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There is a harbor master, pilot, and a quarantine officer. Pilotage is advisable but not compulsory. There are hotels, a hospital, and good general stores in Lihue, 2 miles inland. Fresh water is available at the dock, also gasoline and fuel oil. A 200-horsepower towboat is stationed at Ahukini. There are no dry docks.

Hanamaulu River empties into the bay of the same name. It is not navigable.

The coast between Wailua and Nawiliwili Bay consists of a series of low bluffs, with here and there stretches of sand beaches. There are no off-lying dangers. Sugarcane is extensively_cultivated.

Kaulakahi, or Niihau Channel, lies between Kauai and Niihau, and is about 141⁄2 miles wide and clear of obstructions. The trade winds follow the south coast of Kauai, and off Mana Point meet the air current that has followed around the northerly side. The trade winds blow directly across the lowlands of Niihau, but part of it is deflected southward and around the southeast point of Niihau.

Currents. It is almost impossible to lay down any rules for the current, which somtimes sets southward along the east coast of Niihau at the same time that it is setting northwestward along the southwesterly coast of Kauai. During kona weather these conditions are changed.

NIIHAU (CHART 4117)

the seventh in size of the islands, is at the westerly end of the group. It is about 16 miles long in a northeast-southwest direction and varies in width from 3 to 5 miles. Near the middle of the island there is a high tableland with low projecting cones, or peaks, of which Paniau Peak, 1,281 feet (390 m) high, is the highest. The northerly and easterly ends of the tableland are precipitous, varying in height from 600 to 1,000 feet (183 to 305 m), while the southerly and westerly slopes are gradual. There are no streams on the island. A single ranch, devoted to stock raising, furnishes the sole occupation of the inhabitants. By the census of 1930, Niihau had a population of 136.

Communication.-There is no regular communication with Niihau, but local steamers call infrequently for cattle and wool. There is no telegraph or radio communication. A dirt road extends from the southern end of the island along the western shore to Kii. Lehua Island, about 1/2 mile northward of Niihau, is a small, rocky, crescent-shaped island, open northward. The easterly and westerly points are low, rising gradually to an elevation of about 702 feet (214 m) near the center of the island. On the westerly point of the island there is a natural arch. Lehua Channel, between Niihau and Lehau, is restricted on its southerly side by rocks showing above water, which extend about half-way across it. This channel affords a depth of 7 fathoms (12.8 m) and in passing through it, the Lehua Island side should be favored, keeping about 350 yards from the Lehua shore. In heavy northwest weather the swells all but break in the passage, and as but little is to be gained by the channel, vessels should pass outside of Lehua.

To the eastward of this passage steamers should give the north coast of Niihau a berth of 12 mile, while to the west the clearance should be about 1 mile. The current through this passage varies

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with the tide and runs in both directions, with a maximum velocity of about 111⁄2 knots. Lehua Rock Light (flashing white) marks the highest point of Lehua Island.

Puukole Point, the north point of Niihau Island, is low, as is Kikepa Point, 1 mile eastward. Between these points and the high bluffs marking the northerly side of the tableland, the land is low and grass-covered with a few low hills. From a distance this lowland is not seen, and Lehua Island appears to stand off 31⁄2 miles from Niihau.

Kaunuopou Point, 211⁄2 miles southeastward of the north end of the island, is the easternmost point of Niihau. Kaunuopou Rocks, over which the seas break, lie 300 yards off the point. Another rock, located about % mile off the south side of the point, usually breaks and should be given a good berth when approaching Kii.

Kii Landing, a small bight about 5% mile west of Kaunuopou Point, is only slightly protected from the trade winds. It affords a landing during ordinary weather but cannot be used during southerly weather. The landing is built on beach bowlders and has only 2 or 3 feet (0.6 or 0.9 m) of water. Anchorage may be had in about 8 fathoms (14.6 m) coral bottom, about 5% mile off the landing. About 1/4 miles southward of Kii Landing a reef with 2 fathoms (3.7 m) over it extends 1/2 mile offshore and is usually breaking. The 10-fathom (18.3 m) curve is about 1 mile offshore here. From the vicinity of the reef to Pueo Point the coastline consists of cliffs reaching a height of 1,000 feet (305 m).

Pueo Point, 5 miles southward of Kii Landing, is a prominent, brown, precipitous bluff about 800 feet (244 m) high. Southwestward from Pueo Point the coastline consists of bluffs broken by small bights, most of which have short, sand, or pebble beaches where boats could land during smooth weather. These bluffs continue for a distance of 42 miles, gradually diminishing in height to the lowlands of the southern half of the island.

The lowland of the southern part of the island is broken by two hills-Cape Kawaihoa at the south end and Kawaewae, which is a gently rounded hill 315 feet (96 m) high, 4 miles north of Cape Kawaihoa and 114 miles from the west coast. The coast between Pueo Point and Cape Kawaihoa has no known dangers, the few isolated rocks being very close to shore. From Cape Kawaihoa northward for 6 miles the east coast consists of a series of low bluffs about 15 feet (4.6 m) high, with stretches of sand beaches, a few sand dunes, and scattered trees.

Cape Kawaihoa, the southernmost point of Niihau, is formed by a hill 548 feet (167 m) high, the seaward face of which is steep. From a distance the hill appears as an island and can easily be mistaken for Kaula. There is deep water close to the cape. About 2 miles south of the cape there is a prevailing westerly current which reaches a velocity of about 12 knots. From Cape Kawaihoa the coast gradually curves westward and northward and is low and rocky with short sand beaches in places. At Leahi Point, 134 miles westward of the cape, the 10-fathom (18.3 m) curve is 5% mile offshore. Kamalino, 4 miles northwestward of the cape, is an abandoned village with a few houses still standing. The coast between Kamalino and Puukole Point is practically one low, continuous beach, with an occasional group of rocks. Near the beach are numerous

sand dunes covered with sparse vegetation. A dirt road skirts the western side of the island

Nonopapa Landing, 51⁄2 miles northwestward of Cape Kawaihoa, is marked by a large dark shed and derrick on a short concrete retaining wall, at the north end of a long sand beach. Local steamers call here occasionally for the island produce of stock, wool, and honey. Anchorage may be had in 8 fathoms (14.6 m), coral and sand bottom, with the center of the shed and Kaeo Cone in range and bearing 70° true (NE. by E. 4 E. mag.), the derrick 660 yards distant. Kawaewae hill, previously mentioned, is about 12 miles distant and bears 135° true (SE. by E. mag.) from this anchorage. Kaeo Cone is a low cone near the center of the tableland, and from the anchorage shows on the skyline. The landing itself is somewhat protected by a small reef extending southwest from the end of the retaining wall, for a distance of about 75 yards. Small boats approaching the landing head south of it until the reef is rounded. The landing is used only from May to September, as during the winter months there is often a heavy northerly swell. The natives of the island live in a small village about 2 miles northeast of the landing. Kuakumoku Rock, 112 miles north of Nonopapa Landing, is a large single rock about 4 feet (1.2 m) above water and located near the center of a reef some 200 yards in diameter. This is about 550 yards offshore and should be given a berth of 11⁄2 mile. Only small boats should attempt the passage inside of this reef. About 11⁄2 mile southward of the rock a reef extends 1/4 mile offshore, and 3 miles northeastward of the rock a reef extends 1/2 mile offshore. Kaununui Point, 534 miles northeastward of Nonopapa, is marked by a group of rocks a few feet high and close to the shore. A coral reef with 6 fathoms (11 m) over it lies 12 miles off the point and 6 miles 231° true (SW. 1⁄2 S. mag.) of Lehua Island. It is reported that the reef breaks in heavy weather. The bottom from this reef shoreward is coral and is fairly uniform for a distance of 1 mile when it shoals gradually to the beach. The passage inside of this reef is not recommended except for small boats.

Keawanui Bay is no more than a slight curve in the shore line from Kaununui Point for 3 miles northeastward. The bay has a sand and coral bottom and a sandy shore. A rock with only 2 feet (0.6 m) over it lies in the southwestern part of the bay 12 mile offshore and 34 mile northeastward of Kaununui Point.

From the northern side of the bay to Puukole Point (the north end of the island) the coast is foul for a distance of 5% mile from shore. Vessels should keep 1 mile offshore. About 134 miles southwestward of Puukole Point and 5% mile offshore is a reef with 16 feet (4.9 m) of water over it; % mile south by west of this reef and 5% miles offshore is a rock with 5 feet (1.5 m) of water over it. Kaula, about 19 miles southwestward of Niihau, is a small, bare, rocky islet 550 feet (168 m) high. It is marked by a flashing white light on a white skeleton tower on the highest part of the islet. A rock with a least depth of 5 fathoms (9.1 m) lies 334 miles 300° true (WNW. 14 W. mag.) from the highest point of Kaula. A bank with depths from 30 to 40 fathoms (55 to 73 m) extends for 5 miles northwestward from the islet. Vessels have anchored close to both the south and east sides of Kaula in about 20 fathoms (37 m), but as the islet is only about 3/4 mile long, there is but little protection.

83

REEFS AND ISLANDS WESTWARD OF KAUAI

NIHOA OR MODU MANU (BIRD ISLAND) (CHART 4000)

is a barren, rocky island about 133 miles 297° true (WNW. 5% W. mag.) of the westerly end of Kauai, in latitude 23°03′29′′ N., longitude 161°55'25" W. The island is about 3/4 mile long and averages a little more than 4 mile in width. The easterly, northerly, and westerly sides of the island are high and precipitous, while the southerly side is much lower and its slopes are more gradual. The greatest elevation is Millers Peak, near the northwesterly end of the island, which is 910 feet (277 m) high. Tanager Peak, near the northeasterly end, is 874 feet (266 m) high.

The southeast and southwest sides of the island terminate at points forming a bay known as Adams Bay. There are three small bights in this bay, the westerly one having a sand beach, while the shores of the other two are rock ledges. The middle cove is probably the best landing place; however, the rise and fall of the swell is considerable and great care must be taken in landing anywhere on the island. A steep trail from the middle cove leads to the top of the bluff. At the foot of the bluff there is a seepage of water which is not suitable for drinking purposes except in emergencies. There is deep water close to all sides of the island.

The island is uninhabited, and, except for the seepage mentioned in the preceding paragraph, no water can be obtained. The island is of historic interest, and the low stone walls of ancient ceremonial sites still remain. Many stone images and other evidence of past visitations have been removed to the Bishop Museum in Honolulu. The island is the resort of many sea birds of several species.

Nihoa is near the southwesterly end of a bank which is about 20 miles long and 14 miles wide, with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms (37 to 55 m). Another bank, the center of which is about 18 miles west by south from Nihoa, is about 17 miles long and 12 miles wide and has depths of 16 to 24 fathoms (29 to 44 m). Other banks eastward and westward of Nihoa have least depths of 32 fathoms (59 m). The edges of these banks break down steeply to great depths. They are all shown on chart 4000.

Anchorage. The safest anchorages are between the 15- and 20fathom (27.4 and 37 m) curves westward and southwestward of the island. There is some tendency to drag anchor here.

Currents. The prevailing current is westerly south of the island and northwesterly to northerly west of the island. Westerly currents of about 11⁄2 knots have been observed during normal trade-wind weather.

NECKER ISLAND (CHART 4000)

is a rocky island lying about 158 miles 282° true (W. 1% N. mag.) of Nihoa, in latitude 23°34′41′′ N.; longitude 164°42'22" W. The island is approximately 34 mile long in an east and west direction and is less than 1 mile wide. It is made up entirely of lava rock, and has four peaks or hills, one near each end and two between; the highest, Summit Hill, is near the middle of the island and is 277 feet (84 m) high. Annexation Hill, 249 feet (76 m) high, at the southwestern end of the island, is separated from the other hills by

84

REEFS AND ISLANDS

a low saddle, making it from a distance appear detached. The sides

of the island are

alongside.

Cove and East Cove (Shark Bay). These two coves are the best
A rocky spur extends northward from the west end, forming West
landing places, but there are times when it is impossible to land any
where on the island. Shark Bay is open to the northeast trades and
is usually filled with breakers. A small, detached, low rock extends
about 100 yards off the eastern point of the island.

precipitous, with 5 to 8 fathoms (9.1 to 14.6 m)

I like Nihoa, shows unmistakable evidence of ancient habitation.
The island, which might well be called a rock, is uninhabited, but,
There is a sparse growth of low brush on the upper slopes of the
hills. At certain seasons of the year some water may be found
in a small ravine which makes down from the southeastern side
of the island. Other small seepages of unpalatable water have been
reported. The island is the home of countless sea birds.

Necker Island is near the northern end of a bank about 42 miles
long in a northwesterly direction. The bank is about 15 miles wide,
and has depths of from 9 to 25 fathoms (16.5 to 46 m). The sand
and coral bottom is plainly visible.

Anchorage.-Vessels can anchor in about 12 fathoms (21.9 m) 1⁄2 mile south of the southwestern point of the island. The island is so small that it offers but little protection.

Tide. The rise and fall of the tide is about 2 feet (0.6 m).

Current. The prevailing current is westerly, but close to the island countercurrents may be expected.

Winds.-September is said to be the calmest month of the year; strong north and northeast winds prevail during the other months.

lying 85 miles 278° true (W. 14 S. mag.) of Necker Island, is a crescent-shaped atoll with a number of small, bare, sand islets on it. It is about 17 miles long in a north-northwesterly direction, and about 12 miles wide at the southern side. In addition to the sand islets, the shoal has numerous coral heads and reefs, over which the seas generally break, with areas of deeper water between.

FRENCH FRIGATE SHOAL (CHART 4000)

La Perouse

of the crescent, on the west side of the shoal, in latitude 23°46′01′′N.; wide, and is 122 (37 m) feet high. It lies midway between the points Pinnacle is a volcanic rock islet about 60 yards long and 20 yards longitude 166°15'47" W. The islet is so steep and rugged that it is lies just off the westerly end of the islet. La Perouse Pinnacle is visible for 8 or more miles, and from a distance resembles a brig under of breakers, bear 166° true (SSE. 14 E. mag.) and 310° true (NW. by sail. The points of the crescent, as indicated by the ends of the line A small detached rock about 9 feet (2.7 m) high

almost inaccessible.

W. 3% W. mag.) from La Perouse Pinnacle.

Perouse Pinnacle, is a low sand islet 600 yards long in a north westEast Island, 3 miles 69° true (NE. by E. 1% E. mag.) from La rly direction and 100 yards wide. It is about 10 feet (3 m) high, es a scattering of low weeds, and, like all the islets of this group, is nesting place of sea birds and turtles. A reef, awash most of the e, extends 14 miles westward from East Island, and another ex

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