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and swam about to catch fish. His feet well webbed : be dipped his head, and turned his long bill sideways. He caught two or three fish, but did not eat them.
Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant to Versailles. portico; the pavement, and, I think, the pillars, of marble.-There are many rooms, which I do not distinctly remember.- A table of porphyry, about five feet long, and between two and three broad, given to Louis XIV. by the Venetian State.--In the council-room almost all that was not door or window, was, I think, looking-glass.-Little Trianon is a small palace like a gentleman's house. -The upper floor paved with brick.Little Vienna.—The court is ill paved.-The rooms at the top are small, fit to soothe the imagination with privacy. In the front of Versailies are small basons of water on the terrace, and other basons, I think, below them. There are little courts.The great gallery is wainscotted with mirrors, not very large, but joined by frames. I suppose the large plates were not yet made.-The play-honse was very large.-The chapel I do not remember if we saw _We saw one chapel, but I am not certain when ther there or at Trianon.-The foreign office paved with bricks.The dinner half a Louis each, and, I think, a Louis over.-Money given at Menagerie, three livres ; at palace, six livres.
Oct. 23. Monday. Last night I wrote to Levet.-We went to see the looking-glasses wronght. They come from Normandy in cast platts, perhaps the third of an inch thick. Ai Paris they are ground upon a marble table, by rubbing one plate upon another with grit between them. The various sunds, of which there are said to be five, I could not learn. The handle, by which the upper glass is moved, has the form of a wheel, which may be moved in all directions. The plates are sent up with their surfaces ground, but not polished, and so continue till they are bespoken, lest time should spoil the surface, as we were told. Those that are to be polished, are laid on a table covered with several thick cloths, hard strained, that the resistance may be equul: they are then rubbed with a hand rubber, held down hard by a contrivance which I did not well understand. The powder which is used last seemed to ne to be iron dissolved in aqua fortis ; they called it, as Barelii said, marc de l'eau forte, which he thought was dregs. They mentioned vitriol aud sultpetre. The cannon ball swam in the quicksilver. To silver them, a leaf of beaten iin is laid, and rubbed with quicksilver, to which it unites. Then more quicksilver is poured upon it, which, by its mutual (attraction] rises very high. Then a paper is laid at the nearest end of the plate, over which the glass is slided till it lies upon the plate, having driven much of the quicksilver before it. It is then, I think, pressed upou cloth, and then set sloping to drop the superfluous mercury : the slope is daily heightened towards a perpendicular. To the way I saw the Grêve, the mayor's house, and the Bastile.
We then went to Sans-terre, a brewer. He brews with about as much malt as Mr. Thrale, and sells his beer at the same price, though he pays 1o duty for malt, and little more than half as much for beer. Beer is
sold retail at 60. a bottle. He brews 4,000 harrels a year, There are seventeen brewers in Paris, of whom none is supposed to brew more than he ;-reckoning them at 3,000 each, they make 51,000 a year.-They make their malt, for malting is here vo trade.
The moat of the Bastile is dry,
Oct. 24. Tuesday. We visited the King's library-I saw the SpecuLum humance Salvationis, rudely printed, with ink, sometimes pale, sometimes black; part supposed to be with wooden types, and part with
pages cutin boards. The Bible, supposed to be older than that of Mentz, in 62; it has no date; it is supposed to have been printed with wooden types.-I am in doubt; the print is large and fair, in two folios.-Another book was shewu me, supposed to have been printed with wooden types ;-I think Durandi Sanctuarium in 58. This is inferred froin the difference of form sometimes seen in the same letter, which might be struck with different puncheons. The regular similitude of most letters proves better that they are metal.--I saw nothing but the Speculum which Į had not seen, I think, before.
Thence to the Sorbonne.-The library very large, not in lattices like the King's. Marbone and Durandi, q. collection 14 vol. Scriptores de rebus Gallicis, many folios --Histoire Genealogique of France, 9 vol, -Gallia Christiana, the first edition, 4to. the last, f. 12 vol.-the Prior and Librarian dined (with us]:-I waited on them home. Their garden pretty, with covered walks, but small; yet may
students.The Doctors of the Sorbonne are all equal ;--choose those who succeed . to vacancies.-Profit little.
Oct, 25. Wednesday. I went with the Prior to St. Cloud, to see Dr. Hooke-We walked round the palace, and had some talk-I dined with our whole company at the Monastery-In the library, Beroald, Lymon,-Titus, from Boccace-Oratio Proverbialis to the Virgin, from Petrarch; FalĶland to Sandys ;-Drydeu’s Preface to the third vol, of Miscellanies.
Oct. 26. Thursday. We saw the China at Sêve, cut, glazed, painted. Bellvue, a pleasing house, not great: fine prospect-Meudon, an old palace- Alexander, in Porphyry: hollow between eyes and nose, thin cheeks-Plato and Aristotle-Noble terrace overlooks the towo-St. Cloud-Gallery not very high, por grand, but pleasing-In the rooms, Michael Angelo, drawn by himself, Sir Thomas More, Des Cartes, Bochart, Naudæus, Mazarine-Gilded wainscot, so common that it is not minded-Gough and Keene-Hooke came to us aţ the ino-A message from Drumgold,
Oct. 27. Friday. I staid at home Gough and Keene, and Mrs. S—'s friend dined with us--This day we began to have a fireThe weather is grown very cold, and I fear, has a bad effect upon my breath, which has grown much more free and easy in this country.
Sat. Oct. 28. I visited the Grand Chartreux built by St. Louis_It is built for forty, but contains only twenty-four, and will not maintain
more–The friar that spoke to us had a pretty apartment-Mr. Baretti says four rooms; I remember but three-His books seemed to be French -His garden was neat; he gave me grapes-We saw the Place de Victoire, with the statues of the King, and the captive nations.
We saw the palace and gardens of Luxembourg, but the gallery was shut-We climbed to the top stairs-Í dined with Colbrooke, who had much company:-Foote, Sir George Rodney, Motteur, Udson, TaalCalled on the Prior, and found himn in bed.
Hotel-a guinea a day-Coach, three guineas a week-Valet de place, three l. a day-Avantcoureur, a guinea a week_Ordinary dinner, six l, a head-Our ordinary seems to be about five guineas a day--Our extraordinary expences, as diversions, gratuities, clothes, I cannot reckon, Our travelling is ten guineas a day.
White stockings, 181. Wig-Hat.
Sunday, Oct. 29. We saw the boarding-school- The Enfans trouvés -A room with about eighty-six children in cradles, as sweet as a parlour _They lose a third ; take in to perhaps more than seven (years old); put them to trades; pin to them the papers sent with them-Want ourses Saw their chapel.
Went to St. Eustatia ; saw an innumerable number of girls catechised, in many bodies, perhaps 100 to a catechist-Boys taught at one time, girls at another–The sermon; the preacher wears a cap, which he takes off at the name:-his actinn uniform, not very violent.
Oct. 30. Monday. We saw the library of St. Germain-A very noble collection-Codex Divinorum Officiorum, 1459 :-a letter, square, like that of the Offices, perhaps the same-The Coder, by Fust and Gernsheym- Meursius, 12 v. fol-Amadis, in French, 3 v. fol.-CATHOLICON sine colophone, but of 1460—Two other editions, one by Augustin. de Critate Dei, without name, date, or place, but of Fust's square
leiter as it seems. I dined with Col. Dramgold; had a pleasing afternoon.
Some of the books of St. Germain's stand in presses from the wall, like those at Oxford.
Oct. 31. Tuesday. I lived at the Benedictines; meagre day; soup meagre, herrings, eels, both with sauce; fryed fish; lentils, tasteless in themselves. In the library ; where I found Matseus's de Historia Indica : Promontorium flectere, to double the Cape. I parted very tenderly from the Prior and Friar Wilkes.
Maitres des Arts, 2 y-Bacc. Theol. 3 y-Licentiate, 2 y-Doctor Th. 2 y. in all 9 years_For the Doctorate three disputations, Major, Minor, Sorbonica-Several colleges suppressed, and transferied to that which was the Jesuit's College.
Nov, 1, Wednesday. We left Paris-St. Denis, a large towo; the church not very large, but the middle aisle is very lofty and awful-On the left are chapels built beyond the line of the wall, which destroy the
symmetry of the sides. The organ is higher above the pavement than any I have ever seen_The gates are of brass-On the middle gate is the history of our Lord–The painted windows are historical, and said to be eminently beautiful-We were at another church belonging to a convent, of which the portal is a dome; we could not enter further, and it was al. most dark.
Nov. 2. Thursday. We came this day to Chantilly, a seat belonging to the Prince of Condé-This place is emineutly beautified by all varieties of waters starting up in fountains, falling in cascades, runoing in streams, and spread in lakes. The water seems to be too near the house-All this water is brought from a source or river three leagues off, by an artificial canal, which for one league is carried onder ground_The house is magnificent-The cabinet seerns well stocked ; what I remember the jaws of a bippopotamus, and a young hippopotamus preserved, which, however, is so small, that I doubt its reality-It seems too hairy for an abortion, and too small for a mature birth_Nothing was jo spirits; all was dry-The dog; the deer; the ant-bear with long snout_The toucan, long broad beak_The stables were of very great length-The kennel had no scents_There was a mockery of a village_The Menagerie had few aniinals_Two faussans, or Brasilian weasels, spotted, very wild_There is a forest, aod, I thiok, a' park I walked till I was very weary, and next morning felt my feet battered, and with pains in the toes.
Nov.3. Friday. We came to Compeigne, a very large town, with a royal palace built round a pentagonal court, The court is raised upon Faults, and has, I suppose, au entry on one side by a gentle riseTalk of painting-The church is not very large, but very elegant and splendid I had at first great difficulty to walk, but motion grew continually easier–At night we came to Noyon, an episcopal city-The cathedral is very beautiful, the pillars alternately Gothic and CorinthianWe entered a very noble parochial church-Noyon is walled and is said to be three iniles round,
Nov. 4. Saturday. We rose very early, and came through St. Quintin to Cambray, not long after three_We went to an English nunnery, to give a letter to Father Welshi, the confessor, who came to visit us in the evening.
Nov.5. Sunday. We saw the Cathedral-It is very beautiful, with chapels on each side-The choir splendid- The balustrade in one part brass_The Neff very high and grand. The altar silver as far as it is seen-The vestments very splendid-At the Benedictines church-
Here his Journal ends abruptly. Whether he wrote any more after this time, I know not; but probably not much, as he arrived in England about the 12th of November. These short notes of his tour, though they may seem minute, tuken singly, make together a considerable mass of information, and exbibit such an ardour of enquiry and acuteness of examination, as, I believe, are found in but few travellers, especially at
an advanced age. They completely refute the idle notion which has been propagated, that he could not see; and, if he bað taken the trouble to revise and digest them, he undoubtedly could have expanded them into a very entertaining narrative.
When I met him in Loudon the following year, the account which he gave me of his French tour, was, Sir, I have seen all the visibilities of Paris, and round it; but to have formed an acquaintance with the people there, would have required more time than I could stay. I was just beginning to creep into acquaintance by means of Colonel Drumgold, a very high man, Sir, head of L'Ecole Militare, a most complete character, for he had first been a professor of rhetoric, and then became a soldier. And, Sir, I was very kindly treated by the English Benedictines, and have a cell appropriated to me in their convent."
He observed, “ The great in France live very magnificently, but the rest very miserably. There is no happy middle state as in England. The shops of Paris are mean; the meat in the markets is such as would be sent to a goal in England ; and Mr. Thrale justly observed, that the cookery of the French was forced upon them by necessity; for they could not eat their meat, unless they added some taste te it. The French are an indelicate people; they will spit upon any place. At Madame
's, a literary lady of rank, the footinao took the sugar in his fingers, and threw it into my coffee. I was going to put it aside; but hearing it was made on purpose for me, I e'en tasted Tom's fiogers. The same lady would needs make tea à l'Angloise. The spout of the tea-pot did not pour freely; she bude the footman blow into it. France is worse than Scotland in every thing but climate. Nature has done more for the French; but they have done less for themselves than the Scotch have done.
It happened that Foote was at Paris at the same time with Dr. Johnson, and his description of my friend while there, was abundantly lodi
He told me thut the French were quite astonished at his figure and manner, and at his dress, which he obstinately cootinued exactly as in London ;-his browo clothes, black stockings, and plain shirt. He mentioned, that an Irish gentleman said to Johnson, Sir, you have not seen the best French players. Jobnson. Players, Sir! I look on them as no better than creatures set upon tables and joint-stools to make faces and produce laughter, like dancing dogs. But, Sir, you will allow that some players are better than others ? Johnson. Yes, Sir, as some dogs dance better than others.
While Johnson was in France, he was generally very resolute in speake ing Latin. It was a maxim with him that a inan should not let himself down, by speaking a language which he speaks imperfeetly. Indeed, we must have often observed how inferior, how much like a child, a man appears, who speaks a broken tongue. When Sir Joshua Reynolds at one of the dinners of the Royal Academy, presented himn to a Frenchman of great distinction, he would not deigo to speak French, but talked