is likewise a museum, or collection of minerals, established by the present king, which I took care to visit. In a handsome room of considerable dimensions, surrounded with a gallery, I found a very choice assortment of Sicilian and Neapolitan fossils, extremely well arranged, and kept in glass-cases. The whole was shown me by a professor, who had not only studied mineralogy in these kingdoms with all the advantages which the vicinities of Mount Vesuvius and Mount Etna afford, but has likewise examined the mines of Germany, Sweden, England, and Scotland. He spoke English very fluently, and seemed well acquainted with the curiosities of this kind which our island possesses. He is certainly a clever, an intelligent, and a learned man. In the course of the conversation he gave it as his opinion that Mount Vesuvius* was now an extinguished volcano; and though I do not give implicit belief to this prophecy, which seems at most but a vague conjecture, yet I think it right to mention it, as coming from an individual whose studies have been devoted to such subjects.

Having already particularised whatever I have thought worthy of notice in this place, I

* It appears, from some late accounts, that this prophecy has already been falsified.

shall conclude this long letter with a few

ral observations.

gene

Naples is certainly one of the most delightful spots in the known world. Its natural advantages, united to the gaiety of character which distinguishes the inhabitants, have caused it in all ages to be considered as the seat of pleasure. Indeed every thing here tends to unbend the mind, and prompt to ease and luxury. A mild and lively climate, under a sun which even in the middle of winter shines in all its splendor. A sea view, presenting the most agreeable features of that element, rarely interrupted by its less grateful characters: storms are seldom known; and the long-extended shore is washed by the Mediterranean almost as tranquil as the river Thames. Those delicacies, which, in the northern parts of Europe, can only be produced by art and at a vast expense, here grow in the open field in the most unfavorable periods of the year: the olive, the orange, and the lemon tree, decorate the gardens of the Neapolitans in the months of December and January; and green peas afford a common and not expensive dish at a Christmas dinner.

In addition to these advantages, the classical traveler finds his gratifications not a little increased by recollecting that they were those of the ancients, enjoyed and described by the

most distinguished of their poets. The Syren of Homer, the Otiosa Neapolis of Ovid, and the Parthenope of Virgil, are all supposed to paint the same place: and at the distance of two thousand years we acknowledge that its character is still the same.

The apparent misery, dirt, and idleness of the Lazaroni, will at first take from the pleasure of the philanthropist; but after observing the character of these people, he will perceive that they are so contented with the little they obtain, and so lively while covered with rags, sleeping on a stone, eating cabbages or macaroni, and drinking water, that he will soon cease to repine at the fate of those who, however deficient they may be in what are called in other countries the comforts of life, show by their countenance and manner that care and sorrow are unknown to them: and indeed it may be problematical, whether the pitied Lazaroni of Naples are not in fact happier than the wealthiest and freest inhabitants of our northern regions.

Besides partaking of the usual pleasures of Naples, I have been fortunate enough to arrive at the season of the carnival, the gaiest period of the year; and to find among my countrymen, and among the Russians and other foreigners, a circle of acquaintance, which, considering the birth, fortune, knowledge, manners,

and convivial qualities of those who compose it, is incomparably good. In the society of these amiable persons of both sexes, we have had a constant source of amusement. Besides friendly dinners almost every day, we have been invited to balls, concerts, and card parties without number: and I scarcely remember an hour passed at Naples which has not brought with it something agreeable.

The great concourse of English families has rendered all the conveniences of life extremely dear; and since I have been here, Naples has been more expensive than either London or Paris. Lodgings are let at an immense rent: Mr. R. pays twelve guineas a week for a single floor at the Albergo della Granda Britannia; lord. B. gives twenty for a similar apartment at the same house; and sir H. B. N., at an adjoining one, ninety louis for two months. I have one of the smallest sets of rooms at Les Crocelles, and the rent of it is a louis a day. Every thing is proportionably dear: and though it is impossible to be happier than we have been, we have not enjoyed our pleasure, to use a French phrase, à peu de frais.

I shall leave Naples with infinite regret; and the recollection of this charming spot will always afford me pleasure. It is in the number of the very few places which have exceeded the expectations I had previously formed: and I

eonfidently believe, that, among the many per sons who annually flock hither from every part of the world, no one ever went away dissatisfied.

I have only now to request your pardon for the length of this letter; and remain, &c.

P.S.-I once intended to have visited Poestum; but a fever, which confined me for some days, prevented the execution of this plan. The English who have undertaken the journey speak in raptures of the celebrated Grecian temple, one of the finest relics of antiquity, which is still standing at that place.

Note.I have said nothing of the ceremony of liquefying the blood of San Januarius, as that supposed miracle was not performed during my stay at Naples; besides which, the particulars of the ceremony have been repeatedly detailed by former writers.