VISIT TO THE VOLCANO OF HAWAII.

•A

BY A SAILOR.

T daylight I left my ship to join a party on shore, who were arranging for a visit to the volcano of Hawaii. I selected a horse, and with several friends and naval officers were soon upon our journey. A troop of Kanakers made part of our train, carrying all our provisions, apparel, &c., packed in calabashes. We proceeded on briskly a short time, until our road became too rugged to allow of fast trotting, when a part of our company had to return for better horses. A heavy shower of rain began to fall, and we soon gladly halted at a native lodge, to rest and await their return. Upon their joining us we started for the half-way house, which we did not reach until four o'clock P. M., completely saturated with the rain, which had been falling in torrents for the last two hours. We now stood anxiously looking for the arrival of the natives with the calabashes of dry clothes, and often heard the inquiry from the ladies within the house, "Have the natives come?" After a while they all came, when, changing our raiment, and partaking of a good hot supper, cheerfulness prevailed; our wet clothes were arranged by the fire, and we retired for the night, wishing to take an early start on the morrow. The house was of native construction, having one very large room, in which a field-bed runs the entire length. Two apartments were made by running a curtain through the middle. We slept soundly, and awoke to find the weather threatening. After partaking of a good breakfast, we, however, remounted our horses; the morning assumed a brighter appearance, and we journeyed cheerfully onward.

Our road, or rather path, soon struck on the Java rock, which became very trying for our horses' feet, they not being shod. A barren scene was presented to the eye, as but little vegetation was here visible. Passing from this we entered an exceedingly dense forest, where our romantic path was scarcely wide enough for a single horseman. Here were large trees of the native "Koa," around which beautiful vines twined themselves. Gay and odoriferous wild flowers were smilingly peeping out occasionally from their luxurious beds of evergreen mosses; cool brooks were everywhere seen bubbling

across

our path. These, with the loud clear notes of the many bright-feathered songsters, as they sweetly warbled out their morning carols of praise to God, all tended to fill the mind with delight, and lead to an admiration of the hand that formed the world.

Emerging from this wild and beautiful spot, by a sudden turn in the ascent we found ourselves on the verge of an extensive plain, completely covered by the high fern from which the native "pulu" is taken, so highly prized for beds. Our company had by this time become separated, some in the rear and some in advance. In the distance we espied two horses standing, with their riders by their side. Supposing them to be of our party, we saluted them with a loud shout; but on coming nearer we discovered our mistake. They proved to be a venerable old padre, with his crucifix suspended from his neck, with a companion of an inferior order. They were on a return from a visit to some of their mission stations; they had lost the key of their carpet-bag, and were looking for it when we first saw them. They told us the hour, and that some of our party had passed them some time before. Touching our hats we started on, quickening our pace as dark clouds rolled above us, ominous of an approaching shower. Our road was now good, and by a short curve we soon came in sight of a house and our advanced party, reclining on the grass at the edge of the old crater, while their weary steeds were standing mopishly by their sides. They appeared entirely enveloped in dense clouds of steam, which arose from almost every fissure of the earth, there being many over which we were riding. We joined them on a gallop, and were struck with surprise as we gazed down into a vast amphitheater of ten miles in circumference, and seemingly hundreds of feet in depth. Its bed was formed of cold lava, which, in many places, was crossed by deep fissures, from which hot steam was ascending in clouds. Wearied with travel, we concluded to wait until morning before we made a descent.

An excellent supper, a pleasant chat, &c., and we retired to rest; the ladies in the house, and the gentlemen in a smaller one situated a short distance down the banks of the crater. At sundown, some one outside thought he could discern, through the clouds of smoke and steam, a

horse and rider. Expecting to meet at this place the Rev. Mr. T. and Miss F. on their return from the other side of the island, all joined in the cry, "They are coming." We looked in vain, for no Mr. T. made his appearance, though each of us strained our eyes to discover their approaching forms. And no very flattering compliments were paid to the one who had raised the "false alarm." A heavy misty dawn greeted us on waking, which gave evident signs of a rainy day.

Long were the faces at the breakfast table; the older ones talking of prudence in bad weather, the wives urging their husbands to a descent, "rain or no rain;" and the young ones spunkily protesting that they came to see the active part of the volcano, and as they were neither sugar nor salt, the rain should not interfere with them. In the meantime the weather assumed a more favorable aspect, and the most eager started off, leaving the prudent ones to await confirming signs. went with the first party, of course. a gradual descent for about a quarter of a mile, we came to a slope, almost perpendicular, of about one hundred feet down. A sort of path had been worn by clinging to rocks, bushes, &c., and slipping where we had no convenient hold for the hands. Thus we made out to get down. The difficulty of the descent obliged some of the ladies to relinquish the pleasure of witnessing the raging fire, and they returned to the house.

Off I After

Our way now became more easy, as the slope was less steep; but at best it was very trying for a female. One half mile further brought us to the lower bed of the new lava, which was more easy to walk upon, being like ice covered with ashes. From this point our way became crossed by innumerable cracks or openings, over which we were forced to step or jump, according to their size, and many of them of an undiscoverable depth, hot steam issuing from them all, causing a sensation as if we were passing an oven's mouth.

We stopped a moment at the base of a hugh pile of lava rocks, in the center of which was a deep pit, smelling strongly of brimstone, and which was so hot that we could not look into it: one of our party lighted a cigar by holding it over its mouth on the end of a stick. Next we crossed a high ridge of rocks, of all sizes and shapes, which brought us to where the lava was

piled, sheet upon sheet, and as we walked our feet would often break in as through snow crust, letting us down, many times, knee deep, the heat being too great to be endured but for a moment. We now began slowly to ascend the sides of the main pit, in which the lava was boiling. It is thought its circumference is about half a mile. Its sides seem perpendicular, although they slightly incline inward to the depth of about one hundred and fifty feet.

Notwithstanding the difficulty of the way, our party advanced with some measure of glee; when, upon coming suddenly to the edge of the pit and glancing down, one general scream of surprise and horror broke from the company. Some for the moment ran from the awful sight. Seeing others gazing silently down its terrific abyss, they mustered courage, and again approached more cautiously to the sight. Truly it was enough to strike man dumb with astonishment, and excite in him reverence for that Great Jehovah who is the creator of all things. "He toucheth the mountains and they smoke," is the language of inspiration; and O what strange infatuation for puny man to strive against such power, and defy the mighty maker of such a scene! Here the boasted skill and wisdom of man is obliged to yield. He can but look with wonder, and must confess that GOD IS, and there is none like unto him!

The eye looks down, and beholds, as it were, a bed of molten iron, continually heaving, surging, and spouting the fiery liquid high in air. Now it is covered all over with a dark coat of lava, and anon the confined air bursts the crust into pieces, and tumbling, whistling, pitching, it sinks into the liquid mass, and is melted by the intense heat. It is a fathomless "lake of fire"-a fit emblem of “Death and Hell.”

The sight beggars all description, and my vain, feeble attempt seems but a mockery. To be at all realized it must be seen!

Leaving this huge wonder of nature's frightful convulsion, we returned to the foot of the mound, and there partook of a lunch of oysters, crackers, cheese, &c., which the natives had brought.

The weather, which until now had remained misty, gave signs of speedy and abundant rain, and our party concluded to return by the direct route in which they

had come.

of one.

Mr. S. and myself determined to take a more circuitous way on the bed of the new lava, and thus give scope for further explorations at every step, and we found much to interest us. I occasionally picked up a specimen of glassy lava, for which fortunately I had provided myself with a small bag. We had hardly gone half way from the crater before it began to rain heavily. Seeing a sort of cave near by, we entered it, and upon examination found we were under an immense shell of lava which had been raised probably to the hight of forty feet. It was one hundred feet long and twenty-five feet wide. Having for the most part no support, the roof in the center had fallen in, so that there are now two caves instead Innumerable stalactites, having the appearance of icicles, but of a dark slate color, were found, both suspended from the roof and standing around the cavern. The cave was filled with a warm and very dense vapor, which, rising to the top, was dripping continually from every part of it, and thus, no doubt, the stalactites were formed. We gathered a number of specimens, and remained here with overcoats off until we found our garments completely wet through by the vapor and perspiration. Preferring the rain, we proceeded on our way. I doubt not that this cave would be very useful for its medicinal properties were it in a location accessible to invalids. The rain was now pouring, and the fog became so dense that it was impossible for us to see our way from the crater. All we could discern was an immense precipice, as perpendicular as a plumb-line, towering hundreds of feet over our heads until lost in the misty clouds that had settled upon us.

volcano, and supposed it to be the other crater, which had only been in action a short time, and whose light we had perceived the previous evening. The hissing, however, proved to be from the nose of a tea-kettle, kept boiling over a lamp during the night in case it might be wanted. The joke went merrily round the next day at the expense of our informant.

As the sun rose in splendor, we took our breakfast with elated spirits and prepared to start. Mr. T. and suite, with Captain F., had gone before us, intending to complete the journey before night.

We took it leisurely and enjoyed the scene, which was both picturesque and romantic, the day proving very fine. On Captain F.'s leaving, my attentions were due, and were not unwillingly rendered, to a very agreeable and intelligent lady. We arrived at the half-way house about two P. M., somewhat weary, but in the best of spirits. The advance party had engaged refreshments for us, and native hospitality had decorated the house with evergreens, and in other ways provided for our comfort. Captain P. and lady, after taking a cup of hot tea, continued their journey; while the rest of us, seeking our ease, had domiciled ourselves until the morrow. pig was purchased, and given to the natives to prepare in regular "Lou ou" style. At seven o'clock we took supper, and a feast it was. Fruits were in abundance. The native process of "lomi, lomi," refreshed the most weary of our party. The evening was spent in singing, conversation, &c. We retired early, and sleep soon silenced the most talkative. By six o'clock in the morning we had started for town.

A

zon, shedding light and gladness over all below. About nine o'clock we arrived at the cocoanut grove, where a troop of natives had assembled to see our cavalcade as it passed. We were anxious to terminate our journey, and hurried on.

During the night one of our party affirmed that he distinctly heard the low hissing of a

Shortly after, we ascended an eminence where the scenery presented to our eyes was truly grand. Before our sight was spread the broad and beautiful Bay of Hilo, upon whose quiet bosom a number of vessels were riding, which could be plainly discerned through the intervening shrubbery. On the right hand was

spread the expansive waters of the mighty Pacific, now reposing in treacherous tranquillity, stealthily waiting the summons of nature to lash themselves into foaming fury! On our left, in the distance, rose the towering" Mouna Roa," whose snowy peak strangely contrasted with the sultry air of the valley.

Looking up, we once more beheld dark heavy clouds rolling "to and fro," as if preparing for a terrible conflict. Wisely heeding nature's signs, we urged our already jaded steeds to a more prompt and speedy performance of their duty. They, too, began to think of home, and new vigor seemed imparted to us all. As we struck upon the highway of the town, large drops began to fall. On entering, we rode directly up to the hospitable mansion of the Rev. T. Coan, seamen's chaplain at Hilo, and had barely dismounted when the rain seemed to "let go," and down it poured in torrents.

verse he heard a sermon which he never can forget; this chapter is associated with some affecting event in his domestic history; and here is a paragraph which gave rise to a dialogue or meditation, ever memorable in his religious career.

Yet, were a hundred such illuminated Bibles compared, it would be found that in no two of them is the same set of passages marked and made prominent. Some may coincide, and a few emphatic sentences may be common to all; but, according to individual peculiarities or providential circumstances, it will turn out that portions fraught with glory to one eye are obscure or ordinary to every other.

Suppose that

To take two instances. each man were to mark in vermilion the verse that first convinced him of sin, or first made him anxious for the saving of his soul. In the Bible of the Apostle Paul, the tenth commandment would be inscribed in red letters; for, as he tells us, "I had not known sin, except the commandment had said, Thou shalt not covet." In the Bible of Alexander Henderson it would be, "He that entereth not by the door into the sheepfold, but climbeth up some other way, the same is a thief and a robber;" for that was the shaft which pierced the conscience of the unconverted minister. In the Bible of the Ironside soldier, the rubric would be found at Eccles. xi, 9; for it was there that the bullet

BEFORE

LIVING EPISTLE.

EFORE the days of printing, the copyists sometimes took great pains with their manuscripts, and Bibles were then elaborately embellished. Traced in silver and gold and brilliant colors, occasionally executed on tinted parchment, the mere letters were often a gorgeous picture; and such illuminated manuscripts will always awaken the astonishment and delight of the tasteful antiquarian.

We do not print our Bibles in silver and gold; nor have we verses marked out from the others by their vermilion ink, or their bolder character. And yet we have sometimes thought that every careful reader can illuminate his own copy as he proceeds. The book is all bright with passages which, at one time or another, have stirred or strengthened him :-it is all radiant with texts which have accused, or rebuked, or consoled him. On this

Bible, would have pierced his bosom; and when the battle was over, he read, "Rejoice, O young man, in thy youth, and let thy heart cheer thee in the days of thy youth, and walk in the ways of thine heart, and in the sight of thine eyes: but know thou, that for all these things God will bring thee into judgment."

Or, suppose that each were to mark in golden letters the text which has been to him the gate of heaven; the text through whose open lattice a reconciled God has looked forth on him, or through whose telescope he first has glimpsed the cross. The Ethiopian chamberlain would mark the fifty-third of Isaiah; for it was when reading about the Lamb led to the slaughter that his eye was directed to the Lamb of God, who taketh away the sin of the world, and he went on his way rejoicing. The English martyr, Bilney, would indicate the faithful saying, "Christ Jesus came into the world to save sinners, of