place I started from. I found an excellent guest

room.

This is a large Armenian village, with only four Koordish families residing. The chief of the place came and offered me every assistance: he was followed by a train of poor Christians, who stood round as slaves, obeying each call and gesture of their imperious ruler. Presently, two Armenians from Russia, entered, dressed in huge skin coats and high Persian caps it seemed hardly possible to imagine that these big burly fellows, sitting down at their ease, caring no more for the Koord than for the wall, were of the same race as the poor debased, shrivelled slaves who stood round with folded arms. Yet this was but the result of a few years of comparative freedom. It did me good, as I lay with my eyes closed, to hear how they bounced over the Koord. He refused to find, or rather said there was not, a shelter for their horses -mine being already in the public stable. A small piece of paper,-a Russian passport of which he could not, I am sure, understand one word, -made the desired room. As soon as the rain lulled, I pushed on, and reached Melasguird.

The surrounding country is most barren. From

a distance, Melasguird has an imposing appearance, with its long line of battlements of black basalt, with a touch of time rending its towers and high places. Passed a pretty bridge, now useless, as the stream has made another channel further on. The tent proved no protection; the wind blew in hurricanes; so I took possession of the guest-room, of which servants, horses, &c., shared a part.

160

THE TOWN OF MELASGUIRD.

CHAPTER VIII.

The Town of Melasguird-Some Account of an eccentric Dervish— Kulitcher-People of the Village-Return of Illness-Suspicions of Robbery-The Thief detected and punished-Rencontre with the Groom-Unveiled Eastern Women-Carelessness of Eastern Parents as to the Cleanliness of their Children-Kindness of Women at a Village-A wretched Altar-piece-Welcome Verdure Obstinacy of the Guide-His Dismissal and Repentance-Boorish Koords— Journey pursued under increasing Illness-Reach Hassan KalehArmen to Khan-At length reach Erzeroum-Kind Reception by the Consul and his Wife-Care and Skill of Dr. Birge-My Recovery— Third conjectured Site of Eden-Which was probably the Site?Domestic Economy of the Consul's House-Importance of Erzeroum -Early History of Erzeroum- Present Inhabitants-Bazaars and Khans-Houses-Climate of Erzeroum-Castle Clock-Dress of the People The Pasha at Van, a Reminiscence-Superstitions of the Christians at Erzeroum-Produce of Goats' Hair-What Articles are made from it-Harvest-Backshish for first fruits-Preservation of Meat-Gardens around Erzeroum-Introduction of Potatoes, and by whom-Timour and Badazet.

ON the following morning I rode to see the town: it is entirely surrounded by a high double wall, strengthened with towers. Being built of black stone, it has a solid and more imposing appearance than a nearer view justifies; for it is ill built, principally with rubble, and the mortar bad. No attempt is now made to keep the fortifications in

repair. The castle, situated in the S.E. portion, is in the same rough style. Armenian tomb-stones had not been spared in the construction, and many finely carved sarcophagi served as horse-troughs. The Montselim received me civilly, and sent on horsemen with me. The present town is built amidst the ruins of the old, of which it comprises about one-fifth only the whole space is strewn with ruins, walls, and stones.

These ruins, though here and there presenting an appearance superior to the rest, merit no mention. The Armenian church is a large, low, ill-built place, gaudily ornamented with rags and tinsel. Forty minutes' ride brought us to the Sindschan Su, which dashes through a gully of rock, made flowery and pretty by its waters; a bridge of one fine bold arch leads to the western side. Turning north we soon reached the Euphrates, or Morad Tchai, as it is here called; it was here broad and deep, crossed by a bridge of fifteen arches of different shapes, the whole a solid work of white and black stone. Unfortunately, two arches are broken, so we had to seek a ford. One of the Koords rode his horse boldly in, and after a hard swim, landed again on the same side he started

162

THE ECCENTRIC DERVISH.

from. A donkey belonging to a Dervish who had joined company at Patnos, swam across: the Dervish looked at him, and then saying quietly, "Well, he did not belong to me," followed us down the stream.

This man was a native of Candahar, and travelled with me a long while he was always quiet and good-tempered, ready to tell a story or to sing; and whenever I opened my medicine chest never failed to attend, when he claimed a pill of opium. For years he had wandered about, and, as he said, lived with any man whose bread was clean and plenty. Following the course of the river for about an hour, I reached a spot where it seemed fordable, and with the help of the men of Ana Hwoaga, an Armenian village opposite, we crossed dry, baggage and all. My Koord guides looked at me with supreme contempt as I paid them, saying, "A Bey pay dogs like those; it is an honour to them; they ought to pay him." him." The Dervish made no attempt to recover his donkey, but quietly took the first he saw and continued his route. I have seen him change his donkeys twice in a day in the same way, when the one he had did not please him he did not let the owner see him, for, as he said,