ÆäÀÌÁö À̹ÌÁö
PDF
ePub

east, (magnetic) nine miles distant from the highest peak on Greenlys island.

I have the honour to be, &c.,

J. C. WICKHAM, Com. RN.

Mount Fairfax, the Wizard Hills, and Champion Bay.

The only part of the west coast (to the northward of Swan River) that has been visited by the Beagle is that part immediately to the eastward of the Abrolhos, and it is remarkable from being under the high table land of Moresbys flat-topped range, which is a considerable elevation, and in clear weather is visible from a ship's masthead at the Abrolhos.

This range of hills extends N.N.W., six miles from Mount Fairfax, which although a detached hill may be considered its southern extreme. Mount Fairfax is a table-topped hill, the summit of which is an elevated part at its southern edge, and is 590 feet high. It is in latitude 28° 45', and longitude 1° 33' west of Swan River, and four miles from the coast. To the south-east of Moresbys flat-topped range are the Wizard Hills, the highest of which, Wizard Peak is 640 feet. It is in lat. 28° 49′ 37′′ S., and long. 0° 58′ W. of Swan River. For ten miles and a half to the northward of Moresbys flat-topped range are some remarkable detached ranges of table land, from 500 to 600 feet high, at the northern extreme of which are the Menai Hills. Some of them show as peaks, but appear only to be the gable ends, as it were of table-topped ridges.

In lat. 28° 47' S. there is a narrow neck of low land projecting about a mile and three quarters from the coast line, to the northward of which there is good anchorage in Champion bay.

Point Moore which is the extreme of this low projection bears W. 13° S. (mag.) from Mount Fairfax, and W. 17° N. (mag.) from Wizard peak. The anchorage is protected from the westward by a reef that extends upwards of a mile to the northward from Point Moore: but half a mile to the northward of this reef is a detached shoal patch which breaks occasionally, between which and the reef there is a passage through which the Beagle passed, and had not less than six fathoms. But perhaps it would be advisable in standing into the bay to pass to the northward of this danger, which may be done by not bringing Mount Fairfax to bear to the southward of E. S. (mag.) until Point Moore bears south.

This bay is open to the northward, but as the winds from that quarter are not frequent, and then only in the winter season it may be considered as affording shelter from the prevailing winds on the coast. The water is shoal in the head of the bay, but a good anchorage may be taken three-quarters of a mile off shore in four fathoms sandy bottom with Point Moore bearing S. 50° W., and a remarkable bare brown sand hill in the south-east part of the bay, bearing S. 31° E. Mount Fairfax will then bear N. 87° E., and the north extreme of the reef from Point Moore N. 50° W. Wizard peak is not seen from this anchorage.

South of Point Moore is another bay formed by a continuation of the

same reef that shelters Champion bay from the westward; but it is quite exposed to the prevailing winds. From Champion bay the coast to the northward is sandy, and fronted by sand hills slightly covered with shrubs. This description of coast continues for nearly twenty miles. In lat. 28° 25' is a remarkable white sand patch 274 feet above the sea; between two and three miles south of which is a deep ravine where there is probably a stream of fresh water. Here the shore becomes steeper, and rises abruptly from the sea, forming Downs about 300 feet high. Native fires were seen in this neighbourhood, and the country had a more fertile appearance than in the vicinity of Champion bay. This part of the coast is bold to and is free from outlying dangers; the depth of water from two to four miles off shore, being between sixteen and twenty fathoms. High water at Champion bay takes place on change days at 9h. 30m. P.M. nearly, and the range is from twelve to twenty-four inches. The stream of tide is not perceptible, but there is generally a current along the coast to the N.N.W. from half a mile to a mile an hour.

Champion bay appears to be the only anchorage on the coast between Swan River and Sharks bay: it is preferable to Gages road, and may at no very distant period become of importance to Western Australia, in consequence of a considerable tract of fine country having lately been discovered immediately to the eastward of Moresbys flat-topped range. [Our next number will contain Capt. Wickham's description of Houtmans Abrolhos.]

TIMOR LAUT, THE ARROU AND KI ISLANDS.

THE scanty knowledge we have of the numerous islands forming the south-east boundary of the Banda Sea, induces us at once to lay before our readers the following extracts, from the remarks of her Majesty's ship Britomart, Commander Owen Stanley, drawn up by Mr. James Hill, the second-master of that vessel. They were visited by that vessel in March, 1839.

Oleliet is situated on the south-east part of Timor Laut, in latitude 7° 54′ 46′′ south, and longitude 131°‍26′ 33′′ east; it affords a secure anchorage during the north-west monsoon, in from ten to fourteen fathoms, about half a mile from the shore. During the south-east monsoon the swell, and a very strong set to the southward, render the anchorage very unsafe. The village of Oleliet is built on a hill, 413 feet above the level of the sea, the land side of which is nearly perpendicular, and can only be ascended by ladders, that can be removed in the event of any attack from the land, the formation of which perfectly protects the town from any attack from seaward.

The population appeared to be large, the men were all strong and active, they have a peculiar mode of dying their hair of a flaxen colour, (which they wear very long and appear to take great pride in,) a simple waist cloth is their only dress; bows, arrows, iron-headed spears of formidable dimensions, and crests were plenty among them. Cocoanuts may be procured in any quantity, but the other articles of stock

they did not seem much inclined to part with. on the north side of the bay.

Water may be procured

The people of the Tenimber Islands are not to be trusted, however friendly they may appear for the time.

Between Oleliet and Luora a coral reef extends to about a mile from the shore, on which there is a heavy surf during the south-east monsoon, within which the water is apparently shoal.

Luora, and another village, the name of which we could not ascertain, are built upon the same plan as Oleliet. From Luora, the east coast of Timor Laut is high, (about 600 to 800 feet,) and very thickly wooded; several bays were observed, which, if not blocked up by coral reefs, would afford anchorage in both monsoons;-the water is very clear, so that during the day no danger whatever need be apprehended, if a good look-out be kept from the mast-head, but at night the lead will not give sufficient warning. During the south-east monsoon a strong current was found to prevail off the coast.

Arrou Islands.-On nearing these islands the soundings become very irregular, varying from thirty to fifty fathoms in less than two miles; all the islands seen by the Britomart, were low and thickly wooded. The water is not so clear as off Timor Laut.

The native traders found at Dobbo from the northward, generally prefer making the small island of Babi; after getting hold of which, a N.N.E. course is steered for the north-west point of Wamma, distant six miles and a half, and may be known by a native village and a small Dutch fort.

Vessels bound to Dobbo from the southward, when in the parallel of 6° 8' south, and longitude 134° 4' east, with eleven or twelve fathoms of water, will find a deep opening to the eastward, and a little more to the northward will be seen the island of Babi, which is low. Having reached the north-west end of Babi, and being four or five miles to the westward of it, steer north-east or more easterly, until you see the village and fort of Waula, on the north-west point of Wamma: a good berth must be given to this point, and the south-west point of Wokam, as a shoal extends for some distance from both points, over which the tide sweeps with great strength, the flood to the southward and ebb to the northward. On approaching the north-west point of Wamma, the village of Dobbo will be seen on a low sandy point. Running in with a leading wind you may steer a mid-channel course, or keep Dobbo Point a little open on the starboard bow ;-the channel is deep, and the soundings very irregular, varying from eight to eighteen and twenty fathoms, both shoals are steep to, the edges may be distinctly seen from the mast-head. The anchorage is close off the low sandy point of Dobbo, in from fifteen to twenty fathoms very good holding ground; the traders generally have a small anchor on shore, and anchor to the eastward or westward of the point according to the monsoon.

Having to turn in or out, great attention should be paid to the tides. If turning in with the flood, and standing towards the southern shoal, you should tack the first shoal east, as the tide sets strong over that bank; in turning out with the ebb, the same attention should be paid to the northern shoal, as the ebb sets strong over that bank. The

people of Wamma profess to be pilots, but those seen by the Britomart did not appear to be the least trustworthy or of any use.

Dobbo Point, latitude 5° 45′ 45′′ south, longitude 132° 16' 10" east, variation 3° 30' east, dip 25° 39′ south. The village of Dobbo is nearly a collection of Bamboo houses, erected by the traders, on their arrival every year, about the end of the north-west monsoon, for the purpose of curing trepang, and collecting the birds of Paradise. Birds nests and pearls, form the chief articles of their trade, in return for which coloured cottons, arrack, (of an inferior quality,) and tobacco are given to the natives, at the end of their stay the greater part of the houses are removed. Very little stock of any sort can be procured here, as the as the traders only bring enough for themselves, and the natives appear to be quite careless about bringing articles to exchange. Water may be procured at the point, by sinking a cask a few feet deep, but it is not very good from the stream. Where fresh water is marked in the plan made by the Britomart, excellent water may be procured with a little more trouble. The native chiefs of the island of Wamma and Wokam, who have both gold-headed sticks with the Dutch arms on them, (as a symbol of authority) expect a trifling present of arrack and tobacco from vessels visiting the harbour; the trade is chiefly carried on in the interior by Chinese, who are brought in the trading vessels for that purpose. They proceed up the numerous channels with which the group is intersected, in canoes brought chiefly from the Ki Islands, and return when all their barter is expended, of which they give a strict account to the owner of the vessel on their return. The trees in the vicinity of Dobbo are very large and straight, and the wood is apparently applicable to all purposes.

The high mountains of Great Ki, which rise to a height of about 3000 feet, are visible before Dobbo harbour, is lost sight of.

Ki Elli though a fine village, and a great place for building the boats used in trading at the Arrous, possesses no harbour in either monsoon, as the water is deep close in to the edge of the reef, where it shoals suddenly this village is celebrated for its pottery, of which many specimens were seen,-very porous, and admirably adapted for cooling water by evaporation. The boats are well built, very prettily modelled, and very cheap; the islands appear to be well cultivated, and the inhabitants very well disposed people.

Lesser Ki. This island presents a very different appearance to Great Ki, being very low, with several shoals extending some distance from its north side, it is well cultivated;-the water being very clear, the shoals are all visible by daylight, and at night an anchorage may always be obtained in either monsoon.

Ki Doula is situated on the north-west side of the Lesser Ki Island, in a bay fronted by several smaller islands, which, if well surveyed, would form a most splendid harbour in either monsoon. The village is well built, and surrounded by a thick stone wall, in which are three gates towards the sea, and ladders which can be hauled up at pleasure. A great number of boats are made here, and at the period of the Britomart's visit, two large prows were hauled up and undergoing repairs. The inhabitants were very well disposed, but were unwilling

seen.

to sell us any stock, though plenty of fowls and pigs were The islands off the Lesser Ki were not well seen on account of the weather, which was very thick and rainy.

Tenimber Islands.-Britomart's anchorage, latitude 6° 58′ 03′′ south, and longitude 131° 58′ 26" east. Vordate is not very high but well cultivated, the anchorage off the south end is not very good, owing to the very unevenness of the bottom. The Britomart's anchor was let go in twenty fathoms, and on sounding round the brig, not more than five fathoms were found, excepting in a narrow passage between two reefs by which she had come in; it was late in the evening when she went in, and so dark that the reefs could not be seen. The water is very clear, and by daylight the reefs can be very distinctly seen. Bearings from the anchorage north end of Larat, north 141° east, south point of Vordate, north 133° east, town, north 93° east, Rocky Island, north 19° east, off shore half a mile. The natives here are not to be trusted at all, but they appear to be well off; their arms, head dresses and ivory ornaments, all indicated considerable intercourse with Europeans.

EQUATORIAL Current.

THE following is an extract from the remarks of Mr. R. W. Millar, master of H.M.S. Pearl, shewing an extraordinary current prevailing in the Atlantic, under the equator which our seamen should be acquainted with.

MAY 31st, 1840.-While looking out for the sun's meridian altitude, I was much surprised to hear the masthead man report, rocks on the starboard bow; shortly afterwards, they were seen from the poop, bearing S.W.b.W. W.:-ship's course S.W.b.W. I expected to find a westerly set about a knot and a half per hour, and calculated that we were at least seventy miles to the eastward of St. Pauls Rocks, which those in sight proved to be. At noon, the centre of the rocks bore W. N. 5' or 6', latitude acct. 1° 0′ 0′′ north, latitude observed 0° 55' 0" longitude acct. 27° 18′ 0′′ west, longitude by the mean of five chronometers 29° 14′ 15′′ west; this, (assuming the rocks to be in 29° 22′ 0′′ west, Capt. Fitzroy,) makes the chronometer between two or three miles to the eastward. In the afternoon, another set of sights was obtained about 5' from the rocks: the results the same as at noon.

2 P.M.-Bore up when within two miles of the rocks,-lowered two boats to try rate of current: ship in the mean time working to windward to preserve her position, but although there was a fine breeze, she evidently lost ground. One boat only succeeded in stemming the current and getting close up to the rocks. The rate of current was found to be four knots per hour, W.N.W. Thus it appears, that since yesterday the ship has been set north 88° west, 116 miles. I examined the fourteen-second glass and log line, the latter I found rather long, but it could not produce a greater error than half a knot per hour, at the most; this would leave 104 miles westerly set. Or, if in addition, it be suspected that the log was badly hove, or that the ship ran one knot

« ÀÌÀü°è¼Ó »