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a man of various knowledge and plenty while the Spectator was going on his way of experience in the “ big West,” on his to others that were sure to play. The way to Hawaii to investigate beet sugar Spectator stopped, rigged up his camera, conditions there. There is indeed enough and waited an hour for that exasperating, of individuality in the people one meets hissing, boiling spring to spout. It simply in the West, but it is not exactly the kind would not, while the sun was going down we read about in the stories. The West and all the other geysers in the Park has been “fenced in," and its population seemed to be active. The Spectator has to a certain extent become conven- believes that the Castle genie purposely tionalized.

held the escape valve tightly closed be

cause a camera was pointed at it. Even One wishes that the railroad folders and the satanic guardians of the Park seem to the smaller guide-books would tell the have become sensitive about having their truth about Western scenery. The Spec- abodes photographed. tator met one enthusiastic but taciturn man who said that when he got home and From the devil's frying-pans," "devil's was asked what he had seen, his reply elbows,” and “hell's half-acre ” of the would be,“ I can't describe it. Take these Yellowstone it seems an easy jump to guide-books and multiply them by two, Salt Lake City and Mormonism. The and you'll see what I've seen. The remark would doubtless be resented by a Spectator, on the contrary, would divide very intelligent young man whom the the guide-books by ten or a dozen in order Spectator chanced to meet at Saltair, on to make their descriptions trustworthy. the Great Salt Lake. He was the son of Take the Yellowstone National Park, for an ex-President of the Church, and was instance. The traveler is advised in the well primed, as most Mormons are, for folders to wear heavy wraps; whereas the defense of his faith. He admitted the Spectator found the one indispensable that the doctrine and practice of “plural garment to be a linen duster. The lurid wives ” had injured the Church, but descriptions of the Grand Cañon prepare claimed that polygamy was now a thing one to look for colors of paint-box hues of the past. “ The Mormons are a Godand brilliancy; whereas the coloring, fearing, law-abiding people," he said, " and beautiful as it is, is soft and blended they propose to obey the law of the land.” rather than brilliant and bizarre. Another He enlarged upon the kindliness and affecthing that the guide-books fail to mention tion that had existed in polygamous houseis the fact that the points of interest in holds, and pointed out to the Spectator the Park—and absorbingly interesting with special pride a fine-looking man, one they certainly are—are centered around a of the three chief councilors, whose pofew favored localities, and that one has lygamous household had been a model of to travel magnificent distances froin day kindly virtues, without jealousy or envy to day to get to these.

on the part of any of the seraglio. The

Spectator was somewhat skeptical, and “ Are you going for pleasure, or are said he couldn't imagine a woman you going to carry a camera ?" was the saintly or so spiritless that she would show question a friend addressed to the Spec- no feeling if one of the other wives retator just before he started on his journey. ceived from her husband a present of a The antithesis is one that all camera- new silk dress while she didn't get one. carriers will appreciate. The Spectator “Well," was the sagacious reply, given has made many a vow that he will never with a smile, “they didn't manage things carry a camera again, but he forgets; and that way. When a new dress was given occasionally his forgetfulness enables him to one, it was quadrupled, or sextupled, or to bring back pictures that are worth whatever it might be, and given to all.” while—at least so his more indulgent Verily, those old Mormons were wise in friends think. But the pictures that are their day and generation! And then, too, brought are nothing to those that are left the canny Book of Mormon probably stipubehind. That one of the “Castle "geyser, lated that one new dress a year was enough for instance. The soldiers said that this for any woman, let alone a fractional remarkable geyser was just about to play, wife i

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Illustrated with Photographs by Henry Hoyt Moore FUDGE Brakenridge crossed the Alle- but that of work which means independ.

ghany Mountains in 1781 to settle ence and mastery, wins to-day the emi

in Pittsburg, Pa. He wrote in the grant from the East and from the West. Pittsburg “Gazette " a description of He comes from field and farm and from the town,

college halls, for in this city, where capital ** If town it might be call’d, that town was and labor have struggled till the masters none,

of both have made it their own, brawn Distinguished by house or street,

and brain have a fair field. Pittsburg is but, in fact, a few old buildings under the the apotheosis of American civilization. walls of the garrison which stood at the To-day it stands at the threshold of a junction of the two rivers." Judge future so great as to silence the prophets, Brakenridge describes the Alleghany: who see only an ever-widening horizon, "You will see, on a spring evening, the and are unable to grasp the vision of banks of the river lined with men fishing what lies within. at intervals from one another. This, To those who think of Pittsburg as with the stream gently gliding, the woods hidden by smoke and grime, and peopled at a distance green, and the shadows by men who, in their hours of labor, seem lengthening towards the town, forms a a part of the place the orthodox try to delightful scene.' Vivid descriptions avoid, the city is a constant surprise and follow of the orchards and woods on its revelation. Miles of its streets are lined banks. Of Herr's Island, about a mile with beautiful houses standing in the above the junction of the two rivers in midst of well-kept lawns. The streets the Alleghany, the Judge writes: “When wind at the foot of the hills or climb the the poet comes, with his enchanting song, sides at curves of the easiest ascent. to pour his magic numbers on this scene, Blocks of houses standing on streets runthis little island may aspire to live with ning at right angles are almost unknown. those in the Ægean Sea, where the song Here and there in the old sections of the of Homer drew the image of delight.” city rows of houses are seen for a block Over this scene of sylvan and rustic or su, but they are not uniform, being beauty the magic of the nineteenth cen- broken in length and front. Houses of tury has wrought her marvelous change. three, four, and five rooms are in clusters Chimneys, retorts, furnaces, foundries, everywhere on the ledges above the replace the woods; the whir and throb vorks, far beyond their smoke and grime, of machinery have silenced the songs of in valleys over which trestle or bridge birds. Not the prospect of ease and rest, carries the trolleys to, around, and beyond

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STEEL WORKS AT BRADDOCK, ON THE MONONGAHELA The picturesque stern-wheel steamboat is a familiar sight on the rivers near Pittsburg,

or

mountains that hide the smoke and the the hopeless bareness of a New York teneflashing torch of the greatest industry the ment-house block. world has ever known. These houses A ride in the trolleys on Sunday through represent the workingmen of every grade. the streets along the rivers, where the great Sometimes dilapidated, reached by rick- iron and steel works are on one side and ety stairs that nothing but hourly famil- the houses of the workingmen on the iarity enables one to use without fear other, is a series of surprises. Windows and trembling, hanging on banks which with white curtains are open, showing they threaten to bring down by their own interiors well furnished. The sounds of weight, standing on terraced hillsides piano and organ are common ; tidy but surrounded by tidy grassplots, sheltered plainly dressed people are in evidence on by trees and brightened by flower borders every side ; except in a few cases, chiland mounds, these homes of the working- dren are plainly dressed, and the consciousman win the attention of the stranger. ness is borne into one that clothes are not Everywhere the pretentious house of the the end and aim of the poor man's family prosperous man, as well as the mansion in Pittsburg. This fact is emphasized on of wealth and culture, shares the attention ; the week days, when the tidily dressed even if they would not, the wealthy peo- woman is met everywhere with a marketple of Pittsburg are forced to know the basket. In and out of stores and cars sections where the working people live. she wends her way, often with a baby These people are scattered in every part of a young child on one arm. She a city where works and homes have grown takes home what she buys; she does her together. In the early days they were marketing in the morning. These two forced to live close together. To-day the facts always mark the home-making of trolley lines have annihilated distance, the woman who “ looketh well to the ways and labor and capital both find the magnifi- of her household ;" the woman whose cent suburbs the places for home centers. “children rise up and call her blessed ;" New centers of industry are developing, the woman whose “husband doth safely and will, in the near future, be a part of trust in her, so that he shall have no need this wonderful city.

of spoil." In spite of the vast differences in wealth, There are sections of the city and Pittsburg reveals the spirit of democracy through its suburbs where foreigners have in its best sense. Doubtless this is due

Doubtless this is due brought conditions that inevitably result to the homogeneity of interest. No mat- in degradation. These are race quite as ter how wide the difference between cap- much as local conditions ; they are found ital and labor in Pittsburg, it is superfi- in every city to which these races enigrate cial. Fundamentally their interests are for their period of money-making before identical. The stability of the great iron they return to their native lands or start and steel industries, on which depend on their commercial career in this country. the development and the supremacy of They are staying, not settling. Here Pittsburg, is of vital importance to both. scores of men, in houses barely fit to house

Two other distinctive characteristics dif- the commonest cattle, colonize. Two or ferentiate Pittsburg from other cities: It three women do the cooking for the colony. is an American city—its signs impress Now and then a family is found among this on a stranger—and it is a city of young them, the women and children moving men, young families. Houses of every the heart to pity. In Pittsburg these grade show some provision for outdoor colonies are sometimes in hollows away life for children. The street is not the from every civilizing influence. One playground, except in the older sections. shivers at the thought of the life lived Trees are preserved even where poverty there. Where the interest is commercial, has her tightest grip. A gay plant or two trade the race characteristic, the congesand a tree, if there is earth enough in tion is in the center of the busiest locality which to place them, relieve poverty of and produces the same problem that such barrenness. It is this preservation of characteristics produce in other cities. nature that redeems the poorest sections, Life is hard, the condition far from elewhere the streets are unpaved and gullied, vating, but the environment pays some where houses stand at every angle, from regard to law and order ; life is not lived

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