of all he does. He has much of what so eminently characterized Göthe.

Oh! how delightful it was, to sit gazing at his magnificent designs and hearing him talk all the while. We talked of many things; of painting, of the arts generally, of London, of Paris, of Rome.

"Rome," said he, with singular earnestness of tone and look; "All I am was gained there; Rome has left upon me an impression I cannot describe."

Another similarity with Göthe.

One of the things I regret the deepest is the not having sooner seen Cornelius. There is something in his conversation that charms and rivets you to his presence; it is as though you were listening to the words of another age, to the lessons of the old masters of yore. And all these great men has Berlin, and Berlin is accused of not being sufficiently constant in its veneration of them. It is said, that like the French, the Berliners rejoice in novelty, and devour the reputations they draw towards them, just as you wither a flower by too greedily aspiring its odours. This may be so, I would not answer for it, but still, I think I saw marks of their admiration for the heroes of art being as lasting as it is lively, and I doubt whether any of those whom I have mentioned have any cause to complain.

The Berliner is, in some respects, as I have already said, very like a Frenchman, but he is in many others far more like an American. In the first place, they are a most undeniably moral race, and their faults come, not as with the French, from a too profound worship of materialism, but from a too great sharpness of intellect. Observe that intellect is of several species, and may be elevated, or capacious, or profound, or acute; now the Berliners are eminently acute or sharp; they are, allow me an Americanism, a fast people. This is, perhaps, the principal reason why the Prussians are so disliked throughout Germany (which, they are) for their other brethren of the North and the South, are of intellect, elevated or profound, or capacious, but never sharp, and the spitziger Berliner falls amongst them like a porcupine, pricking them to right and to left. The Prussians, too, have a latent contempt for all that is not themselves, and they manifest this, even as do the French and the Americans; and by their arrogance, show themselves nine times out of ten, to be what a very clever Florentine lady once said to me, speaking of the French:

"Une grande nation excessivement désagréable."

Like the French, the patriotism of the Prussians is fiery, and to the highest degree intolerant. Frederick

the Great is their Napoleon, and at every instant they are raking him out of his grave and calling upon him to get up and lay about him with his

cane.

You should have seen them when the King of Wurtemberg made his speech in the month of March! the very waiters of the inn felt insulted, and the gamins of the street were ready to march. The gamin! ah! there alas, is a material point of resemblance with Paris; the gamin thrives in Berlin and is, I am sorry to say, co-existent with the petits journaux, which, though now pretty well known all over Germany, attain nowhere to such a point of charivarism as in Berlin.*

* The catalogue of a few of the petits journaux, published not alone in Berlin, but in the different towns of Germany generally, is an amusing one, from the strangeness of the names: "The Spanish Fly," "The Hornet,” “The Wasp," "The Bee," "The Gad Fly," "The Nest of Gad Flies," "Day Must Break," "The Torch," "The Gaslight," "The Lantern," "The Snuffers," "The Eternal Lamp," "The Bawler of Torgau," "The Berliner Jaw," "The Braggart of Berlin,' ""The Barricade News," "The Street Times,' "The Red Cap," "The Sans Culotte," "The Ship of Fools," "The Devil," "The Devil on his Travels," "The Devil let Loose," "The Church Devil," "The Revolutionary Devil," “ Kladeradatsch," "Hurrah! the Prussians are come !" "The Universal Wash," "The Political Ass," &c. The greater portion of these belong to Berlin, some to Vienna. In the small towns and in

A very clever friend of mine pretends that all our mistakes in life come from our neglecting to turn our vices to account; now, I strongly suspect that the Prussians owe a large portion of their successes to their defects, and amongst these, I should not be surprised if more than once their presumption had stood them in good stead.

the country villages, almost all take the name of the people as their basis, as: "The People's Messenger," "The People's Friend," "The People's Companion," "The People's Mirror," "The People's Voice," "The People's Pulpit," and so on, ad infinitum.

CHAPTER XVI.

PRUSSIA AND THE ROYAL FAMILY-THE REVOLUTION OF BERLIN.

THE difference between the provinces of Northern and Southern Germany is not by any means a superficial one; it is as deep-rooted as it is possible for any such difference to be, and pervades the two distinct races in everything; in their feelings, habits, and occupations. The civilization of Northern Germany, which is, in the present day, incontestably farther advanced, in an intellectual point of view, than that of the South, is of infinitely later birth.

At the period when, in Austria, Bavaria, Franconia, Swabia, and portions of Saxony, and especially upon the banks of the Rhine, there are poets, the echo of whose songs strikes our ears even now, the north-eastern countries of Germany are wrapped in the dark mists of superstition, and seek their