BONNET, 1801.

the grand virtue under the new state of things. Hence in 1794 it was noticed that every fashionable citoyenne was either really or apparently far advanced in maternity.

The "Merveilleuse" of the same year, by the capacity of her bonnet and the slimness of her skirts, will recall a fashion which undoubtedly some of my readers thought "extremely elegant" in its day, but which would now be likely to consign its wearer to a mad-hospital.

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MERVEILLEUX," 1793. and transparent muslin. Besides, none but those whom nature had bountifully clothed with charms could with complacency thus dispense with dress. Coughs, rheumatisms, and ridicule, soon extinguished all classical ardor among these few, though many of the fashionable women of the day were willing to sacrifice both modesty and health in their desire to carry back the civilization of the world two thousand years, when silk Iwas worth its weight in gold and cotton an unknown thing. While the fashion lasted its want of adaptation to the climate gave rise to some ludicrous scenes. Thus at the famous "Feast of Pikes," when all Paris was gathered in the open air, a sudden storm of rain came down. The thin muslins with which the females had attired themselves "like the women of the free peoples of antiquity," were soaked through in a The attempt, under the auspices of David, to moment, and clung closely around their wearers, revive the classical toga, and to model the fash-so that, as the dry chronicler remarks, "the shape ions for the ladies after the costumes of Aspasia was clearly discernible." "Titus" and "Alcibiand Agrippina, met with but transient success, owing to the severity of the climate-which was particularly unfavorable to bare throats and legs,

The male specimen of this species was scarcely less remarkable in his choice of attire; while the "Agioteur"-a political bully, a blackguard, on a par in principles and practice with some of his kindred who disgrace our republic-wore a costume which, like the stripes of a hyena, distinguished him at once from the more respectable citizen.

ades" would have been more than human to have refrained from laughing at the spectacle presented by the bedraggled "Clorinda" and "Aspasia."

The coup de grace was given to the classical | wantoned in its own masquerade. The liberty fashion by the appearance of a favorite actress in the character of a Chinese girl. Her costume would hardly have been recognized in Pekin; but such as it was it struck the fancy of the town; and the Parisiennes loaded themselves with frills and ruffs, fancying that they were habited à la Chinoise.

of dressing as one pleased for once reigned triumphant. The Jacobins reveled in dirt and dishabille; the classical scholars in nude simplicity; the fops in perukes, powdered heads, three-cornered hats, and hair cut à la Titus; the ladies as simple country girls with bonnets à la butterfly; robes à la Cybèle; chemises à la Carthaginoise; in short, à la any thing their caprices or ingenuity could devise. Each one strove after originality; and a more extraordinary crowd than that of the streets and salons of Paris under the Consulate the world will never again see. It was fashion run crazy. The world of "ton" were more like the inmates of a mad-house than the rulers of society. Madame Tallien-the beauAt this epoch the confusion, or, more properly ty of the day-wore transparent costumes, in imspeaking, medley of fashions-in which every ex-itation of the Olympian gods. Her stockings treme and incongruity was represented-was at were flesh-colored and divided at the toes, on its height. Each taste and political sentiment which she carried rings and jewels. Her friend

The classical party were divided into Romans and Athenians, whose simplicity of attire gave rise to another sect in the world of fashion called "Incroyables." They protested against the invasion of antiquity by an opposite extreme in dress; so that, what between superfluity of coat collar, cravat, and hat, it was difficult to see that they had any head at all.

rival disputes her sway.

Josephine-afterward Empress-was her rival in | what it shall wear, and how it shall live. Not a fashion. Feminine whims did not stop even at this degree of immodesty, but went to such lengths as I shall not undertake to describe. Suffice it to say that dresses "à la sauvage" became in vogue; while the pictures and ornaments openly displayed would have scandalized even the Roman world, and been thought not quite "the thing" in Sodom.

I shall run hastily over the intervening space between that era and our own, depending mainly upon illustrations to show by what changes of cut, and gradations in taste, our present costumes have been formed; and how Paris-having for a while rioted in every species of extravagance that a depraved and licentious taste could conceive-has at last quietly and indisputably assumed the supreme rank in the world of fashion. From being the butt of mankind for her grossness of garments, she has become the arbiter of civilization as to

As the Revolution receded so luxury augmented. At the commencement of the present century dress had simplified wonderfully, and the worst features of previous absurdities had disappeared, although it would not be quite safe for man or woman to walk the streets in our day in the attire of that. The grand passion, after the Egyptian expedition, was for India shawls, pearls, diamonds, and lace of the highest price. Men rivaled women in their desires for these luxuries. The debts of Josephine for her toilet in a short time amounted to one million two hundred thousand francs. She had ordered thirty-eight new bonnets in one month; the feathers alone cost eighteen hundred francs. With such an example, the Court followed so rapidly in the path of extravagance that even Napoleon was scandalized, although he had said to his wife," Jose