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apartments are four Shahneshîns, or royal balconies. Every part of this hall is covered with paintings. Though Baber Mirza1 built this palace, the paintings were executed by orders of Sultan Abusaîd Mirza, and represent his battles and wars. In the north end of the northern balcony, two carpets were placed facing each other. On one of them Mozeffer Mirza and I sat, on the other sat Sultan Masaûd Mirza and Jehangîr Mirza. As we were guests at Mozeffer Mirza's house, Mozeffer Mirza placed me above himself, and having filled up a glass of welcome, the cupbearers in waiting began to supply all who were of the party with pure wine, which they quaffed as if it had been the water of life. The party waxed warm, and the spirit mounted up to their heads. They took a fancy to make me drink too, and bring me into the same Baber's circle with themselves. Although, till that time, I had never been guilty of drinking drink wine. wine,3 and from never having fallen into the practice, was ignorant of the sensations it produced, yet I had a strong lurking inclination to wander in this desert, and my heart was much disposed to pass the stream. In my boyhood I had no wish for it, and did not know its pleasures or pains. When my father at any time asked me to drink wine, I excused myself, and abstained. After my father's death, by the guardian care of Khwâjeh Kazi, I remained pure and undefiled. I abstained even from forbidden foods; how then was I likely to indulge in wine? Afterwards when, from the force of youthful imagination and constitutional impulse, I got a desire for wine, I had nobody about my person to invite me to gratify my wishes; nay, there was not one who even suspected my secret longing for it. Though I had the appetite, therefore, it was difficult for me, unsolicited as I was, to indulge such unlawful desires. It now came into my head, that as they urged me so much, and as, besides, I had come into a refined city like Heri, in which every means of heightening pleasure and gaiety was possessed in perfection; in which all the incentives and apparatus of enjoyment were combined with an invitation to indulgence, if I did not seize the present moment, I never could expect such another. I therefore resolved to drink wine. But it struck me, that as Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza was the eldest brother, and as I had declined receiving it from his hand, and in his house, he might now take offence. I therefore mentioned this difficulty which had occurred to me. My excuse was approved of, and I was not pressed any more, at this party, to drink. It was settled, however, that the next time we met at Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza's, I should drink when pressed by the two Mirzas. At this party, among the musicians, was Hâfez Haji; Jelâl-ed-dîn Mahmûd, the flute-player, was also there, and the younger brother of Gholâm Shadi, Shadi Becheh, who played on the harp. Hâfez Hâji sung well. The people of Heri sing in a low, delicate, and equable style. There was a singer of Jehangîr Mirza's present, by name Mîr Jân, a native of Samarkand, who always sang in a loud, harsh voice, and out of tune. Jehangir Mirza, who was far gone, proposed that he should sing. He

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1 The grandson of Shahrokh, and nephew of Ulugh Beg Mirza, the King of Samarkand. Abusaid Mirza held Khorasân for some time after the death of the first Baber Mirza.

2 Toshak.

3 It need hardly be remarked, that the drinking of wine is contrary to the Muhammedan law. That is, I had a great inclination to offend in this respect.

Cheng.

Badia-cz

zemân's en

sang accordingly, but in a dreadfully loud, rough, disagreeable tone. The people of Khorasận value themselves on their politeness; many, however, turned away their ears, others knit their brows, but, out of respect to the Mirza, nobody ventured to stop him. After the time of evening prayers, we went from the Terebkhâna to the new Winter-palace,' which Mozeffer Mirza had built. By the time we reached it, Yûsef Ali Gokultâsh, being extremely drunk, rose and danced. He was a musical man, and danced well. After reaching this palace, the party got very merry and friendly. Mozeffer Mirza gave me a sword and belt, a corslet, and a whitish Tipchâk horse. In this palace Jânik sang a Tûrki song. Mozeffer Mirza had two slaves, called Kittermah and Kechekmah. During the party, and while the company was hot with wine, they performed some indecent, scurvy tricks. The party was kept up late, and did not separate till an untimely hour. I remained that night in the palace where I was.

Kâsim Beg, on hearing what had passed as to urging me to take wine, sent to re tertainment. monstrate on the subject with Zûlnûn Beg, who took the Mirzas to task, and reprimanded them most severely, so that they wholly laid aside any idea of urging me farther to drink. Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza, having heard of Mozeffer's entertainment to me, made a party in the Bagh-Jehân-ârâ, in the Makevi-khâna, and invited me. Many of my young nobles and retinue were likewise invited. My courtiers could not drink wine, out of respect to me. If they were desirous of indulging at any time, perhaps once in a month, or forty days, they used to shut their doors, and sit down to drink, in the greatest alarm, lest they should be discovered. Such were the men who were now invited. On the present occasion, when by any chance they found me not attending, they would hide their goblet with their hands, and take a draught in great dread; although such precautions were altogether unnecessary, as, at a party, I allowed my people to follow the common usages, and this party I regarded as one given by my father, or elder brother. They brought in branching willow trees. I do not know if they were in the natural state of the tree, or if the branches were formed artificially, but they had small twigs cut the length of the ears of a bow, and inserted between them, so that they had a very fanciful appearance. In the course of the party, a roast goose was put down before me. As I was ignorant of the mode of cutting it up, or carving it, I let it alone, and did not touch it. Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza asked me if I did not like it. I told him frankly that I did not know how to carve it. The Mirza immediately cut up the goose, and, dividing it into small bits, placed it again before me. Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza was unequalled in such kind of attentions. Towards the close of the party, he presented me with a rich enamelled dagger, a charkob, or kerchief of cloth of gold, and a Tipchâk horse.

Baber visits

During the twenty days that I staid in Heri, I every day rode out to visit some new the public place that I had not seen before. My guide and providetor in these visits was Yûsef Ali Gokultâsh, who always got ready a sort of collation, in some suitable place where

buildings at

Heri.

1 Khaneh Kishlaki-Noui.

2 The Orientals generally have their meat dressed and brought to table, ready cut up into small pieces.

we stopped. In the course of these twenty days, I saw perhaps everything worthy of notice, except the Khanekah (or convent) of Sultan Hussain Mirza. I saw the Bleaching-ground,' the garden of Ali Shîr Beg, the Paper-mills, the Takht-Astâneh (or Royal Throne); the bridge of Kâh; the Keh-destân; the Bagh-e-Nezer-gâh ; the Niamet-âbâd; the Khiâban, or public pleasure-walks at the Bleaching-ground;" the Khatîrat of Sultan Ahmed Mirza; the Takht-e-Sefer (or Sefer-Palace); the Takht-e-Nawâi; the Takht-e-Barkîr; the Takht-e-Haji Beg; and the Takhts of Sheikh Behâeddîn Umer, and Sheikh Zeineddin; the mausoleum and tomb of Moulâna Abdal-rahman Jâmi; the Namâzgah-e-Mûkhtar; the Fish-pond; the Sâk-e-Sulemân; Balweri, which was originally called Abul Walid; the Imâm Fakhr; the Bagh-e-Khiâbân; the Colleges and Tombs of the Mirza; the College of Guher-shâdbegum, her Tomb, and her Grand Mosque; the Bagh-e-Zâghân (or Raven-Garden); the Bagh-e-nou (or New Garden); the Bagh-e-Zobeideh, or Zobeideh's Garden; the Akserai (or White Palace), built by Sultan Abusaîd Mirza, which is situated close by the Irâk-Gate; Pûrân' and Sûfeh-e-Sirendâzân (the Warrior's Seat); Chirgh Alânik and Mîr Wahid; the Bridge of Mâlân; the Khwâjeh-Tâk (Khwâjeh's Porch), and Bagh-e-Sefid (White Garden); the Tereb-khâna (Pleasure-House); the Baghe-Jehân-ârâ; the Kioshk and Makevi-Khaneh (or Mansion of Enjoyment); the Sosni-Khana (or Lily-palace); the Doâzdeh-Bûrj, or Twelve Towers; the Great Reservoir, on the north of the Jehân-ârâ; the four edifices on its four sides; the five gates of the town walls, the King's Gate, the Irâk Gate, the Pirozâbâd Gate, the Khush Gate, and the Kipchâk Gate; the King's-bazar; the Chârsû (or great Public Market); the College of Sheikh-ul-Islâm; the Grand Mosque of the Kings; the Baghe-Sheher (or City Garden); the College of Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza, which is built on the banks of the river Anjîl; Ali Shîr Beg's dwelling-house, which they call Unsîa (or the Palace of Ease); his Tomb and Great Mosque, which they call Kadasîa (or the Holy); his College and Khankah (or Convent), which they call Khalasîa and Akhlasîa (or the Pure); his Baths and Hospital, which they call Safaîa and Shâfaîa (the Purifying and Healthy); all these I saw in the short space that I had to spare.

1 Gazergâh.

? Probably the name of a palace, though the term takht is sometimes applied to the shrine of a religious man.

3 For the Khiâbân, see p. 43.

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Chapel, or prayer-ground.

I know not what is meant by Pûrân, unless it be the residence of Sheikh Pûrân, a holy man of great celebrity in Herat.

• Pûl-i-Mâlân, or Mâlân-bridge, is the name of the river that passes Herât, coming from the east. There was probably some fine bridge over it, to which Baber alludes; and whence it perhaps had its

name.

7 These Kioshks, so frequently spoken of by Baber, are our own Kiosks, which we have borrowed from the Chinese. Della Valle gives a correct account of them. "Les Perses et les Turcs appellant Kusok ou Kiosck certains batimens elevez dans un jardin, ou dans quelque lieu eminent, dont l'aspect est agreable; non comme une Sale, ou un chambre pour y faire sa demeure et prendre son repos, mais comme une galerie pour s'y promener et diverter durant quelques heures du jour. Quoiqu'a proprement parler ce ne soient pas aussi des galeres qui doivent etre plus longues que larges; au lieu que ces edifices sont de figure ronde ou quarrée, ou à plusieurs faces dans une egale proportion."-Voyages, tome V. p. 304, French translation.

Baber engaged to Maasuma Sultan

Begum.

Leaves

Khorasan.

24th Dec.

1506.

Some time before, while the country was in confusion, the younger daughter of Sultan Ahmed Mirza,' Maasûma Sultan Begum, had been brought into Khorasân by her mother Habîbeh Sultan Begum. One day that I went to see my Aka, the young princess called along with her mother and saw me. She no sooner saw me than she conceived a strong attachment, and employed persons secretly to communicate her feelings to my Aka and my Yenka. I called Paiendeh Sultan Begum, Akâm, and Habîbeh Sultan Begum, Yenkâm.3 After some conversation, it was agreed that my Yenka should follow me with her daughter, and come to Kâbul.

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Muhammed Berendûk and Zûlnûn Beg had used every kind of entreaty, and exerted all their endeavours, to prevail on me to winter in Khorasân, but did not provide me with either proper quarters or suitable conveniences to enable me to do so. The winter was come, and the snow began to fall in the mountains that separated me from my dominions. I still felt considerable alarm as to the situation of things in Kâbul, and yet they neither gave me a place in which I could construct winter quarters for myself, nor one ready fitted up for that purpose. At length, compelled by necessity, and unable to explain my real motives, I left Heri on the 8th of Shâbân, under pretence of going into winter-quarters. I marched to the neighbourhood of Bâdghîs, halting a day or two at every station, and then resuming my route, in order that such of my men as had gone to collect money, or who had dispersed on any other business or employment over the country, might have time to return and join me. We lingered and tarried so long, that, in our second or third march after passing LengerMîr Ghiâs, we saw the moon of Ramzân. Many of those who had gone out on business or with other objects, had now come back and joined me; many did not return for twenty days or a month afterwards, when they came to me at Kâbul; several staid behind altogether, and entered into the Mirzas' service. Of this last number was Sidim Ali Derbân, who remained behind, and took service with Badîa-ez-zemân Mirza. I had shown none of Khosrou Shah's servants such attention as him. When Jehangir Mirza went off and abandoned Ghazni, I had given it to Sidim Ali, who had left his wife's brother, Dost Angû Sheikh, behind in that city, while he himself accompanied the army. In truth, among all the servants of Khosrou Shah, there were no better men than Sidim Ali Derbân and Mohib Ali Korchi. Sidim had an excellent temper and manners. He was a man of valour in war, and was never without a party or entertainment at his house. Though extremely liberal, he was careful to confine his expenses within his income; yet he always had everything necessary. He had a polished manner and address, and his style of conversation and of telling a story was peculiarly agreeable. He was lively, witty, and humorous. His great fault was that he was addicted to paiderasty. He was rather heterodox in his religious opinions, and was accused of being somewhat of a double dealer. Many of the charges brought against him on that head,

1 One of Baber's paternal uncles.

2 Paiendeh Sultan Begum, the widow of Sultan Hussain Mirza.

3 These names seem to mean my lady and my bridesmaid, and are used by way of endearment.
Badghîs, or Bâdkis, is north-east from Herât.

*This must have been about the 15th or 16th January 1507.

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however, were really owing to his ironical manner; yet no doubt there was some truth in the charge. When Badîa-ez-zemân surrendered Heri to the enemy, and went to Shah Beg, Sidim Ali, in consequence of some double dealing of his between Shah Beg and the Mirza, was put to death and thrown into the river Hirmend. Mohib Ali will be mentioned hereafter.

by the hillcountry.

his troops from the

Leaving Lenger-Mîr-Ghiâs, and passing the villages on the borders of Gharjistân,1 Advances we reached Chekhcherân. From the time we left Lenger till we came into the vicinity of Chekhcherân, it snowed incessantly. The farther we advanced, the deeper was the snow. At Chekhcherân the snow reached above the horses' knees. Chekhcherân belonged to Zûlnûn Beg; Mîrik Jan Irdi was his manager there. I took and paid for all Zûlnûn Beg's grain. Two or three days after we had passed Chekhcherân, the snow became excessively deep; it reached up above the stirrups. In many places the horses' feet did not reach the ground, and the snow still continued to fall. When we passed Chirâghdân, the snow not only continued deep, but we did not know the road. When at Lenger-Mîr-Ghiâs, we had consulted what was the best road to return to Kâbul: I and some others proposed that, as it was winter, we should go by the route of Kandahar, because, though rather the longer road, it might be travelled without risk or trouble, while the hill-road was difficult and dangerous. Kâsim Beg, saying that that road was far about and this direct, behaved very perversely; and in the end we resolved on attempting the short road. One Sultan Bishâi was our guide. I do not Dangers of know whether it was from old age, or from his heart failing him, or from the unusual depth of the snow, but having once lost the road, he never could find it again, so as snow. to point out the way. As we had given the preference to this road, in consequence of the earnestness expressed by Kâsim Beg, he and his sons, anxious to preserve their reputation, dismounted, and, after beating down the snow, discovered a road, by which we advanced. Next day, as there was much snow, and the road was not to be found with all our exertions, we were brought to a complete stand. Seeing no remedy left, we returned back to a place where there was abundance of firewood, and dispatched sixty or seventy chosen men, to return by the road we had come, and, retracing our footsteps, to find, under the higher grounds, any Hazâras or other people who might be wintering there, and to bring a guide who was able to point out the way. We halted at this spot for three or four days, waiting the return of the men whom we had sent out. They did indeed come back, but without having been able to find a proper guide. Placing our reliance on God, therefore, and sending on Sultan Bishâi before us, we again advanced by that very road in which formerly we had been stopped and forced to return. In the few days that followed, many were the difficulties and hardships that we endured; indeed, such hardships and suffering as I have scarcely undergone at any other period of my life. It was at this time that I composed the following verses:-

For a learned dissertation of Silvestre de Saci on the situation of Gharjistân, see Mines de l'Orient, vol. I. p. 321.

2 Baber, in returning to Kâbul, pursued a route through the country of the Aimâks and Hazâras, considerably to the south of that by which he had advanced to Herât. Chekhcherân lies about N. lat. 34° 12, and E. long. 66° 8'.

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