hove-to off a port or running for one in thick weather. Thus a number of vessels in the South-west monsoon have run into Hu-i-tau bay instead of Amoy; and again in the North-east monsoon have picked themselves up off Red bay instead of Chapel island. The current will slack a little at particular times of tide, but it is seldom found to run to the south in the southerly monsoon, or to the north in the other. At the Pescadore islands, in the month of August, a current is sometimes experienced of 4 knots per hour, running to the north, whilst with the ebb it slackens for two or three hours, but seldom ceases entirely.

Currents in North-east Monsoon. The current in the China Sea, during the North-east monsoon, generally runs to the south-westward, with a velocity depending on the strength of the wind. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate breezes, there is often little or no current. In the western parts of the China Sea, along the coasts of Cochinchina and the Malay peninsula, the current generally begins to run to the southward about the middle of October (sometimes sooner on the former coast), and continues until April. During the month of March, its direction is constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with light easterly winds and calms at times. On the coast of Cochinchina, and adjacent to Hainan island, a current, varying from South to S. W., commences sometimes about the middle of September; near the land, from lat. 15° N. to 11° or 114° N., it increases in strength; but its rate decreases in proportion as it flows southward. During the prevalence of the North-east monsoon, from about lat. 14° N. to Cape Padaran, the current near the coast frequently runs 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles to the southward in 24 hours; the rate, however, is variable, and it is only in the limits above mentioned that it is occasionally so strong, for its strength abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the S.W. towards the entrance of the Gulf of Siam.

On the south coast of China, the current during the North-east monsoon runs almost constantly to the W.S.W., nearly parallel to the land; and sometimes with much rapidity, when a typhoong or a storm happens. At the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the coast, it seldom runs so strong as near it; and in 30 or 40 fathoms soundings there is much less current than in shoal water, near the shore and amongst the islands. The westerly current sometimes slacks, and, contiguous to the land, is succeeded by a kind of tide.

Between the island of Formosa and the China coast the current runs to the southward during the North-east monsoon. When strong N.E winds prevail, its direction is generally to the S. W. or southward, between the south end of Formosa and the north end of Luzon; but here, in light variable winds, it often sets to the northward. On the west coast of Luzon the current is changeable, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times northward. On the coast of Palawan it is also mutable, governed by the prevailing winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless impelled by severe gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Botel-tobago sima, it frequently runs strong to the northward and north-eastward, so early as the 1st of March; and, although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction during the South-west monsoon; and in the opposite direction during the North-cast monsoon.

Tides. The tidal wave strikes upon the eastern coast of China, from Hongkong to the Yang-tse-kiang, nearly at the same period; it being high water on full and change days, in the neighbourhood of the Lema islands, at about 8h. 30m., and at the outer islands of the Chusan archipelago it is an hour later. The rise and fall, however, increases considerably to the northward; probably owing to the obstruction which the wave receives from the Philippine islands; and in some instances the diurnal inequality is great.

After passing Breaker point, the coast trends more northerly, and the flood stream will be found useful to vessels bound to the northward. The rise and fall increases, passing from 7 feet at Namoa island to 12 feet at Tongsang, and 20 feet at Amoy. Between Amoy and the river Min, the rise of the tide varies from 16 to 18 feet at the springs, and the flood enters on the north as well as on the south side of Hai-tan strait.

To the northward of the Min, the flood sets more determinately to the north; it seldom, however (unless off headlands or in narrow channels) overcomes the current caused by the monsoon, but has the effect of slackening it.

Passage East of Formosa.-A vessel bound from Hongkong to Ningpo, or Shanghai, or even to Fuhchau, during the North-east monsoon, should be in good condition for contending with rough weather and for carrying sail. The best plan appears to be, to work along the coast as far as Breaker point, and then stretch across to the south end of Formosa, and work up eastward of that island. By remaining in with the coast of China, she will have the advantages of the land wind at night, of smoother water, and the ebb-tide out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her lee on the starboard tack; and in the event of its blowing too hard to make weigh, there are numerous convenient anchorages. It will be prudent to keep within 10 miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward whilst standing off the land; but as this cannot be done at night without risk, a vessel should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the middle watch, when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will enable her to make a good board on the offshore tack. By passing eastward of Formosa, also, a heavy short sea in the Formosa channel will be avoided, as well as the constant set to the southward during the season.

After rounding the south end of Formosa, off which there is often a troublesome sea, caused in a measure by the strong current running through the strait, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep within the influence of the Kuro-siwo or Japan stream, which has sometimes been found running to the northward at the rate of 30 or 40 miles per day. There are no harbours on the east coast of Formosa, except Sú-au bay, towards the north end of the island, and deep water will be found close to the land.

Having weathered the north end of Formosa, it will be still advisable to keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parallel of lat. 30° N. is gained. Should, however, a vessel be driven to the westward, she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able to tide it through the southern part of the Chusan archipelago; and if disabled and in want of spars, she can remain at the southern side of Duffield Pass, and supply herself from the wood junks.

CHAPTER II.

COAST NEAR HAINAN, AND APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER, INCLUDING HONGKONG.

VARIATION 0° 30 EAST IN 1861.

THE surveys of the coast of China and adjacent islands have been made, with trifling exceptions, by the ships of H.B.M.'s navy, which have explored nearly all the shores and harbours from Hongkong to Hakodadi, and their charts and plans serve as the best guides to the navigator throughout this long stretch of coast. The space west of Hongkong, as far as Hainan and the coasts of Annam, have never been regularly surveyed; but measures are now in progress to supply the deficiency; one of the ports lately opened to foreign commerce, Kiung-chau fu lies on the northern side of Hainan, and that island will doubtless develop resources sufficient to invite vessels to its seaport of Hai-kau or Hoihau. In lieu of general observations on this part of the coast of China, the following remarks by Mr Kerr, master of H.M.S. Columbine in 1850, are given as the best guide yet available through the passages to the straits of Hainan and beyond into the gulf of Tonquin.

Nau-chau.—From Tai-fang-kioh (the outer island off Tien-pak) to Nau-chau, is S.W. by W. 40 miles. Nau-chau is about 300 feet high, and well cultivated: it is 9 miles long and 3 broad. Shoals off the Coast.—Strangers should not approach the eastern point of Nau-chau by a course more southerly than W., or W. by S., to avoid the sandbanks on the northern shore. Shoal off N. Point.-The north point of the island is W. by N., five miles, from the eastern, the coast between being full of rocks. Off this point is a dangerous horn of sand; it would therefore be advisable for strangers to get a pilot before proceeding further. This can be done by stopping a fishing-boat, or by anchoring and sending to the town. Low water would be the best time to enter, as then the banks are visible. The town is situated on the western point of the island, which is S. W. by S., six miles from the northern point. Anchorage. Very snug anchorage will be found off the town in a small bay. The bottom is very irregular, having 6.16, 17.5, and so on; and close to the point 30 fathoms, over which you are obliged to pass, to avoid the sandbanks

which border the anchorage on the west side. The Columbine anchored with South Fort N. 57 E., South Point of bay S. 27° E. Rise of tide nine or ten feet.

Passage to Southward has three dangers: these are--the Bar, the Flats, and the Narrows. Bar.-SW. by S., 2 miles from the West point of Nau-chau, the passage is very narrow (not more than 4 or 5 cables), and having only 2 fathoms at low water. Flats.-14 miles south from the same point is an extensive flat, with only 9 or 10 feet on it at low water. It is from 2 to 3 miles broad, frequently impassable from the heavy sea which runs on it when the wind is strong, it being exposed to the whole drift of the N.E. monsoon. Here the Fury touched in 3 fathoms, only drawing 14 feet 7 inches. Narrows. -S. W. 17 miles from the above point, the channel is again very narrow, but with not less than 3 fathoms. This channel is not dangerous, as the water is always smooth, being in the immediate vicinity of the extensive reefs with which the coast in this part is bounded. Anchorage.— Between the Narrows and the Bar, the Columbine and Fury remained at anchor two nights after unsuccessful attempts to cross the flats. From the Narrows, the channel is wide and free from danger. Coast.-The coast from Nau-chau to Hongham is sandhills, with a well wooded country three or four miles inland. W. by S. from the flats is a small bay and town, the only one visible.

Hongham.-S.S.W. 25 miles from Nauchau is Hongham, a small village three miles west from the S.E. point of the peninsula of Luichau. Some junks were at anchor in the bay, but it must be exposed to the N.E. winds.

Kiung-chau fu, Hoi-hau Bay.-S. W. W., 19 miles from Hongham is Hoi-hau bay (formed by the estuary of two small rivers,) on which is situated Kiung-chau fú, the capital of Hainan and its dependencies. Anchorage.—The bay and anchorage is protected on the N.E. side by a sandbank at the mouth of the above river. It is moderately well sheltered, being only 16 miles from the peninsula of Luichau. The Columbine, Fury, and Phlegethon rode out a heavy gale from N.E. by N. without any danger. The holding-ground is good. Bearings from anchorage as follows:-Pagoda in the town S. 55 E; two remarkable hummocks (by which the bay will be recognized) S. 42 W.; and a cone-like rock on the sand-hills at west extreme of bay, W.4S.

Cammee Cape. From Hoihau anchorage to Cammee Cape, the S.W. point of the Peninsula, the course is N. 70 W. 30 miles, without any dangers. Off this point, Columbine anchored in 12 fathoms, point bearing N.E. by N. 4 miles. The pilots said there were rocks and a sandspit off the point. From this the coast extends to N. by W. as far as we saw it (about 30 or 40 miles.)

Hoo-sheak.-25 miles from the point is Hoo-sheak hill (easily recognized being alone ;) to the northward of this is a point with rocks off it. Pilots advised us to go no nearer than 6 fathoms.

Cha-yung Island.-N. 50° W. 48.5 from Cammee cape, is Cha-yung island. It is four or five miles long, and about 500 feet high; it has no anchorage, but a small town in a valley in the centre of the island.

Gui-e-chow Island.-N. 66° W. 15 from Cha-yung is Gui-e-chow; it is

about 7 miles from E. to W. and 400 feet high, the western point being perpendicular. There is an excellent harbour on the southern side; it has a small islet in the centre, but is otherwise clear, sheltered from all points, except from about S.S.E. to E.S.E. Columbine anchored with the islet on with E. point of harbour E.S.E., and the W. point of harbour (the perpendicular head as above) S. W. As marked in the charts, there are two islands in this quarter, but Gui-e-chow is the northern one. Ciu-muci-shan appears to be misnamed.

Pak-loong Cape.-N. 51° W. 58 miles from the point of Gui-e-chow is Pak-loong Cape (this is the Pelung cape of the charts,) the east point of a bay in which is situated the town and harbour of Tukshan. Pak-loong-mi.-S. 5° W. 8 miles from the point is Pak-loong-mi, a rock awash at high water. This rock makes the bay dangerous to approach during the night, as it is so far off shore. Pak-loong Anchorage.-Columbine and Fury anchored outside the shoals, with the Cape bearing N.E. E. distant 6 miles. by shoals on the east, and a low point on the W.; has be obtained.

Harbour is formed fathoms; pilots may

Cow-tow-shan Island.-S. 25° W. 40 miles from Pak-loong cape is the S. point of Cow-tow-shan (the Pirate island of the charts;) on this course there are several islands with passages around them, but strangers should take the outside. On the western side of this island is a magnificent bay, many miles. in extent, and apparently without any dangers. Village. There are a few miserable huts in the bay, where wood and water may be obtained. Chae Rocks.-S. 65° W. 39 miles from Cow-tow-shan, is a large cluster of rocks, some of which are always covered. This course is also not free of islands, Columbine passed to southward of Wunlaun, and found a good passage, but only 1 mile wide. We saw plenty of bullocks (apparently wild) on many of these islands. There is good anchorage near Fung-yung, West 4 or 5 miles from Wunlaun.

Norway Islands.-S. W. 4 or 5 miles from the Chae Rocks is a small group of islands, probably the Norway islands of the chart. Fie-tze-loong.From the Chae Rocks to Oo-nong (a distance of 20 miles) is a most remarkable bay of islets or rocks, of limestone formation (the New Macao of the charts.)

Rock off Oo-nong.-From Chae Rocks to the outside Ninepin off Oo-nong is S. 85 W., 19.5. Sunken Rock.-W. by S. 2 mile from this is a dangerous sunken rock, with only 11 feet on it at low water, and 8 fathoms close to it. Near this are Great and Little Oo-nong, small bays with insignificant villages.

From the rock off Oo-nong to S. point
These islands are off the Tonquin

Tushan Islands or Pearl Island. of Tushan islands, is S. 69° W. 12.5. river. The entrance is obstructed by a bar, which we crossed at high water in 24, 2, and 3; inside the bar the water deepens, and the shore is generally bold, except off the west side, where is an extensive sandbank. In the vicinity of our anchorage were two small towns, Hwá-fung and Cho-keum. Phlegethon visited latter, which is some miles up the river, and had deep water. Tide flows only once in 24 hours.

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