The Great Cascade, formed by the waters of the Anio rushing from an immense height, is magnificently grand, whether viewed from the temple above or from what is called the Grotto of Neptune below. After a second fall, under a high bridge, it loses itself among rocks, and forms a scene so romantic and so beautiful that no description can do it justice.

After descending to the Grotto of Neptune, which stands at the foot of these rocks, we ascended again to the Temple of Vesta; and, having enjoyed for some minutes this delightful prospect, crossed the bridge, and proceeded, in a walk of two or three hours, to view the remains of Roman villas, and Le Cascatelle, or Little Cascades, which, though on the same side of the river as Tivoli, are better seen from the opposite bank. These beautiful waterfalls are formed by a branch of the Anio, which, after turning several mills in the town, falls down some high banks, in different places and in the most picturesque manner imaginable. You will not expect me to say more on the subject, as the best painters have but faintly conveyed an idea of the lovely scenery of this spot.

The man who acted as our ciceroni pointed out to us, beside other objects, a fountain, which, according to his account, is the

4

very one mentioned by Horace*; the site of the poet's villa, on which stands at present a little convent; the position of Mæçenas's country-seat, which stood on the same side of the river with the Cascatelle and the town;, and that of Quintilius Varro, which was placed on the opposite bank. The terrace of the latter still remains it commands a delightful view of the little falls, Tivoli, and the surrounding country. We had no very great confidence in the classical knowledge of our guide; but every thing around certified for the truth of his assertions. He probably made many mistakes in the names given to particular spots; but it was clear that the ground over which we were treading had been parceled out among the most illustrious of the Romans, who came hither to enjoy in rustic ease that happiness which was denied them in their splendid palaces at Rome, though surrounded with luxuries and adorned with all the insignia of official

power.

The friend who accompanied me in this expedition was a man of excellent taste, and well acquainted with the best writers of antiquity. He shared and contributed not a little.

* In his ode "Ad Fontem Blandusiæ:"

"O fons Blandusiæ, splendidior vitro, &c."

to my pleasure on this occasion: and we re turned to our inn pleased with the scenes which we had visited, and still more delighted with the recollections they excited. We agreed that Tivoli and its environs were fully deserving the partiality entertained for them by the poets, statesmen, and orators of ancient Rome.

In the evening we strolled into the garden, and saw by moonlight the Temple of Vesta and the Great Cascade. Viewed in this manner, these charming objects formed another landscape, different from what they had presented in the morning; and we knew not to which to give the preference.

In returning to Rome the next day, we stopped a little beyond the gates of Tivoli, to see an ancient round edifice which stands in a vineyard. It is simple and unadorned. Antiquaries have not settled whether it was a temple or a sepulchre. It is called the Temple of Tussis (or the god of coughing); but no such deity is known in the catalogue of heathen mythology.

With this expedition I shall conclude my account of particular objects, and shall in my next letter speak of Rome as seen in a general point of view.

I am, &c.

LETTER XXX.

in

Fast treasures still remaining at Rome, as the seat of the fine arts -Basilicks, churches, palaces, antiquities-Strangers spend their time at Rome in seeing the above-Roman noblesse spend theirs in parading the streets—Their great ignorance and indifference about the finest works of art-Anecdote proving the same- -Cicesbeos Roman ladies Their voice, behaviour, und appearance-A gentleman whipped in public (by way of joke) by a Roman belle-Society here-Madame Torlonia's parties-Duchess of Lanti's concerts—Balls given during the carnival-Roman morals-Practice of assassination stopped by the French while they were masters of this city-Gaming the principal cause of this crime-The lowest orders game the public streets-Roman beggars; their importunity and numbers-Misery of the poor-No hackney coaches at Rome— No lights in the streets at night-The hotels-Frequent funerals and other melancholy sights at Rome-The religious fraternities—Anecdotes of the late pope, Pius the Sixth-His character differently represented by different parties—He was the patron of the arts-They have since languished-Canova, the celebrated statuary-Few persons at Rome now encourage talent-Artists kept alive by the munificence of Mr., an English gentleman-Anecdotes of the same-Conduct of the French generals while in possession of Rome - Effect of the late revolution-The present pope-Population of Rome→ Principal families-The pleasures which Rome affords.

My dear sir,

Rome, April 14, 1803.

THE treasures which Rome, as the

seat of the fine arts, still possesses, notwithstand

ing the great and heavy losses it experienced during the late political convulsions, are immense. Among the innumerable churches found in every part of this city, there is scarcely one in which something may not be seen deserving and amply repaying the attention of the curious; while many of them boast such a variety of precious marbles, elegant columns, and beautiful pictures, that the eye becomes tired with a superfluity of interesting sights. If this remark be true about the churches, it applies still more forcibly to the palaces; which, having suffered less from the effects of the revolution, offer, in sculpture, architecture, and painting, the most magnificent specimens of human skill.

After contemplating the wonders of the Vatican, St. Peter's, the basilicks of S. Maria Maggiore, of John of Lateran, of St. Paul, St. Laurence, St. Sebastian, and St. John of Jerusalem; the splendid churches of S. Maria delli Angeli, of St. Ignatius of Loyola, of Jesus, and of St. John and St. Paul; the palaces of Doria, Barberini, Chigi, Farnese, Colonna, and Corsini; the villas Albani, Medici, Pamphili, and Ludovici; the stranger may think himself well repaid for the trouble of his journey: but if he confine his attention to these objects, he will leave Rome with a partial and very circumscribed idea of its general magnificence. He