Ulugh Beg's kand, a stately palace, four stories high, which is famous by the name of Gok-serai. There are many other magnificent edifices. One of these is the grand mosque, which is situated near the Iron-gate, within the walls of the city, and is built of stone. A number of stone-cutters were brought from Hindustân to work on it. In the frontispiece over the portico of the mosque, is inscribed the verse of the Koran, Wa az yerfâ Ibrahim al Kawâdeh,' &c. in characters of such a size that they may be read nearly a kos off. It is a very grand building. To the east of Samarkand there are two gardens. The one, which is the more distant, is called Bagh-e-Boldi (or the Perfect Garden); the nearer, Bagh-e-Dilkushâ (or the Heart-delighting Garden). From the Bagh-e-Dilkushâ to the Firozeh gate3 there is a Khiabân (or public avenue), planted on each side with pine-trees. In the garden of Dilkushâ, there has also been built a large Kioshk or palace, in which is a series of paintings, representing the wars of Taimur Beg in Hindûstân. There is another garden, on the skirts of the hill of Kohik, on the banks of the Ab-Siah (black-water) of Kanegûl, which they call Ab-e-Rahmet, (or the Water of Mercy), and this is denominated Naksh-e-Jehan (the Miniature of the World). When I saw it, it had fallen into decay, and nothing worthy of notice was left. On the south of Samarkand lies the Bagh-e-Chenâr (the Plane-Tree Garden), which is in the immediate vicinity of the city. Lower down than Samarkand are the Bagh-e-Shemâl (or Northern Garden), and the Bagh-e-Behisht (or Garden of Paradise). Muhammed Sultan Mirza, the son of Jehangir Mirza, and grandson of Taimur Beg, founded a college just as you go out of the stone fort of Samarkand. The tomb of Taimur Beg, and the tombs of all such of the descendants of Taimur Beg as have reigned in Samarkand, are in that college. Among the edifices erected by Ulugh Beg Mirza are the college and convent, or college, &c. Khankah, which stand within the fortifications of Samarkand. The door of the con Timur's time, there was then no citadel. Yet Ebn Haukul, p. 253, mentions a citadel as existing in his time; and Petis de la Croix the elder mentions the Gheuk-serai in Gengis-Khan's time.-See Note p. 40. 1 The account given by Sherîfeddîn Ali Yezdi of the building of this mosque is curious.—See Hist. de Timur Bec, vol. III. p. 178-181. The stone-cutters, 200 in number, came from Azerbaejân, Fars, and India. There were 480 pillars of hewn stone, each seven cubits high. The Baghe-Shimâl, at Samarkand, was built by workmen from Syria and Bagdad, who seem to have excelled in delicate ornaments, in a species of Mosaic, and in the construction of fountains and jets-d'eau.-Ibid. vol. IV. p. 179, and vol. II. p. 409. The great similarity observable in all Musulman sacred architecture, leads us to suppose that it proceeded from one common origin, which was probably Damascus or Jerusalem, these being the first great cities which they occupied. The architecture of some favourite edifices there was probably their model. The same uniformity that is observable in Musulman mosques is found in Christian churches of the middle ages, and from a similar cause. The plans and chief workmen were probably principally from Rome. In the construction of the famous monastery of Mount Cassino, built by Desiderio, afterwards Pope Victor III., the columns and marbles of different colours were brought ready cut from Rome at a great expense. The best workmen came from Constantinople.-L'Esprit des Croisades, vol. II. p. 428. Some work on the architecture of the eastern nations is much required. 2 These words, Wa az yerfâ, &c. are from the second chapter of the Koran:-" And Ibraham and Ismael raised the foundations of the house, saying, Lord! accept it from us, for thou art he who heareth and knoweth Lord! make us also resigned unto thee, and show us thy holy ceremonies, and be turned unto us, for thou art easy to be reconciled, and merciful."-Sale's Koran, vol. I. p. 24. 3 Turquoise gate. ♦ The Mahometan religion has its ascetics, who are united in convents. They are found principally in Persia and Turkey. vent is of great magnitude, and, indeed, scarcely to be equalled in the world. In the vicinity of this college and convent there is an excellent set of baths, known by the name of the Mirza's baths. The floor is paved with stones of every sort in chequerwork. There are no baths to equal them in all Khorasan or Samarkand. On the south of this college is situated a mosque, which is called Mesjid-e-Makatâ (or the Carved Mosque), because its timbers are curiously carved2 with ornaments and flowers of various kinds, and the whole of the walls and roof are adorned in the same manner. The direction of the Kibleh3 of this mosque is very different from that of the college; and the probability is, that the Kibleh of the former was adjusted by astronomical observation. Another remarkable edifice is the observatory, erected on the skirts of the hill of Kohik, which is provided with an astronomical apparatus, and is three stories in height. By means of this observatory, Ulugh. Beg Mirza1 composed the Zich-Korkâni (or Korkâni Astronomical Tables), which are followed at the present time, scarcely any other being used. Before they were published, the Ilkhâni Astronomical Tables were in general use, constructed by Khwâjeh Nasîr in the time of Holâkû, in an observatory built at Marâgha. Holâkû Khan was also denominated Ilkhâni. Not more than seven or eight observatories have been constructed in the world. Among these, one was erected by the Khalif Mâmûn, and in it the astronomical Tables entitled Zîch Mâmûni were drawn up. Another was built by Btalmiûs.5 Another was the observatory erected in Hindustân, in the time of Raja Bikermâjet, a Hindû, in Ujein and Dhâr, in the kingdom of Malwah, now known as the kingdom of Mândû. The Hindûs still follow the astronomical tables which were then constructed. Since the building that observatory till the present time is 1584 years. These tables are, however, more imperfect than any of the others. At the foot of the hill of Kohik, on the west, there is a garden, named Bagh-e-meidân (the Garden of the Plain), in the middle of which is a splendid edifice, two stories high, 1 This floor seems to have been ornamented with mosaic work. ? I am informed that there is an old mosque at Delhi, in the fort, which goes by the name of Shir Shah, which is said to have furnished the model of this at Samarkand. It is added, that it is easily seen to be ancient by the architecture. It is covered with Arabic inscriptions, and is still a very striking edifice. 3 The Kibleh is the point to which the Musulmans turn in prayer. The black stone, or kaaba, in the temple of Mekka, is their Kibleh. The illustrious Ulugh Beg Mirza, who governed Samarkand nearly forty years, chiefly in his father's lifetime, devoted much of his leisure to study, and was particularly skilled in the mathematical sciences. The task of composing the astronomical tables which go under his name was first intrusted to Moulana Seláh-ed-din Mûsa, better known by the name of the Kazi-zadeh Rûmi. On his death, it devolved on Moulâna Ghiâs-ed-din Jemshîd; and he having died in the course of the work, they were completed by Ibn Ali Muhammed Koshji, generally called Ali Koshji. Graves pretends, that he heard from a Turk worthy of credit, that the radius of the quadrant used by Ulugh Beg in his observations, was equal to the height of St Sophia's. Ulugh Beg is said to have himself assisted in the composition of the Tables. 5 Ptolemy, the Geographer. 6 This remark would seem to fix the period when Baber composed this part of his Commentaries at A. H. 934, or A. D. 1527-8, that being the 1584th year of the era of Vikram-aditya, only three years before his death. Its bazars and manufactures. The valleys in its vici.. nity: named Chehil-Sitûn (the Forty Pillars). The pillars are all of stone. In the four turrets in the corners of this building, they have constructed four Guldestehs,' or minarets, the road up to which is by these four towers. In every part of the building are stone pillars curiously wrought; some twisted, others fluted, and some with other peculiarities. The four sides of the upper story consist of open galleries, supported by pillars all of stone; and in the centre is a grand hall or pavilion, likewise of stone. The raised floor of the palace is all paved with stone. Towards the hill of Kohik there is a small garden, wherein is a great open hall, within which is a large throne of a single stone, about fourteen or fifteen gez3 in length, seven or eight in breadth, and one in height. This huge stone was brought from a great distance. There is a crack in it, which it is said to have received since it was brought to this place. In this garden, there is another state pavilion, the walls of which are overlaid with porcelain of China, whence it is called the Chinese House. It is said that a person was sent to Khitâ,5 for the purpose of bringing it. Within the walls of Samarkand is another ancient building, called the Laklaka (or Echoing) Mosque; because, whenever any person stamps on the ground in the mosque, an echo (Laklaka) is returned. It is a strange thing, the secret of which is known to nobody. 6 In the time of Sultan Ahmed Mirza, many of the greater and lesser Begs formed gardens, some large, others smaller. Among these, the Chehar-Bagh of Dervîsh Muhammed Terkhân, in respect of climate, situation, and beauty, is equalled by few. It is situated lower down than the Bagh-e-meidân, on a small eminence that rises above the valley of Kulbeh, and commands a view of the whole vale, which stretches out below. In this Chehar-Bagh, there is a variety of different plots laid out one above another, all on a regular plan, and elms, cypresses, and white poplars, are planted in the different compartments. It is a very perfect place. Its chief defect is, that it has no great stream of running water. Samarkand is a wonderfully elegant city. One of its distinguishing peculiarities is, that each trade has its own bazar; so that different trades are not mixed together in the same place. The established customs and regulations are good. The bakers' shops are excellent, and the cooks are skilful. The best paper in the world comes from Samarkand. The species of paper called juaz comes entirely from Kanegil, which is situated on the banks of the Abe-Siâh (Black Water), called also the Abe-Rahmet (or Water of Mercy). Another production of Samarkand is the Kermezi (or crimson velvet), which is exported to all quarters. Around Samarkand are five aulengs (or meadows). One of these is famous, under 1 The Guldesteh is a minaret, or any high turret-like building; it is generally built with open gal- Twenty-eight or thirty feet long, fourteen or sixteen broad, and two high. 5 Northern China. • Chehar-Bagh, or Char-Bagh, means Four-Gardens. It is generally a very large and elegant garden. It perhaps had this name from having been originally laid out in four principal plots, with two avenues crossing each other at right angles in the centre. It is said to have been usual to lay out the different plots or divisions in different styles. Now, however, the term is applied to any large and elegant garden. 7 Hence the cramoisy of our old ballads. the name of Kanegil. It lies to the east of Samarkand, but a little inclining to the The Ka negil. north. It may be about a shiraa kos1 off. The Abe-Rahmet (or Water of Mercy) runs through the midst of it, and has volume enough to drive seven or eight mills. The banks of this stream are full of quagmires. Many allege that the original name of this meadow was Aulengi Kâne-Abgir (the Meadow of Quagmires); but in histories it is always denominated Kane-Gil (the Clay-Pits). The Sultans of Samarkand were accustomed to guard this vale as a Kurûgh,3 and were in the habit of taking up their residence for two or three weeks annually in this meadow. Khan. Higher up than this meadow, to the south-east, lies another, called the Yuret-Khan The Yuret(or Khan's halting-place). It is to the east of Samarkand, about one shiraa kos. The Abe-Siâh (Black Water), after passing through it, proceeds on to Kanegil. The river winds round the Yuret-Khan in such a manner as to leave room within for an army to encamp. The roads leading from it are very narrow. Perceiving the excellence of this position, I encamped here for some time during the siege. dow. Another is the Kurûgh meadow, which lies between the Bagh-e-Dilkushâ and Samar- The Kukand. Another meadow is that of Kûle Moghâk, which lies to the west of Samarkand, rugh meabut inclining to the north, at the distance of two shiraa kos. This is also a pleasant The Kûl-evalley. On one side of it is a large reservoir or piece of water (Kûl), whence it is Mughâk Moghâk (or called the meadow of Kûl-e-Moghâk. During the siege of Samarkand, when I was Pool). encamped at Yuret-Khan, Sultan Ali Mirza took up his station on this plain of Kûl-eMoghâk. Another is the meadow of Kulbeh, which is but small. On the north it has the The Valley village of Kulbeh and the river of Kobik; on the south, the Bagh-e-meidân and the of Kulbeh. Chehar-Bagh of Dervish Muhammed Terkhân; on the east, the hill of Kohik. 4 Samarkand has many provinces and Tumâns. One of the largest of its provinces, Its Tuand which comes near to Samarkand, is Bokhâra, lying to the west of Samarkand mans and provinces. twenty-five farsangs. Bokhâra is a fine city, and has seven Tumans or districts, Bokhara. each of them resembling a town. Its fruits are both abundant and of good quality, particularly its melons, which are exquisite; the melons of Bokhâra are not to be equalled in all Mâweralnaher, either for quantity or excellence. Though, at Akhsi, in the country of Ferghâna, there is one extremely sweet and delicate species of melon, which they call Mîr Taimûri, yet, in Bokhâra, there is a profusion of melons of every description, and all good of their kind. The pruin or plum of Bokhâra is also celebrated, and nowhere else is that fruit to be found in equal perfection. They peel off the rind of this fruit, and dry it," after which it is carried as a most acceptable rarity to other countries. As a laxative, it is a medicine of approved excellence. The household fowl and goose are here of a good breed. In all Mâweralnaher there is no wine superior, in spirit and strength, to that of Bokhâra. When I drank wine at Samarkand, in the days when I had my drinking-bouts, I used the wine of Bokhâra. 1 More than a mile and a half. * See Note p. 42. 2 See Hist de Taimur Bec, vol. I. 96; vol. II. 133 and 421. • Perhaps the meaning of this only is, that they take out the stone. Kesh. Karshi. Khozar. Soghd. Shadwår. Another province is Kesh, to the south of Samarkand, at the distance of nine farsangs.1 Between the cities of Kesh and Samarkand lies a hill, called Amak Dayân, from which all the stones brought to the city are quarried. In the spring, the plains, the town of Kesh, the walls and terraces of the houses, are all green and cheerful, whence it is named Sheher-Sebz (the Green City). As Kesh was the place of Taimur Beg's nativity, he made incredible exertion to extend and render it his capital. He built a number of magnificent edifices, and, among others. a lofty Tâk, or arched hall, for holding his court. On the right and left of this great Tâk, he constructed two smaller Tâks (or arched halls), for the convenience of the Begs who attended the court. And, for the benefit of those who came to wait the result of their applications, smaller Tâks and saloons were constructed on all sides of the great hall of audience. There is not in the world any Tâk or arch that can be compared with the large one, which is said to exceed even the Tâk-e-Kesra.2 In Kesh there is a college and mausoleum, in which are the tombs of Jehângîr Mirza and of several of his family. As, however, Kesh was found not to possess the same requisites for becoming a great city as Samarkand, Taimur Beg at last fixed on Samarkand as his capital. Another province is Karshi, which they also call Nesef and Nakhsheb. Karshi is a Moghul word, signifying a burial-ground. It probably received this name after the conquest of Chengis Khan. It is deficient in water, but is very pleasant in spring. Its apricots and melons are excellent. It is situated south of Samarkand, inclining towards the west, at the distance of eighteen farsangs.3 There is a small bird resembling the Baghri Kara (black-liver1), which they call Kilkûirogh (horse-tails). They are innumerable in the district of Karshi, and, from the quantity of them there found, they get the name of Murghak-Karshi (the small fowl of Karshi). Another district is that of Khozar. Karmîna is another; it lies between Samarkand and Bokhâra. There is another district named Karakûl (the black lake), which lies lower down the river than any of the rest. It is seven farsangs to the north-west of Bokhâra, and has some very fine Tumâns. Some of the richest Tumâns are those of Soghd, and the Tumâns connected with Soghd, which commence not far from Bokhâra, and proceed without interruption to their termination at Yar-ilâk. There is not one farsang the whole way that does not contain some populous village. It was in allusion to these Tumâns that Taimur Beg used to boast that he possessed a garden thirty farsangs in length. Another Tumân is that of Shâdwâr, which lies close upon the city and suburbs. It is a very fine Tumân. On one side of it is the hill which lies between Samarkand and Shehr-Sebz; and the greater part of its villages lie scattered on the skirts of that hill. On the other side it has the river Kohik. The temperature of the air is charming; the appearance of the country beautiful, water abundant, and provisions cheap. 1 About 36 miles. 2 The Tâk-e-Kesra, below Bagdad on the Tigris, is 105 feet high, 84 feet span, and 150 feet deep. + Probably the rock pigeon of India. 3 About 72 miles. 5 About 28 miles, it should be south west. A hundred and twenty miles. |