only as the wood itself wears and does not scratch, craze, or chip. This finish material, especially when waxed, imparts a pleasing velvety sheen to the floor. It resists the action of water and other common stains. Worn spots may be refinished without noticeably showing laps or contrast.

B. Varnish.-This product forms a very durable surface coat and gives a glossy appearance. Quick drying varnishes have been on the market for a number of years, so that the time element is no longer an important factor in the use of varnish. It resists the action of water and other common stains. While high-quality varnish is more expensive than some types of finishes, the long-wearing qualities and satisfaction gained from the enduring beauty of the finish will be found by many users to more than offset the cost element.

C. Lacquer is sometimes preferred for a hardwood-floor finish because it is durable and provides a glossy finish. It resists the action of water and other common stains. It dries very rapidly-which in some instances is a desirable factor. Patching worn spots is relatively easy with lacquer because it dissolves the original coat of lacquer, showing no noticeable line of demarkation. However, by reason. of its rapid drying, lacquer requires considerable skill in application. High-quality lacquer is more expensive than some types of finishes, but its desirable qualities are found by many users to offset this point. D. Shellac. This product is most often used where cost is a factor; also because it is very easily applied, has high transparency, and dries very quickly with a high gloss. Shellac is moderately durable but will give satisfactory service if kept waxed and not subjected to too much abrasion. It has moderate resistance to water and other types of stains.

WAX

For residential floors, wax is most desirable, because, first, it further enhances the beauty of both the floor and the finish material and, second, it simplifies floor maintenance. The wax itself takes a part of the wear. Furthermore, any dust or dirt that accumulates on the floor will first become embedded in the wax-a favorable feature, since dirty wax is easily removed and new wax readily applied. As indicated previously, wax if used on heavy-duty floors should preferably be of a nonslip type.

REFINISHING USED HARDWOOD FLOORS 5

It is assumed that originally all hardwood floors were given some type of finish. Consequently to refinish a used hardwood floor will involve one of the following procedures:

(1) Mere surface cleaning if only the finish material is dirty, and only slightly worn.

(2) Refinishing over old finish if the old finish material is only generally deteriorated from aging and repeated cleanings.

(3) Removal of old finish material if the finish is badly worn and in poor condition but the floor itself is in good condition.

(4) Complete refinishing, including sanding, if the hardwood floor itself is worn and scarred from severe wear.

15 This section is based in part upon The Care of Floors, National Bureau of Standards. Letter Circular LC 388 (August 8, 1933).

Figure 17.-Innumerable designs are readily obtainable with parquet flooring. Figured hardwoods, such as shown in the above pictures, are often used for this purpose.

SURFACE CLEANING

Penetrating-sealed, varnished, lacquered, or shellacked floors which have never been waxed should be dusted clean with a soft brush or dry mop, and then rubbed with an oil-treated mop or a cloth slightly moistened with furniture polish, kerosene, turpentine, or mineral spirits. In general, hardwood floor surfaces should not be treated with water, but if badly soiled they may be wiped with a mop or cloth wrung out of warm, slightly soapy water, then with a rag or mop moistened with clear water, wiped dry at once and polished with an oil-treated mop or cloth.

Waxed hardwood floors (whether sealed, varnished, lacquered, or shellacked) may be cleaned with a soft brush or mop free from oil (since oil softens the wax). The film of dirt and wax which darkens the surface may be removed with a cloth wrung out of warm, soapy water.18 The use of a rag moistened with gasoline, turpentine," or mineral spirits, would be equally suitable. This procedure, in actuality, removes part or all the wax, necessitating rewaxing. Gasoline and turpentine brighten as well as clean the surface, whereas water dulls and whitens wax. If a water-cleaning method has already whitened a wax floor, the luster and color may be restored by rubbing with a woolen cloth or a weighted brush; if necessary, a little wax may be applied. Many kinds of spots on waxed floors may be removed by rubbing with a little turpentine or gasoline and refinishing with a very thin coat of wax.

REFINISHING OVER OLD FINISH

Probably one of the most common methods of refinishing a floor is to use the penetrating seal, varnish, lacquer, or shellac over the original finish. It is usually necessary to use the same type of finish material as originally used, this being particularly essential in the case of lacquer. This is satisfactory provided all wax and dirt are carefully removed, as discussed in the preceding section on surface cleaning. Some proprietary cleaners contain wax and therefore leave a wax film. Such cleaners must never be used in refinishing. The application of finish, followed by waxing, is the same as in finishing a new floor.

REMOVAL OF OLD FINISH MATERIAL

Removing varnish, lacquer, or shellac from floors with "removers" must be done carefully so as not to damage the finish on baseboards and moldings. The commercial "solvent type" removers are satisfactory for this purpose and are labeled with instructions for using. Follow instructions implicitly.

18 There are available today many excellent "cleaners" which are not as strong as "removers,' but are very helpful in cleaning the floor of spots and discolorations and in removing wax, etc. Manufacturers' instructions describe the use and methods of using these "cleaners."

17 Gasoline, turpentine, acetone, and many other volatile organic solvents are very inflammable. In using these solvents or preparations containing them, care should be taken to have good ventilation and to avoid open flames or smoking in the rooms or other spaceS. Oily and greasy rags should be immediately destroyed after using or kept in closed metal containers. Animal and vegetable oils are the most likely to cause spontaneous combustion.

In general this mixture is applied to the surface with a brush and allowed to stand for a period of time. The old finish will soften so that it can be scraped off with a standard paint scraper or a putty knife. When a putty knife is used as a scraper, it will prove more effective if the end of the blade is ground to a sharp edge. By holding the putty knife in a vertical position and scraping across the grain of the wood, there is no danger of slivering the floor. Removers-if they contain inflammable materials-should be used only where there is good ventilation and should be kept away from open flame of any kind.

This method, although often employed, is very laborious, and it is suggested that complete refinishing, including sanding, might well be used, with greater success and satisfaction.

COMPLETE REFINISHING, INCLUDING SANDING

This method will usually result in a floor which cannot be distinguished from a brand-new floor. The old finish is removed by scraping by hand or sanding by machine. After the floor has been swept clean the floor is smoothly sanded, filled, and finished the same as a new floor.

When a hardwood floor is noticeably stained or discolored, bleaches such as oxalic acid solution (oxalic acid is a poison if taken internally) may be used. The bleach is washed on the floor, followed by a rinse of clear water. As usual, be careful, in using water or liquid solutions on wood floors, not to allow the water to remain on the floor any longer than is necessary.