LIEUT. THE HON. F. WALPOLE, R.N.

Author of "Four Years in the Pacific."

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.

1851.

LONDON:

BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

див

Nu

@ 3-9-42 GS

Tall

21-42

44787

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Residence of the Pasha-Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation-

Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River

--Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian

Christians-Their Assassination by the Koords—Antiquity of

the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those

that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe .

CHAPTER II.

Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents—

Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by

the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to

Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination—

Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe-

How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language

of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the

drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two

hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe-Its Antiquity-Pride of the old

Sheik-Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-

Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-

House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-

Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect

of some of the excavated Figures - Prepare to depart for

Kourdistan

CHAPTER III.

Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost-Their Re-appearance

Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-

ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers

for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How

it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the

Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-

ment-Negoub-Description ofit-Attempt to examine the Outer

Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant-His Character and

PAGE

1

13

vi

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exem-

plification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to

Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhother Elias-Its Church

-Inhospitable Christian Arabs-Measurement of Time by the

Arabs-Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian

concerning Time-Distance, as calculated by time in the East. 38

CHAPTER IV.

Reach Bartella-Kindness of the Priest there-Persecution of the

Christians-Want of Privacy in the East-Incessant Visits from

staring Strangers-How a Traveller should comport himself in

the East-Fall from my horse-Take Refuge in a Convent-

Its Renovation by the Bishop-Accommodation there--Kind-

ness of Mr. and Mrs. Badger-What a Traveller in the East

has to expect in the matter of eating and drinking-Food of

the Natives, rich and poor-View from the Convent-Plain

repeopled-Past Ages called up-Destruction of the Convents

by Tamerlane-Strike amongst the workmen-Peculiar Exhor-

tations of the Bishop-Marriage Tests of the Chaldean Girls-

Journey pursued-Two of the Party fall Sick-Cool Retreat-

Complaining Visitors The Jews and the young Jewess

CHAPTER V.

Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by

Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for the

Koord Mountains-Town of Ackra described-The Pasha

deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor

Schultz-Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to

Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars of Van—

Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Taken worse—

Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent-The Dresses

of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly considered—

Frankish Dress adopted by Turks-"Lebiss Stamboul"-

Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the

Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone

CHAPTER VI.

Misery of being left alone in Sickness-The Hytas-His History—

His Habits and peculiar Cookery-Illusions and Vagaries of

Delirium-Reception by the Hadjee of the truant Servants-

Visit of the Armenian Bishop-Mussulman Fast-How the

Kavass of Mr. Layard kept it-His exploit at Van-Interior of

the Church-The Chapels-Trading in the East-Monks of the

Convent-Armenians-Their good and bad Qualities--Oppro-

56

80

CONTENTS.

brious Terms used by Turks against Christians-Gathering

Harvest-Character of the Christians of the East-Return to

Van-Turkish Doctors-Their Carousals-Taken by the Pasha

to his Country-house-His Opinion on the Affairs of Turkey-

Antiquity of Armenia as a Kingdom-Its present Power-

Servant beaten by Soldiers-How that Injury was redressed—

Leave Van-The Hasnedara of the Pasha-How his Memory of

me was to be kept lively-Pass several Villages-The Monastery

of Yavik

vii

PAGE

99

CHAPTER VII.

Island of Chifis Kloster-Axbraf-Myriads of Gnats-Abundance

of Aquatic Birds on the Lake-Large Cemetery-Dispute as to

its Occupants between the Hadjee and the Armenian-Re-

flections in Illness-Fascinations of Travel-Spirit of Inde-

pendence it engenders-Variety of Scene-Girl's Advice to me

-The Veil, how regarded in ancient times-Disappointed in

finding Ruins-Serpent Rocks-Visit from two Priests, who

prove Job's comforters-Admiration by Villagers of the Russian

Rule-Autana, the Holy Island-The Old Man and his Legends

-Past Grandeur-Plain of Ardisch-Swarms of Locusts-Tent

pitched in a Prairie-Visit from Isman Bey-His Visit returned

-Furniture of his Tent-Shields and Spears of the Koords-

Mollah of Komdingars-His Gratitude for a trifling Present-

The Hadjee disputes with some Koords-Armenians on Route

for the Frontier-Arrive at Patnos-Fight between the Hadjee

and a Christian-Its Cause -How settled-Present Appearance

of Patnos-Its Buildings-Houses at Karakone-Its present

Aspect-Wonder of the ex-Bey that Englishmen should study

-Turkish Confidence in Christians as Guards of the Harem-

Its Cause-Karaka-Difference of Demeanour in Slaves and

Freemen-Arrival at Melasguird

CHAPTER VIII.

The Town of Melasguird-Some Account of an eccentric Dervish

-Kulitcher-People of the Village-Return of Illness-Sus-

picions of Robbery-The Chief detected and punished-Ren-

contre with the Groom-Unveiled Eastern Women-Careless-

ness of Eastern Parents as to the Cleanliness of their Children-

Kindness of Women at a Village-A wretched Altar-piece-

Welcome Verdure-Obstinacy of the Guide-His Dismissal and

Repentance-Boorish Koords-Journey pursued under increas-

ing Illness-Reach Hassan Kaleh-Armen to Khan-At length

reach Erzeroum-Kind Reception by the Consul and his Wife

-Care and Skill of Dr. Birge-My Recovery-Third conjec-

tured Site of Eden-Which was probably the Site?-Domestic

127