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Josephine-afterward Empress—was her rival in what it shall wear, and how it shall live. Not a fashion. Feminine whims did not stop even at this rival disputes her sway. degree of immodesty, but went to such lengths As the Revolution receded so luxury augmentas I shall not undertake to describe. Suffice it ed. At the commencement of the present cento say that dresses à la sauvage" became in tury dress had simplified wonderfully, and the vogue; while the pictures and ornaments openly worst features of previous absurdities had disapdisplayed would have scandalized even the Ro-peared, although it would not be quite safe for man world, and been thought not quite “the man or woman to walk the streets in our day in thing” in Sodom.

the attire of that. The grand passion, after the I shall run hastily over the intervening space Egyptian expedition, was for India shawls, pearls, between that era and our own, depending mainly diamonds, and lace of the highest price. Men upon illustrations to show by what changes of cut, rivaled women in their desires for these luxuries. and gradations in taste, our present costumes have the debts of Josephine for her toilet in a short been formed; and how Paris—having for a while time amounted to one million two hundred thourioted in every species of extravagance that a de- sand francs. She had ordered thirty-eight new praved and licentious taste could conceive-has at bonnets in one month; the feathers alone cost last quietly and indisputably assumed the supreme eighteen hundred francs. With such an examrank in the world of fashion. From being the ple, the Court followed so rapidly in the path of butt of mankind for her grossness of garments, extravagance that even Napoleon was scandalshe has become the arbiter of civilization as to lized, although he had said to his wife, “ Jose

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LEG-OF-MUTTON SLEEVE, 1828. phine, I wish that you shall astonish by the beauty ed to take it into their own possession-a conand richness of your dress ;" following up the quest which, luckily for the influence of their precept with action one day, when she was not charms, they never wholly accomplished. He clad with sufficient elegance to satisfy him, by would be a benefactor to the human race who throwing the contents of his inkstand upon her could invent a suitable covering for the head, costly robe. Josephine owned one hundred and which should utterly annihilate the present source fifty cashmere shawls of remarkable beauty and of torture and ugliness which surmounts the front great price. She offered Madame Murat for one of him made in the image of God. that pleased her fourteen thousand francs.

In 1812, the leg-of-mutton sleeve, which deJudging from the past, nothing admits of greater scended in its full amplitude to the present genvariety of form than the modern bonnet ; while eration, was in full vogue; also low necks and its rival—the male hat-is restricted to the slight backs, which have ever maintained their popularest possible variation of its pipe shape. Noro, ity, by a strange sort of anomaly, as full dress; the fashionable ladies wear their bonnets merely while short petticoats—which are so convenient suspended from the back of their heads, like the-have been lengthened into untidy skirts that outer leaf of an opening rose-bud. Then-in save the street-cleaners half their trouble. 1801—they overhung the forehead much after I have brought together, in one tableau, the the manner of a candle extinguisher.

| four principal types of dress that have swayed In 1812, the modern hat had assumed the gen- the fashionable world for the past century. The eral shape which it has unfortunately ever since striking changes therein depicted are indicative retained, and with which it seems likely to make of what we may look for in the future. With so the tour of the globe. The ladies have at times plastic a many-colored material as dress, there made various assaults upon it, and even attempt can be no limits to the varieties of costume.

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THE brilliant impression that General Taylor | seemed to conspire to make the event captivating

I made upon the imagination of the people and essentially dramatic. of the Union by his victories of the “8th and 9th In addition, General Taylor himself, more than of May,” has not yet been effaced. There was any other of his contemporaries, possessed the all the art of a splendid play accompanying the qualities of a popular hero: he was a soldier, but events; there was the mystery that enshrouded he was in his personal habits essentially a citizen; his forgotten camp at Corpus Christi, his self-sac- in the storm and hurricane of battle his eagle eye rificing march to the Nueces, his call to the peo- anticipated the triumph-in his tent he was as ple of the country for assistance, the painful ru- simple as a child—surrounded by the pomp and mors that " he had been cut off by the enemy," circumstance of war, he lived amidst the excitethe dark cloud of deep regret that followed, to ment as a father among his children In recalling be suddenly dissipated by the announcement of his person there are no plumes, no epaulets, no battles won, which will ever hold rank among the clanging of arms conjured up; on the contrary, brightest achievements of our victorious arms. there is simply seen a brave, chivalrous old man, Such again were the preliminaries that ushered a vivid personation of republican character, one in the triumph of Buena Vista. Every thing that all feel proud to call eminently American.

Springing as General Taylor did into popular thoughts and actions occurring in the lives of the favor with all the perfection and unexpectedness “ early Presidents" and statesmen ; and he invaof another Minerva from the brain of Jove, he riably, if necessary, gave his own opinions of what was hurried in such rapid succession from one he related with the utmost frankness. His detriumph to another, and closed his mortal career scriptive powers were of the highest order; and so unexpectedly in death, that the people never his private correspondence, though dwelling upon learned much of his private life; and that biogra- the most familiar subjects, has kindred excelphy, always so interesting and so instructive, if lences with his official papers. A private letter preserved of the truly great, is probably destined written by General Taylor, partially on the day to be lost in oblivion.

before, and concluded on the day following the With the military services of General Taylor Battle of Buena Vista, and now in the possession the world is familiar; we would allude, in con- of an eminent private citizen of Louisiana, connection with a notice of his residence, only to tains passages more eloquent and of more graphic some of his characteristics in private life. Sol-clearness, if possible, than even the official disdier as he was, his great passion seemed to be patches that announced this greatest of his milithe pursuit of agriculture, and there was no time tary victories. in his whole history when he did not have his A peculiarity of General Taylor's social habits farm, upon the management of which he ex- deserves particular notice, and may with propripended much of his thoughts. The first time we ety be mentioned here. Throughout his whole ever saw the “old Colonel”-as he was then life he confined himself to pure water as a bevercalled-was on his plantation, directing the la- age. Upon the necessity of temperance he often bors of some forty or fifty “hands," and the zealdwelt, and gave it as his experience that, throughbe displayed was quite equal to his manner in out his long life, he had seldom known an officer the more stirring scenes of his military life. or soldier, or any one else attached to the army, Brought up upon a farm, he retained all the the- to get into difficulty, be cashiered or disgraced, oretical knowledge of the most practical agricul- that the primary causes could not be directly turist; and from his “head-quarters,” whether traced to indulgence in ardent spirits. Soon in Baton Rouge, Florida, or Mexico, he most fre- / after his return from Mexico, he dined with a quently sent his specific directions to his busi- hospitable planter, who insisted upon his trying ness agent as to the details of conducting his his superior wine. General Taylor tasted the estate; and he would at any time drop all other | Madeira, and instantly followed it by a draught subjects of conversation to go into the details of of ice-water, and recovering himself remarked, raising wheat or cotton, and grow unusually ani- " That he really was no judge of wine.” The mated in discussing the value of different kinds first steam-ship that arrived at the Brazos, after of plows. In July, 1848, he wrote as follows: the surrender of Matamoras, brought out from “The subject of farming is one to which I have New Orleans, as presents, fine brandies, clarets, devoted much of my life, and in which I yet con- and ice. General Taylor ordered the whole to tinue to take the deepest interest." Nor could be carried to the hospitals to be distributed among he forget his farmer habits even in times of act- the wounded and sick, so little did he care for ual war; for it was his wont in Mexico, while the commonly considered luxuries of life. accidentally passing a train, to criticise any inn- On one occasion General Taylor said, “For propriety in the adjustment of the harness, or more than a quarter of a century my house has evident negligence in the care of the wagons; been a tent, my home in the field.” Such was and probably one of his greatest pleasures arose literally true; yet the old soldier had meanwhile from witnessing the military precision which dis- his residence, where lived his family, where centinguishes the army in the preservation of its tered his affections, where occasionally he stole materiel. Originally, in common with many of from the duties of the camp a few moments of the older officers and Indian fighters, prejudiced domestic repose. A view of that interesting spot, · against the artillery, we can readily imagine that by the genius of Daguerre and the graver's art, his repugnance was somewhat modified by the is now preserved to the world, and for the first magnificent manner with which Ridgely and Dun- time made a heritage to all who remember with can brought it upon the field in their afternoon pleasure the old hero it occasionally sheltered, and displays; for it was not until it swept the serried who has given it an immortal interest by his virranks of the enemy under his own eye, that he tues and exalted career. cordially embraced the artillery as the most effi- It is natural to the reverential mind to take a cient as well as the most brilliant arm of the sad pleasure in visiting the identified homes of service.

the great dead. These residences recall vividly The leisure that hangs so heavily upon the forgotten associations, and afford useful lessons hands of the soldier in times of peace, was con- for the living ; but there is so much about Montstantly occupied by General Taylor with the study | pelier, Monticello, and Mount Vernon that shocks of books; and no one could be much in his soci- the sensibilities of the admirers of departed greatety without being struck, not only with the great ness, that it may be deemed fortunate that at least variety of his reading, but also by the happy ap- one of our "hero Presidents" has left no mansion plication he made of his acquired knowledge. He to go to decay from a nation's neglect, no tomb was particularly successful in relating illustrative upon the current of fashionable travel, to be gazed anecdotes, and took pleasure in detailing the at by the curious tourist, and left each year an


increasingly sad memento of the proverbial in the sward. The thousands who visited General gratitude of Republics.

Wer Taylor will recognize the life-like representation, Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, one They will remember the ample gallery upon which hundred and twenty miles above New Orleans, is he received his visitors, the rustic gate through situated upon the first bluff that is to be met with which they entered, to be followed by the hearty on the Mississippi, ascending from its mouth. It salutation so characteristic of the awaiting host. is on a natural elevation, some forty feet above On the morning of the 23d of January, 1849, the highest annual rise, and suggests to the least General Taylor took his formal leave of the citiexperienced in military science a commanding zens of Baton Rouge, preparatory to his journey place for defense. It was here that the Spaniards to Washington. On that occasion he said, "Genin early times erected a fortification, and it was tlemen, I assure you it is with feelings of no one of the last places held by them of their once ordinary character that I meet with my fellowextensive possessions, then known as Florida. citizens on this occasion, many of whom I have

Upon the absorption of Baton Rouge and the known for more than a quarter of a century. Had surrounding country by the Americans, extensive I consulted my own wishes, I should have much buildings were erected as a garrison for troops, preferred to retain the office I am now about to and others for the depository of ammunition and vacate, and have remained among you;" and there arms, within the grounds belonging to the Span-can not be a doubt that, while surrounded by the ish fort. These stations and dépôts were for many political corruptions of the national capital, the years the most important upon our southern fron-quiet home he had left behind him often rose to tiers; but, by the annexation of Texas, they have his mind, as a haven where he could find that become so far in the interior" as to cease to peace and that enjoyment never accorded to the be much used, save as magazines for military Chief Magistrate of a great nation. stores.

The mortal remains of General Taylor repose Directly upon the banks, and near some still in the old family burying-ground of his father. visible ruins of the old Spanish fort, was a small It is one of the simplest and least ostentatious of cottage-built house, originally inhabited by the all the plantation graveyards in Kentucky. To proud Castilian Commandant. It is said to have reach it, you have a solitary walk until, coming to been quite a sumptuous building at the time of a rude inclosure in an open field, you behold a its erection, although now it sinks into humble plain vault, the front composed of roughly hewn obscurity when compared with the least preten- limestone rocks; and this is all that indicates the tious private residences in its vicinity. This mo- resting-place of one of the deceased Presidents dest building contained but three large rooms, to of the United States. No monument has been which were added, in course of time, a surround- erected to his memory, and his name is not even ing veranda, and some outbuildings devoted to inscribed upon the vault. domestic purposes. Here Colonel Taylor, when ordered to take a command in the army South,

he army South. WHOM SHALL WE MARRY? refusing the more ostentatious quarters of the HE Americans, of all people in the world, are garrison," established himself, and here the mem- 1 the most connubially inclined. We have litbers of his family resided, more or less, for the tle doubt that if the Christian religion inculcated quarter of a century that preceded his translation polygamy, our piety in this particular would rival to the White House."

that of Solomon and David, and not be outdone Such is the history of what will always be by the lord of the harem, the youthful Abdul known as General Taylor's residence. At the Medjid, Sultan of Turkey, or by our fellow-cititime of the Presidential contest," the thousands zen, His Excellency Brigham Young, Governor who traveled upon the great highway of the South of the Territory of Utah. Unlike most of the and West, the Mississippi, were accustomed to Turks, who, satisfied with the Mohammedan prixstop their steamers in front of this humble-look-ilege of a plurality of wives, content themselves ing house, and make the welkin ring with exult- with the Christian practice of one, we would probing cheers; and nothing could exceed the en-ably fulfill the law to the greatest numerical exthusiasm when "old Whitey,” grazing in his tent, and shame, by our willing obedience, the retirement, would start at the enlivening sounds, reserve of the recreant Moslem. The juvenile and sweep along the bluff in graceful movements, jacket has hardly lengthened into the manly coat, as if cordially acknowledging the honors paid to and the down of a nascent beard has cast but the his master.

faintest shadow of the coming event of a mustache A few years more and “General Taylor's res- upon the youthful face, when young America idence" will have disappeared. Long ago it was asks,“ Whom shall we marry?” Our adolescent, “officially” condemned as worthless, and we know now lusty with youthful vigor, and ardent with of no circumstances, “ even if our army possessed the unabated passion of love, stretches out his another economic soldier,” which would cause “marriageable arms" to embrace some sympathetic him to be stationed at Baton Rouge, providential beauty, and slake his eager thirst in matrimony, ly as it were, to retard for a few years more the "Perpetual fountain of domestic sweets." hand of destiny. The engraving presents a faith-/ If the connubially disposed be rich, his purse ful picture of the old house, of the old soldier as heavy, however light of head or heart, he finds no he appeared after his return from Mexico, and want of opportunity for investment. His mere of his two war horses grazing contentedly upon presence in the market is sure to attract to him a

Vol. IX.-No. 54.-30

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