feristân. It is a sort of sequestered corner. Grapes and fruits are extremely abun- 5 2 Penjhîr is another Tumân. It lies upon the road, and is in the immediate vicinity Penjhir. of Kaferistân. The thoroughfare and inroads of the robbers of Kaferistân are through Penjhîr. In consequence of their vicinity to the Kafers, the inhabitants of this district are happy to pay them a fixed contribution. Since I last invaded Hindustân, and subdued it, the Kafers have descended into Panjhîr, and returned, after slaying a great number of people, and committing extensive ravages. There is another Tumân, named Ghûrbend." In this country they call a steep hill- Ghurbend. pass bend; and as they cross over to Ghûr by this pass, the district, from that circumstance, has acquired the name of Ghûrbend. The Hazaras have got possession of the 1 The Jilgûzeh, as has already been remarked, is a kind of pine, which has cones larger than artichokes, containing seeds resembling pistachio nuts. 2 The hill-chikôr. 3 A similar story is told of some fields near Whitby :-" These wild geese, which, in the winter fly in great flocks to the lakes and rivers unfrozen in the southern parts, to the great amazement of every one, fall suddenly down upon the ground, when they are in their flight over certain neighbouring fields thereabouts; a relation I should not have made, if I had not received it from several credible men."See Notes to Marmion, p. xlvi. • Are we entitled to infer from this, that the musk-rat was not so common in Hindustân in the age of Baber as it has since become. Baber was not a careless observer. Penjhîr, now always called Panjshîr, lies on the upper part of the Panjshîr river, above Perwan, nearly north of Kabul. • Ghûrbend lies north-west of Kâbul; its river runs into the Bârân. tops of its valleys. It contains a few villages, but yields little revenue. It is said, that on the mountains of Ghûrbend there are mines of silver and of lapis-lazuli. On the skirts of the hills there are some districts; in the upper part are Mîteh, Kacheh, and Perwân; and lower down are twelve or thirteen villages. All of them abound in fruits, and their wines come from this tract; the strongest wine comes from KhwâjehKhân-Saîd. As all these villages lie on the skirts of the mountain, or on the mountain itself, although they pay something as revenue, yet they are not regularly rated in the revenue rolls. Lower down than these villages, along the skirts of the mountains, and between them and the river Bârân, lie two detached spots of level ground; the one called the Gireh-e-Tazian, the other the Desht-e-Sheikh. In the warm season they are covered with the chekin-taleh grass in a very beautiful manner, and the Aimâks and Türks resort to them. In the skirts of these mountains the ground is richly diversified by various kinds of tulips. I once directed them to be counted, and they brought in thirty-two or thirty-three different sorts of tulips. There is one species which has a scent in some degree like the rose, and which I termed laleh-gul-bûi (the rose-scented tulip). This species is found only in the Desht-e-Sheikh (the Sheikh's plain), in a small spot of ground, and nowhere else. In the skirts of the same hills, below Perwân, is produced the laleh-sed-berg2 (or hundred-leaved tulip), which is likewise found only in one narrow spot of ground, as we emerge from the straits of Ghûrbend. Between these two plains there is a small hill, on which there is a line of sandy ground, reaching from the top to the bottom of the hill. They called it Khwâjeh-regrewan.3 They say that in the summer season the sound of drums and nagarets issues from this sand. 4 There are a number of other districts belonging to Kâbul. On the south-west of Kâbul, is a high snowy mountain, on which the snow of one year generally falls on the snow of another. It happens very rarely that the old snow has disappeared before the new falls. When the ice-houses of Kâbul are exhausted, they fetch ice from this mountain to cool their water. It is three farsangs' from Kâbul. This hill and that of Bâmiân are both exceedingly lofty. The Hirmend, the Sind, the Doghabeh of Kundez, and the river of Balkh, all take their rise in this mountain; and it is said, that in the same day a person may drink from the streams of all these four rivers. The districts which I mentioned are chiefly on the skirts of this mountain. Their gardens are numerous, and their grapes, as well as every other kind of fruit, abundant. Among these villages there are none to be compared with Istâlif and Isterghâch,' which were term2 This is the double poppy. 1 The Arab's encampment, and the Sheikh's plain. 3 i. e. Khwajeh moving-sand. 4 By this high snowy mountain, Baber evidently means the Kohi Baba, which, by an inaccuracy in the points of the compass not unusual with him, he places S.W. of Kabul, instead of N. W. The Helmend and river of Kâbul both rise there. The river of Balkh rises in the N.W. of the same mountain. The river of Eibak, and the Sûrkhrûd, which descends by Kundez, rise at no great distance. 5 Twelve miles. 6 The Hirmend, Helmand, or Helbend, which rises to the west of the mountains not far from Kabul, after passing Girisk, falls into the lake of Sistân; the Sind, I presume, is the Kâbul or the Gharbend river, which finally falls into the Sind. The other two fall into the Amu, or Jeihun, which discharges itself into the sea of Aral. 7 These districts lie on the river of Karabagh, ghach is now termed Sirghach by the Afghans. north-west of Kabul. It falls into the Baran. IsterPemgham is called Peghman. ed by Ulugh Beg Mirza, Khorasân and Samarkand. Pemghân is also within the range of these districts; and though it cannot be compared with those just mentioned, in respect to grapes and fruits, is beyond all comparison superior to them in respect to cli. mate. The mountain of Pemghân' always keeps its snow. Few quarters possess a district that can rival Istâlîf. A large river runs through it, and on either side of it are gardens, green, gay, and beautiful. Its water is so cold, that there is no need of icing it; and it is particularly pure. In this district is a garden, called Bagh-e-Kilân (or the Great Garden), which Ulugh Beg Mirza2 seized upon. I paid the price of the garden to the proprietors, and received from them a grant of it. On the outside of the garden are large and beautiful spreading plane-trees, under the shade of which there are agreeable spots finely sheltered. A perennial stream, large enough to turn a mill, runs through the garden; and on its banks are planted planes and other trees. Formerly this stream flowed in a winding and crooked course, but I ordered its course to be altered according to a regular plan, which added greatly to the beauty of the place. Lower down than these villages, and about a kos or a kos and a half above the level plain, on the lower skirts of the hills, is a fountain, named Khwâjeh-seh-yârân (Khwâjeh three-friends), around which there are three species of trees; above the fountain are many beautiful plane-trees, which yield a pleasant shade. On the two sides of the fountain, on small eminences at the bottom of the hills, there are a number of oak-trees; 3 except on these two spots where there are groves of oak, there is not an oak to be met with on the hills to the west of Kâbul. In front of this fountain, towards the plain, there are many spots, covered with the flowery Arghwân' tree, and besides these Arghwân plots, there are none else in the whole country. It is said that these three kinds of trees were bestowed on it by the power of these three holy men, beloved of God; and that this is the origin of the name Seyârân." I directed this fountain to be built round with stone, and formed a cistern of lime and mortar ten gez by ten. On the four sides of the fountain, a fine level platform for resting, was constructed on a very neat plan. At the time when the Arghwân flowers begin to blow, I do not know that any place in the world is to be compared to it. The yellow Arghwân is here very abundant, and the yellow Arghwân's blossom mingles with the red. On the south-west of this fountain there is a valley, in which is a rivulet, containing half as much water as would suffice to turn a mill. This rivulet I confined within artificial banks, and caused a channel to be dug for it over one of the heights on the south-west of Seyârân. On the top of this height I formed a circular platform for sitting on. The date of my forming this rivulet was found in the words, Jûi Khûsh' (a charming stream). 1 The four tippahs, or districts, now dependant on Kâbul, are Pemghân, or Peghmân, Kohdâmen, Bûtkhâk, and Logar. 3 Belût. 2 This Ulugh Beg Mirza was the paternal uncle of Baber. * The name Arghwân is generally applied to the anemone; but in Afghanistân it is given to a beautiful flowering shrub, which grows nearly the size of a tree. Three Friends. A note on the margin of Mr Elphinstone's Turki copy informs us, that these three friends were Khwâjeh Moudud-e-Chesti, Khawâjeh Khâwend Said, and Khwâjeh Rag-rewân. Upwards of twenty feet square. 7 The numerical letters of these words give 925. T Logar. Ghazni. Lohuger1 is another Tumân, the largest town of which is Cherkh. Moulâna Yâkub,2 on whom be mercy, was of Cherkh; the Mûlla-zâdeh Mulla Osman is also from Cherkh. Sejâwend3 is also one of the towns of Lohuger, whence are Khwâjeh Ahmed and Khwâjeh Yunis. Cherkh has numerous gardens, but there are none in any of the other villages of Lohuger. The men are Aughân-Shál, a term well known in Kâbul; it is probable, that the phrase Afghûn-Shaar (or Afghanlike) has been converted into Aughân-Shâl. There is also the country of Ghazni,1 which is often denominated a Tumân. Ghazni was the capital of Subaktegîn, of Sultan Mahmûd, and of the dynasty sprung from them. Many call it Ghaznein. This was also the capital of Shehâb-ed-dîn Ghuri, who, in the Tabkât-e-Nâseri, and many of the histories of Hind, is called Moezzeddîn. It is situated in the third climate. It is also named Zabul, and it is to this country that the term Zâbulistân relates; many include Kandahâr in Zâbulistân. It lies to the west of Kâbul, 5 at the distance of fourteen farsangs. A person setting out from Ghazni at early dawn, may reach Kâbul between noonday and afternoon prayers. Adînapûr is only thirteen farsangs7 distant; but, from the badness of the road, it is never travelled in one day. Ghazni is a country of small extent. Its river may be · large enough to drive four or five mills. The city of Ghazni, and four or or five other districts, are supplied from this river, while as many more are fertilized by subterraneous' water-courses. The grapes of Ghazni are superior to those of Kâbul, and its melons more abundant. Its apples too are excellent, and are carried into Hindostân. Cultivation is carried on with great difficulty and labour, and whatever ground is cultivated is obliged to have a new dressing of mould every year; but the produce of the crops exceeds that of Kâbul. The madder is chiefly cultivated here, and is carried over all Hindostân. It is the most profitable crop in this district. The inhabitants of the open country are Hazâras and Afghâns. Ghazni is a cheap place compared with Kâbul, The inhabitants are Moslems of the sect of Hânifah, and orthodox in their faith. Many of them fast for three months 10 in the year, and their wives and children live in a correct and sequestered manner. Mûlla Abdul Rahman was one of the eminent men of Ghazni. He was a man of learning, and always taught a class. He was a holy, pious, and virtuous person. He took his departure from this world the same year with Nâsir Mirza. The tomb of Sultan Mahmûd is in one of the suburbs of Ghazni, which, from that circumstance, is termed Rozeh.11 The best grapes in Ghazni are from Rozeh. The tombs of his descendants, Sulten Mâsaûd and Sultan Ibrâhim, are in Ghazni. There are many holy tombs at that city. In the year 1 Lohgar, or Loger, is situated S.E. from Kâbul about seventeen miles. 2 Now called Cherkh Beraki. 3 Sejâwan lies between Cherkh and Speiga. * This country is famous in history as the seat of government of Sultan Mahmûd Ghaznevi, and of the Ghaznevi dynasty. 5 Ghazni is rather south than west of Kâbul. Fifty-six miles. 7 Fifty-two miles. 8 The river of Ghazni runs north to Lohger, and joins the Kâbul river. Kârîz. 10 Some very pious Musulmans fast all the months of Rejeb, Shabân, and Ramzân. The Muhammedan The night is often given to feasting. fasts only by day. 11 The garden. The tombs of the more eminent Musulmans are generally in gardens, and surrounded by elegant parterres. in which I took Kâbul, after ravaging Kohat, the plain of Bânu, and Afghanistân with great slaughter, I proceeded by Duki, and having come on to Ghazni, along the banks of Ab-istâdeh,' I was told, that in one of the villages of Ghazni, there was a mausoleum, in which the tomb moved itself whenever the benediction on the Prophet was pronounced over it. I went and viewed it, and there certainly seemed to be a motion of the tomb. In the end, however, I discovered that the whole was an imposture, practised by the attendants of the mausoleum. They had erected over the tomb a kind of scaffolding; contrived that it could be set in motion when any of them stood upon it, so that a looker-on imagined that it was the tomb that had moved; just as to a person sailing in a boat, it is the bank which appears to be in motion. I directed the persons who attended the tomb to come down from the scaffolding; after which, let them pronounce as many benedictions as they would, no motion whatever took place. I ordered the scaffolding to be removed, and a dome to be erected over the tomb, and strictly enjoined the servants of the tomb not to dare to repeat this imposture. Ghazni is but a poor, mean place, and I have always wondered how its princes, who possessed also Hindustân and Khorasân, could have chosen such a wretched country for the seat of their government, in preference to Khorasân. In the time of the Sultan, there were three or four mounds for collecting water. One of these, which is of great dimensions, was formed by the Sultan of Ghazni, on the river of Ghazni, about three farsangs up the river, on the north-west of the town. The height of this mound is about forty or fifty gez,3 and its length may be about three hundred gez. The water is here collected, and drawn off according as it is wanted for cultivation. Alâeddîn Jehânsôz Ghuri, when he subdued this country, broke down the mound, burned and destroyed many of the tombs of the royal family of the Sultan, ruined and burned the city of Ghazni, and plundered and massacred the inhabitants. In short, there was no act of desolation and destruction from which he refrained. Ever since that time, the mound had remained in a state of ruin. In the year in which I conquered Hindustân, I sent by Khwâjeh Kilân a sum of money for the purpose of rebuilding it, and I entertain hopes that, by the mercy of God, this mound may once more be repaired. Another mound is that of Sakhen, which lies to the east of Ghazni at the distance of three or four farsangs7 from that city. This also has long been in a state of ruin, and is not reparable. Another mound is that of Sirdeh," which is in good repair. Some books mention, that in Ghazni there is a fountain, into which, if any filth or ordure be thrown, immediately there rises a tempest and 1 Ab-istàdeh, a lake south from Ghazni. 2 In the East, where the success of cultivation depends chiefly on the supply of water, it is usual to dam up the bottoms of narrow valleys, or of low meadows, so as to collect all the water into one body, whence it is afterwards distributed for the supply of the country below. These artificial lakes in India are sometimes several miles in circumference, and are perhaps the most useful works in the country. 3 Eighty, or a hundred feet. 4 Six hundred feet. Jehânsôz, the burner or desolator of the world. He is said to have got this name from his horrible massacre at Ghazni. |