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CONTENTS.
LETTER XXII.
The court of his Sicilian majesty. Presentation of the author
and other Englishmen at Le Grand Couvert. Account of
the royal family. English ladies presented to the queen.
The queen's address to these ladies, and remarks on English
wives and English husbands. Balls given by her majesty,
at general Acton's, to the English at Naples. General Ac
ton and his young wife. Hereditary prince and princess.
A ball given by the queen, at the palace of La Favorita, at
Portici. Neapolitan society, manners, and behaviour.
Spanish ambassador: his palace, ball, manner of living,
and masquerade charácter
LETTER XXIII.
Page 1
Curiosities in and near Naples. Studio and Hercules Far-
nese. Capo di Monte. Royal palace of La Franca Villa.
Carthusian convent, and view from that situation. Fortress
of San Elmo. Portici, and its museum. Manuscripts. An
English clergyman sent by the prince of Wales to decipher
the same at the expense of his royal highness.
paintings found at Herculaneum and Pompeii. Hercula-
neum: its history, discovery, and present appearance.
Pompeii seen in open day: its contents. Excursion to the
summit of Mount Vesuvius
Ancient
16
LETTER XXIV.
Excursion to the mountain and convent of the Camaldules.
Road to Pozzuoli. Grotto of Pausilipe. Virgil's tomb.
Solfatare. Ruins of Puteoli. Temple of Diana. Mole or
pier of Puteoli, commonly called the Bridge of Caligula.
Baiæ. Lucrine Lake. Lake of Avernus. Grotto of thé
Sibyl. Piscina Mirabilis. Misenum. View thence of the
islands of Ischia and Procida. Elysian Fields and Mare
Mortuum. Lake of Acheron, now called the Lago di Fu-
Cumes, or Cumæ. Temple of Mercury, or of Her-
cules. Temple of Diana. Castle and fort of Baiæ. Ra
gusan sailors dancing there. Lake of Agnano. Grotto del
Cane
saro.
43.
LETTER XXV.
Ceremony of a nun taking the veil. Private masquerades,
and private plays, among the English and Russians. Com-
mercial society. Public amusements. S. Carlos. Teatro
Nuovo. Teatro di Florentino. Government of Naples.
Courts of law and state of literature. Museum of minerals,
and its professor. General remarks on Naples. Living
there rendered very expensive, in consequence of the great
concourse of English. Regret at leaving Naples
LETTER XXVI.
61
Vast treasures yet remaining at Rome. Fatigue of seeing
sights. Design of writing a detailed
account of Rome
Journey from Naples
postponed till the author's return.
to Rome. Tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii near Albano.
Frequency of assassination at Rome. Tragical event of
that kind seen from the writer's windows in the middle of
the day. Children left to starve by an unnatural father
83
.
LETTER XXVII.
Ceremony of Palm Sunday. Distribution of palms. Wed-
nesday in Easter week. Vespers chanted in the Capella
Sextina. Holy Thursday. High mass performed in the
Capella Sextina. The feet of twelve poor men washed by
the pope in the Capella Paulina. His holiness waits on
the same at dinner, in the ducal chamber of the Vatican.
Good Friday. Interior of St. Peter's lighted by a cross co-
vered with lamps. Easter Sunday. High mass performed
by the pope. He gives his benediction afterwards from
the window of St. Peter's
LETTER XXVIII.
91
Presentation to the pope. Mr. Fagan, an English painter,
performs the functions of minister. His holiness receives
the author and his wife in the garden of the palace of
Monte Cavallo. Dress, appearance, and conversation of
Pius VII. Anecdote related by him of Frederic the Se-
cond of Prussia. Expresses his gratitude to England.
Sketch of his life. Presentation to the cardinal of York,
the last descendant of the house of Stuart. His appear-
ance, conversation, company, medal, &c. Very hospitable
to the English. Declaration of gratitude to our sovereign.
The furniture of his episcopal palace at Frascati stolen
during the revolution, and replaced by his attendants
LETTER XXIX.
100
Excursion to Tivoli. Solfatara. Ponte Lucano.
Tomb of
Plautius. Villa of Hadrian. Town of Tivoli.
the ancient Romans. Views in the vicinity.
Vesta and temple of the Tiburtine Sibyl. River Anio, and
Villas of
Temple of
the Great Cascade. Grotto of Neptune. Le Cascatelle, or
Little Cascades.
Horace's fountain.
Mæcenas's villa.
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Quintilius Varro's villa. Temple of Tussis
Lanti's concerts.
LETTER XXX.
Vast treasures still remaining at Rome, as the seat of the fine
arts. Basilicks, churches, palaces, antiquities. Strangers
spend their time at Rome in seeing the above. Roman
noblesse spend theirs in parading the streets. Their great
ignorance and indifference about the finest works of art.
Anecdote proving the same. Cicesbeos. Roman ladies.
Their voice, behaviour, and appearance. A gentleman
whipped in public (by way of joke) by a Roman belle.
Society here. Madame Torlonia's parties. Duchess of
Balls given during the carnival. Ro-
man morals. Practice of assassination stopped by the
French while they were masters of this city. Gaming the
principal cause of this crime. The lowest orders game in
the public streets. Roman beggars: their importunity
and numbers. Misery of the poor. No hackney coaches
at Rome. No lights in the streets at night. Hotels. Fre-
quent funerals and other melancholy sights at Rome. The
religious fraternities. Anecdotes of the late pope, Pius the
Sixth. His character differently represented by different
parties. He was the patron of the arts. They have since
languished. Canova, the celebrated statuary. Few per-
sons at Rome now encourage talent. Artists kept alive by
the munificence of Mr., an English gentleman. Anec-
dotes of the same. Conduct of the French generals while
in possession of Rome. Effect of the late revolution. The
present pope. Population of Rome. Principal families.
The pleasures which Rome affords
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