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NOTES ON TRINIDAD IN 1803.-By Capt. G. H. Columbine, R.N.

(Concluded from p. 593.)

THE CURRENTS.-The western tropical currents occasioned by the trade wind being confined by the trending of the coast of South America; and thus thrown in collected force upon Trinidad, runs there with great strength; which is still further increased along its shores by the obstruction which itself presents against the free course of the stream; and by the Oronoque, which flowing through plains subject to periodical inundations, and emptying itself near this island, greatly increases the currents in its neighbourhood; particularly about August and September, when that river is at its greatest height.

The vast river Amazons, sometimes called Orellana; the name of the first Spaniard who explored it, collecting its waters from almost half the southern continent, may perhaps, though at the remote distance of 280 leagues, contribute something to its force.

These currents vary much in their strength, at different times without any apparent cause. It is said that they ran strongest in the declining quarters of the moon; but I could not discover any satisfactory proof of this idea. Adapting itself to the coast the current runs to the northward along the east side of Trinidad; and takes a western direction between Tobago, and point Galere; round which it runs with such force, that it is scarcely possible, for a square-rigged vessel to beat against it, round that point, although it is sometimes effected.

Along the north coast it runs close to the shore a few leagues as far as Rio Grande, but there it often quits the shore, and takes a W.N.W. course, increasing its distance from the land, till it gets to the northward of the Bocas, where it seldom prevails within five or six leagues, being repelled by the current which runs out of those passages. There the two currents blend and run to leeward. Along the south coast they always run to the westward about one and half or two knots near point Galgota; but as the opposite shore of South America contracts this channel towards point Icaque, their strength is much increased there, and may be reckoned generally at three knots, but often more. From hence this body of water disperses itself over the Gulf; and along the shore is subject to the influence of the tides; but in the middle it always runs to the northward towards the Bocas, where its course being again contracted, its velocity is proportionably increased. Having passed these straits the body of this water preserves its northerly direction for five or six leagues before it falls into the common course of the stream of the ocean which is there W.N.W., but it is to be observed that as soon as it has passed the Bocas, a considerable part diverges to the E N.E., and either runs with some rapidity to windward, or so thoroughly destroys the effect of the western current, that a ship will seldom fail working up to Point Chupara with ease by keeping inshore. Often this easterly current extends a considerable distance further along the north coast, as we experienced in June 1804, when we worked up to Rio Grande from Huero in twenty-five hours, by help of the currents and occasional shiftings of the wind a few points

in rainy squalls, although the ship never went more than three knots, and was frequently becalmed. That part of the stream which goes out of the Boca Grande on the west side, turns round the north-west point of Paria, and runs down that coast with such velocity, that if a ship* bound to Trinidad falls in with the land to leeward of this point, though never so little, she must immediately stand to the northward at least as far as 13° lat. out of the greatest force of the current, and work up to Grenada, before she again attempts the Bocas. Even then, if she cannot lie S.E.b.S. at least, her reaching them will be very doubtful, and her best way will be to go through the passage between Kick-'em-Jenny and Carriacou, in order to weather Grenada before she gets into the strong lee current which prevails between that island and Trinidad, and renders it very difficult for ships to fetch Point Saline from the Bocas. In general they only reach about four or five leagues to leeward of Grenada.

These difficulties of the navigation which greatly obstruct the communication between Trinidad and the islands to the northward of it, render it an improper place for a naval arsenal. A ship disabled in action or otherwise under the lee of Martinique or the neighbouring islands, the common scene of naval operations, might indeed fetch Grenada from thence, but it would be scarcely possible for her to get to the Bocas; and if she failed, and fell into the lee current thereabouts, she would be fortunate to reach even Tortola.

A good ship will require from eight to twelve days to go from Trinidad to Barbados, which would be a great loss of time, in case she should be wanted there after refitting. To this is to be added the scarcity of water, in situations from which a fleet might be supplied. At present it would be impossible to procure sufficient for that purpose any reasonable space of time.

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Nautical Remarks.

The north coast of Trinidad is quite bold, with the following exceptions. Off Point Galere a rock to the eastward three-quarters of a mile, often visible; and I suspect that some sunken ones lie still further out, and also within it. From Point Galere to Reefs Point, one mile and a half, a reef extends about one-third of a mile from the shore; go no nearer than twelve fathoms. To the eastward of Paria Bay there are several rocks along the shore: the furthest off lie about a league to leeward of it, and one-third of a mile from the land. At night do not stand into less than fifteen fathoms. A reef extends about half

Sunday, May 27th, 1804, stood from Point Saline to the Bocas, but though the ship lay S.S.E., and went on an average three and a half knots, yet we fetched five leagues to leeward of the Bocas. Stood to the northward again, but owing to calms under the lee of Grenada, we were not able to get up to the Carriacou Passage till Thursday night, when we attempted to get through, but were driven back by the current. On Friday morning we attempted it again, but as we lay only S.S.E. we could not weather the islands close to Grenada although we had weathered the Island Aux Jantes and Islet Ronde; we ran to leeward between Grenada and London bridge (a rock midway between Grenada and Islet Ronde.) The current sets with great rapidity here to leeward, not less than three knots. On Saturday morning, having a smart breeze, we again attempted the Carriacou Passage, and though the ship lay only S.S.EE. she got through very well, weathered Grenada about three leagues. At midnight made Trinidad, and on Sunday morning entered the Bocas. ENLARGED SERIES.-NO. 9.-vol. for 1841. 4 H

a mile to the eastward of Point Chupara; and off the western part of this point a rock lies S.E.b.S. 700 feet from the land,-the sea breaks on it. The soundings on this side lie several miles off, and are almost regular. Four miles N.b. W. from Point Galere, there are twenty-two fathoms, half a mile further forty, sand and mud.

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Three miles and a half north from Point San Souci
N.b.W. from Point Rio Grande 20
N.N.W. from Point Matelot

Five miles and a half
Two miles and a half

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23 fathoms

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N.b.W. from the river Macapow 21
Three-quarters of a mile from Point Chupara
Five leagues N.b.W. from Escouvas

Five miles and a half north from Maraccas Bay
Six miles and a half north from Macaripe Point
Seven leagues N.b. E. from Boca Mono

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These depths decrease gradually towards the shore, very close to which are six, seven, and eight fathoms: the bottom being everywhere good, sand and mud, you may choose your anchorage on any part of this coast; taking the precaution not to go into the bays to leeward of Maraccas, as the high mountains prevent the wind there from blowing home, and the swell in such a case renders it difficult to manage a ship.

To anchor at Toco Bay bring Reefs Point E.b.S., and Harris house S.S.E. E., you will be in twelve fathoms muddy bottom, nearly three quarters of a mile from the land. But it is not a good place to lie at, as a great swell sets in. Harris's house is on a little hill at the north side of the bay, and is distinguishable, being the largest in that neighbourhood.

The Ulysses anchored at the following places:-Rio Grande Bay, in nine fathoms; the east end of the sandy bay S.b.E. E., and the north rocky point E.b.S. two-fifths of a mile. In niue fathoms and a half off Point Matelot, which bore E.SE., three-fifths of a mile. In fourteen fathoms off the river Paria. The island on the east side of it bearing S.b.E. E., half a mile. In Escouvas Bay in nine fathoms; Point Chupara N.E.b.E., Fort Abecrombie E.N.E., and the large house to the north of the bay S.b. W.

This is by far the best place for anchoring on the north coast. Maraccas bay is much larger, but is more subject to calms and sudden shiftings of the breeze.

Off I. Saut d'eau, in twenty-three fathoms, the body of the island, S.b.E., three-quarters of a mile, and the north point of Chaca-chacare open about 3 to the northward of Macaripe Point.

The land immediately about Point Galere is not above fifty feet hgh; it increases in height towards the west, and about Boca begins to connect itself with the chain of mountains which run along the whole north coast, from Rio Grande to the Bocas. At Rio Grande it is high water at 4h. 30m., full and change, and between this and Point Chupara the last two hours of the ebb, and sometimes the whole of it sets to the eastward along the shore.

Nautical remarks on the Bocas.

The great depth of water in the largest of the Bocas prevents auchor

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ing in any part of them, except very close to the shore. A ship may anchor any where in Boca Mono, but in deep water thirty or forty fathoms in the mid-channel. The beds of these channels are much deeper than the bottom, either within or without them, as if they had been thus worn away by the constant operation of the northern current which runs through them. In autumn, its rapidity at times is so great, that ships are frequently driven out again, after having entered one of the passages with a good breeze; during the rest of the year, its rate may commonly be estimated about two or three knots, but close to the south-west point of Chaca-chacare, I have always found it much stronger; except in autumn, the tide of flood which sets through them into the Gulf of Paria, has a considerable power towards the top of high water in checking this current, and at spring tides I have seen the water perfectly slack in Boca Mono for an hour, and very nearly so in Boca Huevo. Boca Mono (the east mouth,) is only a-third of a mile over, and should not be attempted by a ship, except in a case of necessity, as the wind seldom blows in any certain direction through it.

In May, 1803, on our return from surveying the north coast, when we came off Boca Mono, the wind appearing to blow fairly through, I determined to attempt to pass it; we effected it, but barely did it, being two hours before we got round Taitrons Point. It was noon when we entered the passage, and I think it impossible for a ship to get through early in the day, before the sea breeze is strongly made.

There are two good bays on the east shore of this passage, Taitrona and the Carenage. At the head of the latter a line-of-battle ship might lay secured to the shore, land-locked. Off the sandy shore which forms the east side of this bay, there is a bank which shoals suddenly; it will be necessary therefore to keep on the north shore if you should have occasion to work up so far. You may anchor any where at the south of this passage, and all along the south side of Mono. Deherts Bay affords excellent anchorage, and there is deep water far into it; we anchored off the mouth of it in fifteen fathoms, the south point bearing S.E.b.S., and found the bottom there so clayey and tough, that we were an hour heaving with every exertion after the cable was up and down, before the anchor would start.

Boca Huevo, Egg Passage, (or as it is now more commonly called Parasol or Umbrella Passage,) is safe to attempt to run in at, if the wind hangs to the north-east, as it will then probably blow quite through the passage; at any rate, if you cannot stem the current, you have ample room to back and fill your ship out again. Her Majesty's ship Dromedary was cast away in this passage, but as it was in a dark night, and they were strangers, it affords no material objection to it. Keep on the lee side to avoid being becalmed by the high land of Mono. We seldom used any other passage to enter the gulf; the shore is bold, but care must be taken to avoid a rock at the south-west point of Mono. Although it is not above a ship's length from the point, the eddy of the flood tide at the springs sets directly over it, and in a calm we narrowly escaped it. Boca Navios (the third,) may be safely entered, if when

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you haul round the west end of Huevo, (at a quarter or one-third of a mile distance,) you can lay up high enough to bring the south point of Huevo on your starboard bow, so as to have the current under your lee, otherwise it will be improper to attempt it, as the current does not run quite fairly out, but rather inclines down on Chaca-chacare. This remark must be attended to also in going out, and it will then be found a very good outlet, far better than the Parasol Passage, though I should prefer coming in from sea by the latter.

June the 5th, 1804, at 7 P.M., weighed from Chaguaramus, but falling calm, it was ten o'clock next morning before we got to the south point of Huevo, intending to go out through Boca Navios. Here we found such a strong current setting to the E.S.E. round that point, that being unable to stem it, we let her drive out through the Parasol Passage, which took up two hours to perform, owing to a number of eddies and opposite currents formed by the tide of flood setting in, and contending with the usual stream setting outwards. It was high water in the Bocas this day at about half-past noon, being three days before the new moon.

Boca Grande is of great extent and free from danger, except a small rock on which are three fathoms water, one-third of a mile west from the south point of Chaca-chacare. It is small and difficult to hit ;you will be clear of it when the whole of the high land of the peninsula at Chaguaramus is open to the southward of the rock, at the south point of Chaca-chacare. The altitude of the south-west mountain at that point is 7° 50', taken from its top to the sea at its foot, in a boat anchored on the rock. It flows 2h. 30m. full and change.

The bay at Chaca-chacare is very spacious, but the wind in it is so baffling that we were obliged to warp in and out, and I apprehend the same thing would happen nine times out of ten to a ship going in there. At the head of this bay is a low sandy neck, which nearly divides the island into two parts; over this, we frequently launched our small boats into Boca Grande to fish. To the southward of this low neck, there are some rocks scattered along the shore, about a cable's length distant from it.

We anchored at the head of the great bay in thirteen fathoms, the low sandy neck bearing W.b.N. four hundred yards. The ground here is as tough as at Mono Island, and the mud which the cable and hawsers brought up was extremely foul and offensive.

Chaguaramus Bay is very spacious, and affords good anchorage,― the shores are bold except off the large plantation of Mono. Dert, which is situated in the principal valley on the north side, where a shoal extends six hundred yards from the shore ;-its outer edge trends to the W.N.W. It is very steep. You may anchor in this bay anywhere, but the most convenient spot for a ship wanting to water is in twelve fathoms; when the east end of Gaspar Grande bears S.b.E., and the point to the north of Gasparillo is on with Taitrona Point. We lost an anchor in this bay, it having hooked the wreck of one of the Spanish line-of-battle ships, which were burnt here at the taking of the island, -it lays in seventeen fathoms. The western Diego Island, open 1° 10′ of Escondida Point, and the north extreme of Gaspar Grande W.b.S. A ship or two may water very well here. The tide flows here at full

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