personal exertions beyond raising aqueducts sufficient for the wants of a million their prices, to swell the stream of cash which is souls. The result is, that during Holy Week, sure to flow into them, like their own golden TiRome is crowded to an extent that Paris in its ber in a flood. Above all considerations of dirt, most brilliant fêtes never realized. Prices are punctuality, or even a sufficiency of food, the quadrupled. Indeed there is no limit to the de- traveler must take his meals at hotel or café as mand of a Roman where the necessity is press- he can get them. The table laid, there is a rush ing. Every hotel and apartment is erammed at of the first comers, who soon leave but a few cold prices which rival those of California when houses fragments for those whose intuition could not were scarcer than golden ingots. Alas for those tell them that the table-d'hôte of yesterday, at tardy ones who arrive but a few days before Palm the fixed hour of seven, was to-day at four. The Sunday! They are to be seen anxiously driving desperate mob at cafés is amusing. All the from hotel to hotel, and from apartment to apart- world being anxious to arrive at some solemn ment, imploring to be “taken in" on any terms, spectacle at the same moment, they all are equally paying for the carriage gold in lieu of silver, and anxious to breakfast in season. Pell-mell they at last content to mount some hundred steps, tumble into the cafés demanding coffee and toast grimed, one would suppose with the accumu- in a dozen languages in one breath, carrying one lated filth of centuries, to some dimly-lighted forcibly back to the first breakfast-scene after the back room, a few feet square, containing little polyglot confusion at the Tower of Babel. The else but an apology for a bed on which some two waiter slaps on the table an unwiped cup, and a or three are to take their slumbers at the rate of napkin that has seen a week's hard service. After ten dollars per night. Such is not a rare experi- waiting in an agony of impatience, for fear the ence. Others fare worse and pay less. Some Pope will bless the faithful and you be found not are compelled to pass the night in their carriages. | among them, and no coffee in sight, you angrily
again summon the waiter, who comes when hel Palm-Sunday, so called from Christ's triumphal can. To your emphatic remonstrance he replies, entry into Jerusalem, is the first grand day of the “What would you have, Sir? it is Holy Week:"— holy series. But preceding this there was forthe stereotyped answer to every species of annoy- merly a stately cavalcade, when popes and cardiance and extortion to which strangers are sub- nals were better riders than at present; but as it jected during this most unholy of periods, and with became necessary to tie some of the “ eminentiswhich they must be comforted, for none other simi," as the cardinals are called, on their steeds, will be vouchsafed.
on account of their defective horsemanship, and To all the principal sights of the Church there Pius VII., who succeeded the handsome Pius are reserved seats or positions, for which tickets VI., being an infirm man, the custom was are issued in the ratio of about five to one as to changed. Since then, when the procession passes accommodation. These are given to the several into the street, the huge papal state-coach is used, embassadors in proportion to the number of their in which the Pope follows the man carrying the applications, which of course greatly exceed the cross, mounted on a white mule, his Holiness the number of tickets they receive for distribution. meanwhile scattering his blessings over the crowd Hence arises another scramble for these permits by an incessant twirl of three fingers, reminding to witness the sacred mysteries within the privi- one of the favorite Italian game of “morra.” leged limits, Women are required to go in black This coach, notwithstanding its color, was the and veiled; men in a ball dress or "niform. By special object of hate to the Red Republicans in a strange anomaly, in all Catholic countries, the 1848, who would have destroyed it had they not sword has the preference of entry to all temples had more respect for a sacred doll called “the of the Prince of Peace. To return to the tick- most holy baby," to which it was given for its ets. A hapless week is the Holy Week for the daily airings. embassador or banker. He is besieged by notes, On Palm-Sunday the cardinals pay homage to flattery, interest, and every weapon, feminine and his Holiness on his throne, by going according masculine, to furnish the required billets of entry. to precedence and bowing three times before the How to gratify one, and not irritate five whom Pope-a bow for each member of the Trinityhe can not provide for, is a moral problem our | and then kissing the border of the cope which diplomatic Solons, and financial Rothschilds, are covers his right hand. The choir commences not always successful in solving. However, they with the Hosanna of the children, after which come do their best, and distribute the papal tickets, a appropriate prayers and chants. The Gospel findifferent color for each day, as far as they will go. ished, the second master of ceremonies gives ar
Vol. IX.-No. 50.–L
tificial palm-branches to the sacristan, deacon, of the Pope's choir is the best that Italy can proand subdeacon, who, kneeling before the pontiff, vide, and the procession, seen for the first tinie hold them up for his blessing. While the sign in St. Peter's in all its elaborate pageantry, is of the cross is made over them, a prayer is offered worth perhaps all the squeezing and wrangling that God will bless all those who will carry them for room which it occasions, to say nothing of with right sentiments.
the odors arising from an unwashed, uncombed, It would be impossible as well as unprofitable garlic-fed Roman peasantry. Vast as is St. Peto describe all the etiquette accompanying each ter's—so vast and massive that the same temreligious ceremony of the Holy Week. The pro- perature is maintained during summer and wingramme of the procession for Easter Sunday will ter—the smells arising from foul humanity overserve to show the variety and extent of the sa- power the fragrant fumes of the numberless cencred household, each member of which has not sers, and, for days after the great festivals, leave only his appropriate costume but his specific the church in a disagreeable condition. amount of kissing, homage, and genuflexions to One of the drollest sights of the Holy Week is perform, or to fulfill some petty duty expressly to see the Cardinal Grand Penitentiary from his created to give him something to do. No little throne dispensing absolution to the crowds that time, and not a few learned heads, are constantly flock to him. He alone can absolve in those employed to regulate the numberless questions cases which the Pope reserves to himself; beof duty and precedence, and all the nonsense of sides granting dispensation for contravention of bombastic etiquette that naturally find growth civil law, illegitimate births, vows, simony, and in so prolific a soil of folly and absurdity. Thus every sin or error, which, for cause good or bad, the Pope reads in broad daylight, by a lighted the Church takes upon herself to pardon. That candle, some sacred lesson which no one can pardon for every crime has its price is no fiction in hear.
the annals of Rome; not that the traffic in absoluThe cardinals again pay homage, as each re- tion is openly indulged or always abused, but that ceives a palm from the Pope, by kissing the hand it is in some cases openly avowed I know, and that gives it, the palm itself, and the right knee sermons preached proclaiming the detestable docof the holy father. After them, in the order of trine, and the price attached to the greatest crimes the procession, follow the different hierarchal against the law of God. Such an one was heard ranks down to the mitred abbots, who, with all by a friend of mine in Spain, in which the tariff that succeed them, kiss simply the pontiff's foot. was distinctly laid down. Good priests of every Last of all come the military and the foreigners persuasion will reprobate this evil; but the Church of distinction at Rome who are admitted to this of Rome, from which it sprung, still permits a honor, cach bearing away a palm. This, with practice so fruitful in profit to her treasury. The the acco: npanying service, takes up a great deal instances of absolution witnessed by myself bore of time, and is a very tiresome affair. The music l a very ludicrous aspect. A large crowd sur