THE ANSAYRII,

(OR ASSASSINS,)

WITH

TRAVELS IN
IN THE FURTHER EAS

IN 1850-51.

INCLUDING

A VISIT TO NINEVEH.

BY

LIEUT. THE HON. F. WALPOLE, R.N.

Author of "Four Years in the Pacific."

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

Un

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STRE

Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.

1851.

LONDON:

BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

03-9.42 GS

seb.com.
Nuttall

2-21-42

44787

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Residence of the Pasha-Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation-

Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River

--Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian

Christians Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of

the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those

that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe .

CHAPTER II.

Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents-

Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by

the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to

Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-

Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe-

How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language

of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the

drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two

hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe—Its Antiquity-Pride of the old

Sheik-Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-

Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-

House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-

Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect

of some of the excavated Figures - Prepare to depart for

Kourdistan

PAGE

1

13

CHAPTER III.

Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost Their Re-appearance

Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-

ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers

for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How

it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the

Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-

ment-Negoub-Description ofit-Attempt to examine the Outer

Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant-His Character and

vi

CONTENTS.

PAGY

Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exem-

plification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to

Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhother Elias-Its Church

-Inhospitable Christian Arabs--Measurement of Time by the

Arabs-Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian

concerning Time-Distance, as calculated by time in the East. 38

CHAPTER IV.

Reach Bartella-Kindness of the Priest there-Persecution of the

Christians-Want of Privacy in the East-Incessant Visits from

staring Strangers-How a Traveller should comport himself in

the East-Fall from my horse-Take Refuge in a Convent-

Its Renovation by the Bishop-Accommodation there--Kind-

ness of Mr. and Mrs. Badger-What a Traveller in the East

has to expect in the matter of eating and drinking-Food of

the Natives, rich and poor-View from the Convent-Plain

repeopled-Past Ages called up-Destruction of the Convents

by Tamerlane-Strike amongst the workmen-Peculiar Exhor-

tations of the Bishop-Marriage Tests of the Chaldean Girls-

Journey pursued-Two of the Party fall Sick-Cool Retreat-

Complaining Visitors-The Jews and the young Jewess

CHAPTER V.

the

Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by

Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for

Koord Mountains-Town of Ackra described-The

asha

deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor

Schultz-Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to

Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars

Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Tak

Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent-

of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly

of Van-

en worse-

The Dresses

considered-

Frankish Dress adopted by Turks-"Lebiss Stamboul"-

Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the

Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone

CHAPTER VI.

56

. 80

Misery of being left alone in Sickness-The Hytas-His History-

His Habits and peculiar Cookery-Illusions and Vagaries of

Delirium-Reception by the Hadjee of the truant Servants-

Kavass of Mr. Layard kept it-His exploit at Van-Interior of

Visit of the Armenian Bishop-Mussulman Fast-How the

the Church-The Chapels-Trading in the East-Monks of the

Convent-Armenians-Their good and bad Qualities-Oppro-