Abbey point, forming the south extremity of the road, may be known by its ragged outline, and by a small wooded eminence, called Wood hill, about 14 mile south of it. The mainland here falls back and forms a bay, which is sheltered by coral reefs extending to the northward from Abbey point; they are, however, disconnected, and between them and the point there is a channel sufficiently deep for the largest ship.

Nearly in the centre of this channel, outside withal, there is a coral bank named Blossom reef, having a good passage on either side of it. The south channel, between it and Abbey point, should be adopted with southerly winds and flood tides, and the Oar channel, between Blossom and Oar reefs, with the reverse. A reef extends from Abbey point to the south-west, and also to the northward. When off Abbey point, Kumi head, a rocky headland, will be seen about 1 mile north of the town; and upon the ridge of high land beyond it are three hummocks to the left of a cluster of trees. In the distance, a little

to the left of these, is Mount Onnodake, in lat. 26° 27 N. A remarkable rock, which from its form has been named Capstan head, will next appear; and then to the northward of the town a rocky head, with a house upon its summit, called False Capstan head. At the back of Capstan head is Sheudi hill, upon which the upper town, the capital of Lu-chu, is built.

Water.-An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk river, where there is excellent landing for boats.

Buoys.—A black spar-buoy was moored on Blossom reef in 1854 half way between its eastern and western extreme; a red spar-buoy on the point of reef to the W.N.W. of Abbey point; and a white spar-buoy on the south-east extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colours were attached to all these buoys, affording good guides for the South and Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to the eastward and westward of the North channel, planted there by the natives, this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the northward.

Directions.-Vessels bound from Hongkong to Great Lu-chu island during the South-west monsoon, should pass through the Formosa channel, giving Pinnacle, Craig, and Agincourt islands, off the north end of Formosa, a safe berth, as there are said to be reefs among them, and the currents are strong and variable in their vicinity. From thence a course should be shaped to pass to the northward of Hoa-pin-su, Tiau-su, and the Raleigh rock, after which haul to the eastward to sight Kume sima, and pass either to the northward or southward of it, Kurama, and the small islet near the latter, but not between them, as reefs are said to have been seen there. If to the northward, give a good berth to Tu sima, a small rocky islet a quarter of a mile in extent, with a reef projecting 1 mile to the northward and about 4 cables in other directions; it is about 80 feet high, much broken, and lies N. by E.JE. 131 miles from the northernmost peak of Kume sima, and W. N. from the centre of Agenhu. Pass to the southward of Agenhu, which will be readily recognized by its bold south point and wedge-shaped appearance. The Kerama group will be seen to the S.S.E., Lu-chu visible on the eastern horizon, and in a short time the Reef islets will heave in sight to the southward and eastward; these

* Lieutenant 11. K. Stevens, U.S. Surveying Expedition, 1857.

latter are low and sandy, slightly covered with vegetation, and surrounded by coral reefs.

During the North-east monsoon, round the south end of Formosa and with the strong current setting to the northward, beat along its eastern shore to the northward and eastward. Pass between Hoa-pin-su and the Meiaco-sima group, and either to the northward or southward of Kume sima; if to the southward, a vessel may hug the northern shores of the Kerama islands, as it is believed there are no hidden dangers near them.

During the typhoong season, however, it is advisable to pass to the southward of Formosa and the Meiaco-sima group, in order to have plenty of sea room, in the event of encountering one of these storms. The passage to the southward of the Kerama islands is clear, with the exception of the Heber reef and Sandy island; the former is said to be a rock 6 feet out of water, surrounded by reefs; the latter to be just above water; and lying respectively W. by S. S. and W. by N. N. 7 miles from the south point of Great Lu-chu.

Vessels bound into the road from the southward may pass close round Cape Yakimu, the south extreme of Great Lu-chu, and sail along the western coast at the distance of 3 or 3 miles, leaving Heber reef and Sandy island to the westward.

Through South Channel.-There are three passages leading into Naphakiang road, named the North, the Oar, and the South channel. To sail into the road by the South channel, between Blossom and Abbey reefs, having well opened Capstan head, haul towards Abbey reef, and bring the right-hand hummock about half a point eastward of Kumi head; this mark will lead through the South channel, in about 7 fathoms, over the tail of the Blossom reef. A vessel may now round Abbey reef tolerably close, and steer for the anchorage in 7 fathoms, about half a mile to the N.N.W. of False Capstan head.* Should the wind veer to the eastward in the passage between Blossom reef and Abbey point, with the above mark on, do not stand to the northward, unless the outer cluster of trees near the extremity of Wood hill is in line with, or open to the westward of Table hill, a square rocky headland to the southward of it. This mark clears also the tongue of Oar reef.

The best anchorage is in Barnpool, at the north-east part of the road, in 7 fathoms water, where a vessel may ride with great security. The outer anchorage would be dangerous with strong westerly gales. H.M S. Blossom anchored there in 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, Abbey bluff bearing S.W 4S., and Capstan head E. by S.4S.

The entrance to Barnpool is between Barn head and the reef off Capstan head. In entering, do not approach Barn head nearer than to bring the north edge of Hole rock in one with the before-mentioned flat clump of trees on the hill south of Sheudi, until the point of the burying ground (Cemetery point)

*Care must be taken to avoid the Ingersoll patches, on which there is only a fathom water. They are inserted in the Admiralty plan of Napha-kiang road as discovered in 1837, and bear from Capstan head WS., and from South fort N. by WW. The French survey of 1846 by the officers of La Sabine does not show these rocks, but three patches having over them respectively 2, 4, and 4 fathoms. From the 2-fathoms patch Abbey point bears S. by W.W., and False Capstan head E. by S.S.; from the 4-fathoms patch Capstan head bears 8 E by EE, and Abbey point S. W W.; and from the 43-fathoms patch Abbey point bears SS, W. W., and False Capstan head S E. by E. E

is seen just clear of false Capstan head. Anchorage may be taken in any part of Barnpool.

The following directions for the South channel are by Lieutenant S. Bent, U.S.N., in 1853, to accompany a plan of Napha-kiang road, on which are marked two patches of only 24 and 14 fathoms water; the former, named Lexington reef, lying W. S., 11 mile from Abbey point; and the latter of 1 fathom, W.S.W. 1 mile from the point:—

The clearest approach to Napha-kiang road from the westward is by passing northward of the Kerama islands and sighting Agenhu island, which will be recognized by its wedge-shaped appearance; from thence steer a S.E. course for the road, passing on either side of the Reef islands, being careful, however, not to approach them too near on the western and southern sides, as the reefs below water in these directions are said to be more extensive than is shown on the chart.

After clearing the Reefs islands, steer for Wood hill on a S.S.E. bearing until getting upon the line of bearing for the south channel. This will lead well clear of the Blossom reef, yet not so far off but that the white tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the southward of Kumi head can be easily distinguished. An E. by N.IN. course now until Abbey point is in one with outer trees will clear S.W. rock, when haul up for Kumi head, and select a berth about half a mile to the northward and westward of False Capstan head. This channel, being quite straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering the harbour than the Oar channel, which, though wider, has the disadvantage of its being necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or five points, just when she is in the midst of reefs which are nearly all below the surface of the

water.

Through Oar Channel.—If the wind be to the north-eastward it will be advisable to beat through the Oar channel, in preference to the South channel. To do this, bring False Capstan head in line with a flat cluster of trees on the ridge to the right of the first gap south of Sheudi. This will clear the north tongue of Blossom reef; but unless Table hill be open eastward of Wood hill, do not stand to the southward, but tack directly the water shoals to less than 12 fathoms, and endeavour to enter with the marks on. Having passed to the N.E. of Blossom reef, which will be known by Wood hill being seen to the right of Table hill, stand towards Abbey point as close as convenient, and on nearing Oar reef take care of a tongue which extends to the eastward of it and of the S.W. rock, and be careful to tack immediately the outer trees of Wood point open with Abbey point. In entering at either of the western channels, remember that the flood-tide sets to the northward, over Blossom reef, and the ebb to the southward.

A good mark to run through this channel is to bring the centre of the island in Junk harbour (known by the deep verdure of its vegetation) to fill the gap between the forts at the entrance of that harbour, and steer a S.E. E. course, until Capstan head bears East, when haul up E.N.E., and anchor as before directed.

Through North Channel.-The North channel into Napha-kiang road is much contracted by a range of detached rocks extending out from the reef on

the west side, and should not under ordinary circumstances be attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs are almost entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of the vessel's exact position, unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. To enter by this channel, bring a remarkable notch in the southern range of hills in line with a small hillock just eastward of False Capstan head, and stand in with this mark bearing S. by E.E. until Kumi head bears E.N., when open a little to the southward, so as to give the reef to the eastward a berth, and select an anchorage.

Sailing from Napha during the North-east monsoon, it will be better to pass round the south end of Great Lu-chu, in order to avoid beating through the Montgomery group, of which there is no reliable survey; they are said to consist of five islands, surrounded by reefs. But with a southerly wind and fine weather it will be to the advantage of a vessel bound to the Bonin islands to pass round the north end of Great Lu-chu, where she will feel the influence of the current, which will assist her to the eastward.

Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Napha-kiang road, at 6h. 30m. and the rise is from 5 to 7 feet.

Barrow Bay is a deep inlet, bounded by shoals, near the middle of the eastern side of Great Lu-chu island. The following description* is by Lieutenant G. B. Balch, of the U.S. ship Plymouth :—

"A reef, of coral formation and bold to approach, commences 5 miles from the south point of Great Lu-chu, and extends in an unbroken chain, outside all the small islands, as far as the north-east point of Ichey island, with the exception of a narrow channel between the islet off the north-east end of Kyoko or Kudaka island, and the island of Taking. Ichey island forms the southeastern point of Barrow bay, which is useless for all purposes of navigation, being exposed to the east winds and ocean swell. There is, however, secure anchorage in about 15 fathoms water on the western sides of Ichey, and of Hanadi, the next islet to the southward; this anchorage is the only place of shelter on the eastern coast of Great Lu-chu.

• From Nautical Remarks by the Officers of the United States Expedition to Japan, 1854.

CHAPTER IX.

ISLANDS NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP, AND OFF THE
SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON.

VARIATION in 1861-Borodino islands, 1° 50' W.; Ladrones islands 2o 40′ E.
Bonin islands, 0° 30' W.; Islands off S.E. coast of Ningpo, 2° 30′ W.

ISLANDS NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP.

To the northward of the Lu-chu group inhabited islands extend in a northerly direction, with many safe channels between them, as far as lat. 30° 51′N. The mariner is, however, cautioned not to place too much dependence either on their configurations or positions, as shown on the chart of this part of the ocean, for they are by no means correct: they are from Japanese as collated by Siebold, and from detached surveys and corrections by English, French, and American navigators. The French corvette La Sabine examined them in the year 1846; their positions, to which we have given the native names and restored those of former explorers,* appear on the chart of her track to be as follows: t

Yori Sima, or Julo of Basil Hall in 1816, centre, lat. 27° 2′ N., long. 128° 25′ 24′′ E.

Yeirabu Sima of Siebold, or Wukido of Basil Hall, south peak, lat. 27° 21' N., long. 128° 31′ 34′′ E., height 889 feet, (lat. 27° 14′ N., long. 128° 33′ by Collinson in 1845.)

Tok Sima of Siebold, or Crown island of Broughton, in 1797, highest peak lat. 27° 44' N., long. 128° 59' E.; height, 2,461 feet. The northern peak is 2,034 feet above the sea; a village is built on its north-west face. This island is 14 miles long north and south, and 7 miles east and west.

All three of the above islands are well wooded, and appear to be inhabited. Iwo Sima, or Sulphur island, in lat. 27° 51' N., long. 128° 14′ E. (128° 19' E. by Collinson ;) height, 541 feet; is a volcanic mountain still in action. Oho Sima, or Harbour island, is the largest island lying between Great Lu-chu and Japan. It is about 30 miles in length, in a N.E. and S.W. direction, is high, well cultivated, and, from the number of villages seen along the coast, must contain a large population. There are two peaks upon its south end, 1,674 and 1,420 feet respectively above the sea.

It is greatly to be regretted that navigators will not endeavour to ascertain the names of places as given by the natives; or, failing these, that they will not retain the names affixed to islands by the first discoverers. In the present case there are three and occasionally four names for each of the islands in this archipelago. So long as this practice is pursued, our charts will remain a maze of confusion.

† See Chart of Islands between Formosa and Japan, No. 2,412.