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the cool, briny air steals over the fertile and sultry plains like Valor bracing Love.
Here some of the happiest months of Shelley's life were spent. He loved to go forth in his boat alone upon this bay and commune with himself in the moonlight. Here he enjoyed during the last year of his existence, the society of a few cherished associates, and here his wife and friends vainly awaited, in agonizing suspense, his return from that fatal expedition to Pisa whither he had gone to welcome Hunt to Italy.
It was between the Arno and Serchio that Shelley's boat went down, and on the pre near Via Reggio, that his body was burned under the auspices of Lord Byron.
• A restless impulse urged him to embark
How appropriate to the beach of Spezia are his touch. ing lines, written near Naples :
'I see the deep's untrampled floor
With green and purple sea-weed strown : I see the waves upon the shore
Like light dissolved in star-showers thrown : I sit upon the sands alone,
The lightning of the noontide ocean Is flashing round me, and a tone
Arises from its measured motion, How sweet did any heart now share in my emotion.'
“ The ocean-wave thy wealth reflected.”
• The beauty of an Italian sunset has not been exagger. ated either by the pencil of Claude, or the pen of the poets,' I musingly affirmed, while loitering down a long curying declivity, in the twilight of a warm summer evening. The farthest range of hills my eager vision could descry, were bathed in a rich purple, occasionally verging to a dark blue tint, the adjacent sea glowed with saffron hues, while the horizon wore the aspect of molten gold, fading towards the zenith, to a pale amber. The pensive whistle of the vetturino came softened by the distance to my ear. Before me was the far-stretching road, and around the still and lonely hills. A few hours previous, we had left the little town of Borghetti, and on the ensuing day, anticipa. ted repose within the precincts of that city, which enriched with the spoils of a splendid commerce and brilliant maritime adventure, so long boasted the title of superb; that city whose neighborhood gave birth to Columbus, and who prides herself, in these more degenerate times, in having produced the prince of fiddlers. The wide sweeping chain of the Appenines we had traversed, is covered with rough bushes, the most meagre vegetation, and so rock-ribbed as to have rendered the construction of the road an enterprise of extreme difficulty. For a long distance there is no sign of life, but the venerable looking goats clambering about in search of subsistence, and the children that tend them, whose air and faces are painfully significant of premature responsibility. Sometimes we came in sight of the sea, calm as crystal, and dotted with a few distant sails. It was easy to realize the bleak and dangerous ride to which the traveller is here exposed in winter. But the succeeding morning displayed a new and richer vegetation. Aloes and fig.trees, remind one of Sicily, a fresemblance which the vicinity of the Medi. terranean enhances. The first part of the day's ride, lies along the margin of the water, and afterwards chiefly over verdant hills, which often slope down to the shore. The gulf of Sesto, as you withdraw from it, appears singularly graceful. Its beach has a most symmetrical curve. So placid was the water, that the town of St. Margueritto, seen from above, was perfectly reflected as in a mirror, and the picture resembled a miniature Venice., The scenery throughout the ride, is remarkably variegated; and the garniture of the country sufficiently blended between vegetable gardens, olive and fig orchards, and wild trees to render it pleasingly various. Several grottoes are passed which are plastered over interiorly, in order to prevent the springs from dripping ; but the lover of the picturesque, cannot but wish they had been left rough-hewn like those of the Simplon. From the last of these, Ge. noa is seen far below on the borders of the sea. The view is not comparable with that on approaching it by water. It gives no idea of majesty. Clusters of lemon and orange line the remainder of the way, as well as innumerable villas admirably exposed to the sea-breeze, but as usual, lacking the vicinity of trees—a charm which rural taste can scarcely consent to yield, even though the deficiency is supplied by inviting verandahs.
There are decided maritime features, even upon first entering Genoa. The mixed throng, the sun-burnt faces, the garb and even the manners of the lower order, imme. diately bespeak a sea-port. From the extreme narrowness of the streets, much of the actual beauty and richness of the city is hid from the gaze. Even the numerous palaces do not at first strike the stranger, situated as they frequently are, in thoroughfares so confined as to afford no complete view of their façades. Many a pretty garden and cool arbor is placed upon a roof so lofty, or a terrace so secluded, as to be wholly concealed from observation, yet affording retired and delightful retreats, overlooking the bay, and no less attractive to the meditative recluse or the secret lovers, from being far above the crowd and out of sight of the curious,—the country in the very heart of the city, a garden independent of territory! Many of the peculiarities of Genoa, are fast losing themselves in modern improvements. The streets are widening ev. ery year, and carriages, once quite unknown, are coming daily in vogue. There is something here congenial with the alleged sinister tastes of the Italians. The finest caffé is in an obscure street. One is continually stumbling upon luxurious arrangements, and agreeable nooks,
where he least expects them; and the narrow lanes, the hue of the marble, and the marine odors bring constantly to mind the rival republic of the Adriatic. The churches are far more rich in frescos and marble, than any other work of art. In that of the Scuola Pia, however, there are some exquisite basso-relievos by a Genoese. In one of them the face of Mary is very sweet and graceful. The palaces are the chief attraction of Genoa. In one we admire the profusion of gold and mirrors, with which the lofty saloons are decorated ; in another the magnificent stair-case; here the splendid tints of the marble floor, and there the fine old family portraits. These noble and princely dwellings, eloquently speak to the stranger of the wealth, luxury and taste, which once prevailed here; nor judging by one example, should I imagine that their em. pire had ceased. Having occasion to seek an old baron well known for his liberal taste, after roaming over his immense garden, till weary of peeping into arbors and temples, I found him in a cool grotto at breakfast with a party of artists. His beautiful domain was once an ancient fortress. All the earth was transported thither, and he has spared no pains to make it a paradise. On every pretty knoll he has placed a bower or statue. Busts of departed sages are reared beside murmuring fountains. One little building is appropriated to his library; another to scientific apparatus. One terrace rises above another, bedecked with rose bushes and fragrant shrubs. From this point you behold a beautiful vista, and from that look down upon the public walk, around upon the city, or far away on the wide blue sea. I would not recommend an