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Tour to authority of the chiefs sets the people loose. It did not pretend to bring any positive good, but only to cure some evil; and I am not well enough acquainted with the country to know what degree of evil the heritable jurisdictions occasioned." I maintained hardly any; because the chiefs generally acted right, for their own sakes.

Dr. Johnson was now wishing to move. There was not enough of intellectual entertainment for him, after he had satisfied his curiosity, which he did, by asking questions, till he had exhausted the island; and where there was so numerous a company, mostly young people, there was such a flow of familiar talk, so much noise, and so much singing and dancing, that little opportunity was left for his energetic conversation. He seemed sensible of this; for when I told him how happy they were at having him there, he said, "Yet we have not been able to entertain them much." I was fretted, from irritability of nerves, by M'Cruslick's' too obstreperous mirth. I complained of it to my friend, observing we should be better if he was gone. "No, sir," said he. "He puts something into our society, and takes nothing out of it." Dr. Johnson, however, had several opportunities of instructing the company; but I am sorry to say, that I did not pay sufficient attention to what passed, as his discourse now turned chiefly on mechanics, agriculture, and such subjects, rather than on science and wit. Last night Lady Rasay showed him the operation of wawking cloth, that is, thickening it in the same manner as is done by a mill. Here it is performed by women, who kneel upon the ground, and rub it with both their hands, singing an Erse song all the time. He was asking questions


[It was probably these high animal spirits that obtained this gentleman the appellation of M'Cruslick.-ED.]


while they were performing this operation, and, Tour to amidst their loud and wild howl, his voice was heard even in the room above.

They dance here every night. The queen of our ball was the eldest Miss Macleod, of Rasay, an elegant well-bred woman, and celebrated for her beauty over all those regions, by the name of Miss Flora Rasay1. There seemed to be no jealousy, no discontent among them; and the gaiety of the scene was such, that I for a moment doubted whether unhappiness had any place in Rasay. But my delusion was soon dispelled, by recollecting the following lines of my fellow-traveller:

"Yet hope not life from pain or danger free,

Or think the doom of man reversed for thee!"

Sunday, 12th September. It was a beautiful day, and although we did not approve of travelling on Sunday, we resolved to set out, as we were in an island from whence one must take occasion as it serves. Macleod and Talisker sailed in a boat of Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest way to Dunvegan. M'Cruslick went with them to Sconser, from whence he was to go to Slate, and so to the main land. We were resolved to pay a visit at Kingsburgh, and see the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald, who is married to the present Mr. Macdonald of Kingsburgh; so took that road, though not so near. All the family, but Lady Rasay, walked down to the shore to see us depart. Rasay himself went with us in a large boat, with eight oars, built in his island; as did Mr. Malcolm Macleod, Mr. Donald M'Queen,

She had been some time at Edinburgh, to which she again went, and was married [1777] to my worthy neighbour, Colonel Mure Campbell, now Earl of Loudoun; but she died soon afterwards, leaving one daughter.-BOSWELL. [Her daughter, Countess of Loudoun in her own right, married the late Earl of Moira, created Marquis of Hastings, and is the mother of the present marquis.-ED.]


Tour to Dr. Macleod, and some others. We had a most pleasant sail between Rasay and Sky; and passed by a cave, where Martin says fowls were caught by lighting fire in the mouth of it. Malcolm remembers this. But it is not now practised, as few fowls come into it.

We spoke of Death. Dr. Johnson on this subject observed, that the boastings of some men, as to dying easily, were idle talk, proceeding from partial views. I mentioned Hawthornden's Cypress-grove, where it is said that the world is a mere show; and that it is unreasonable for a man to wish to continue in the show-room after he has seen it. Let him go cheerfully out, and give place to other spectators. JOHNSON. "Yes, sir, if he is sure he is to be well, after he goes out of it. But if he is to grow blind after he goes out of the show-room, and never to see any thing again; or if he does not know whither he is to go next, a man will not go cheerfully out of a showroom. No wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks he is to go into a state of punishment. Nay, no wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks he is to fall into annihilation: for however unhappy any man's existence may be, he yet would rather have it, than not exist at all. No; there is no rational principle by which a man can die contented, but a trust in the mercy of GOD, through the merits of Jesus Christ." This short sermon, delivered with an earnest tone, in a boat upon the sea, which was perfectly calm, on a day appropriated to religious worship, while every one listened with an air of satisfaction, had a most pleasing effect upon my mind.

Pursuing the same train of serious reflection, he added, that it seemed certain that happiness could not be found in this life, because so many had tried to find it, in such a variety of ways, and had not found it.


We reached the harbour of Portree, in Sky, which Tour to is a large and good one. There was lying in it a vessel to carry off the emigrants, called the Nestor. It made a short settlement of the differences between a chief and his clan:

Nestor componere lites

Inter Peleiden festinat et inter Atriden.

We approached her, and she hoisted her colours.
Dr. Johnson and Mr. M'Queen remained in the
boat: Rasay and I, and the rest, went on board of
her. She was a very pretty vessel, and, as we were
told, the largest in Clyde. Mr. Harrison, the captain,
showed her to us. The cabin was commodious, and
even elegant. There was a little library, finely bound.
Portree has its name from King James the Fifth
having landed there in his tour through the Western
Isles, ree in Erse being king1, as re is in Italian; so
it is Port-Royal. There was here a tolerable inn. On
our landing, I had the pleasure of finding a letter
from home; and there were also letters to Dr. Johnson
and me, from Lord Elibank, which had been sent
after us from Edinburgh.
was as follows:

His lordship's letter to me

"21st August, 1773.

"DEAR BOSWELL,-I flew to Edinburgh the moment I heard of Mr. Johnson's arrival; but so defective was my intelligence, that I came too late.

"It is but justice to believe, that I could never forgive myself, nor deserve to be forgiven by others, if I was to fail in any mark of respect to that very great genius. I hold him in the highest veneration; for that very reason I was resolved to take no share in the merit, perhaps guilt, of enticing him to honour this country with a visit. I could not persuade myself

1 [Why does not Mr. Boswell also discover that port is, in Erse, port? It may be inferred, that the original Erse was the language of a very poor and barbarous people, for the names now employed for the principal objects of commerce, and of social or political life, seem to have been borrowed from foreigners, as king, port, horse, cow, &c.-ED.]

Tour to there was any thing in Scotland worthy to have a summer of
Hebrid. Samuel Johnson bestowed on it; but since he has done us that

compliment, for heaven's sake inform me of your motions. I
will attend them most religiously; and though I should regret
to let Mr. Johnson go a mile out of his way on my account, old
as I am1, I shall be glad to go five hundred miles to enjoy a
day of his company. Have the charity to send a council-post 2
with intelligence; the post does not suit us in the country.
At any rate, write to me. I will attend you in the north, when
I shall know where to find you. I am, my dear Boswell, your
sincerely obedient humble servant,

The letter to Dr. Johnson was in these words:

“DEAR SIR,—I was to have kissed your hands at Edinburgh, the moment I heard of you, but you was gone.

"I hope my friend Boswell will inform me of your motions. It will be cruel to deprive me an instant of the honour of attending you. As I value you more than any king in Christendom, I will perform that duty with infinitely greater alacrity than any courtier. I can contribute but little to your entertainment; but my sincere esteem for you gives me some title to the opportunity of expressing it.

"I dare say you are by this time sensible that things are pretty much the same as when Buchanan complained of being born solo et seculo inerudito. Let me hear of you, and be persuaded that none of your admirers is more sincerely devoted to you, than, dear sir, your most obedient and most humble servant, "ELIBANK.”

Dr. Johnson, on the following Tuesday, answered for both of us, thus:

"Skie, 14th Sept. 1773.

"MY LORD,—On the rugged shore of Skie, I had the honour of your lordship's letter, and can with great truth declare that no place is so gloomy but that it would be cheered by such a testimony of regard, from a mind so well qualified to estimate characters, and to deal out approbation in its due proportions. If I have more than my share, it is your lordship's fault; for I have always reverenced your judgment too much, to exalt myself in your presence by any false pretensions.

[His lordship was now 70, having been born in 1703.-ED.]

2 A term in Scotland for a special messenger, such as was formerly sent with despatches by the lords of the council.-BoswELL.

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