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The audience was numerous; and the piece represented was acted for the first time. The play was well received by the company, who were lavish of their plaudits to an elderly man, who, I am told, is the first actor at Berlin. As 1 do not understand the German language I can only say, that if either the author or the performers deserved half the applauses which they received, both the arts of writing and acting must be brought to great perfection in this capital,

I have had no opportunity of investigating the state of literature, but I am told that the number of books published annually in this town is immense. The merit of these books is quite another question. How many of these voluminous works will make their way beyond the sands which surround their native city, is a calculation into which I feel no inclination to enter,

But my letter has already exceeded its proper bounds: I shall therefore conclude, without adding to my fault by long and useless apologies.

Adieu!-I persevere in my intention of leaving Berlin to-morrow on my road to England, though we have just been thrown into considerable alarm by the report of a courier arrived at Mr. Jackson's with dispatches, who pretends that the French are actually in

posses

sion of Lubec. This rumor must either be confirmed or contradicted long before I can reach the territories of that town. I shall therefore set out; and if I find there is no other way of avoiding the "lion's den," I will change my route, embark at Stralsund, traverse Sweden, and return home by Gottenburg: but I still hope that I shall make my way to Tonningen.

I am, &c.

LETTER XLI.

Departure from Berlin-Grabo-Mecklenburg-Schwerin-Coun try-seat, capital, and history of the duke of that nameMecklenburg-Strelitz, belonging to our queen's brotherAlarm about the French Lubec-Town and government of the same-Appearance of the inhabitants-Russian fleet-English merchantmen-Territory of Holstein-Account of the same-Rensburg-Danish posting - FrederiekstadtConduct of its inhabitants — Laughable scene there—Arrival at Tonningen-English packet-boats-Bye boats -Account of Tonningen-Inhabitants of Holstein-Their independence, and hatred against the English-Bad accommodations and extravagant prices of this place-The river Eyder---Bad navigation, and difficulty of reaching this port ---Thoughts of removing the packets to Husum --- Mr. Howard, the British agent for packets---Anxiety to reach England---Arrival of English families.

My dear sir,

Tonningen, on the coast of Holstein,
July 19, 1803.

My last letter, written on the eve of our departure from Berlin, informed you how much we had been alarmed by the report of the French being actually in possession of Lubec.-Commencing our journey under this apprehension, I need scarcely tell you how happy we were made by discovering the falsehood of the story. We stopped the diligence coming from Hamburg, which we met about

five miles from Berlin, and, in answer to our inquiries on this subject, learned, both from the driver and the passengers, that there was not the least truth in this rumor; and at every posthouse where we changed horses we uniformly received the same assurances. I deter

mined, however, to proceed with the utmost celerity, as the propagation of the report proved the possibility of such a measure being in contemplation. We therefore traveled with as much haste as the state of the roads and the phlegm of the postillions would permit. You will smile when I add, that, with all this exertion, we seldom traversed above two English miles in the course of an hour, though we were always drawn by four, and frequently by six horses.

After moving over bad and heavy roads, from sun-rise till seven in the evening, the first day of our departure from Berlin, we found a tolerably decent inn, where we accordingly thought it prudent to pass the night. After a few hours' rest, we set out again, at four o'clock in the morning, and determined not to stop till we had passed the territories of Lubec. Having traveled twenty-two hours without leaving the carriage, we came into the little town of Grabo two hours after midnight, and here entered the dominions of the duke of Mecklenburg-Schwe rin. We called up the postmaster, and or

dered horses immediately; but this order was not executed with a degree of zeal by any means suited to our impatience: the clock had struck four ere we were allowed to proceed: and our patience was soon put to a still greater trial, by the sulkiness of the postillion and the extreme heaviness of the deep sands through which we were dragged. I am sure that a snail might have kept pace with us: and you will scarcely believe me when I say, that we did not reach the town of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (distant from Grabo about fifteen English miles) till eleven o'clock, having been nine hours performing this one stage!

The territory of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, of which this old town, prettily situated on the banks of a small lake, forms the capital, was originally a bishop's see; and having been secularised, and converted into a principality, by the treaty of Osnaburg, in the year 1062, was granted to Adolphus-Frederic, the first duke, who received the same in exchange for Weismar. The sovereign has a country-seat, which we passed in coming hither, consisting of a good house and extensive gardens. The village adjoining is clean, and neatly built; but the country around is barren, sandy, and disagreeable,

The old palace in which the duke resides during the winter months, has a respectable ap

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