miles W.S.W. of the larger King Cay. There are several rocky patches to the westward of these clusters of small cays, but by keeping within five miles of the coast, there is a good channel to the southward along shore, until nearly down to the Pearl Cays, where it becomes intricate and dangerous.

Twelve miles south of the King Cays is Askill Cay, the most northern of the Pearl Cay Group, which extends in small clusters down to Parattee Point; there is deep water between the cays, but there are too many rocks and shoals to allow of safe navigation amongst them, unless with good local knowledge.

There are some dangerous reefs and shoals to the eastward of the Pearl Cays reaching about twelve miles off the main land; the most eastern is the reef off Seal Cay, which is about thirteen miles E.N.E. from Parattee Point.

The Pearl Cays, and the cays to the northward are all thickly wooded, with high trees on most of them. The trees on the Pearl Cays are from fifty to one hundred and twenty feet high, and those on the small cays to the northward from thirty to seventy feet.

A dangerous reef extends off Parattee Point for two miles.

All the cays to the southward of the Men-of-war Cays, with the bank and coast line down to the parallel of 11° 40′ N., were surveyed by Lieut. Barnett in the Lark schooner.

At Parattee Point the coast falls in-suddenly to the westward for about eight miles to the mouth of the Pearl Cay Lagoon: the shore between is thickly wooded, the tops of the trees are from one hundred to one hundred and forty feet high. It is very shallow for upwards of two miles from the shore.

The Pearl Cay Lagoon is very extensive, reaching for twenty miles to the northward of the mouth: there is a bar formed about a mile outside the mouth to the south-eastward with only eight feet on it at low water, it breaks, except in very fine weather. Inside the bar there is from two to four fathoms and a half for about three miles up, beyond which it is very shallow. There is a rise and fall of about two feet at the springs. High water at 1h. 45m.

About four miles within the bar to the south-westward there is an English settlement of some extent, and another about four miles more to the westward. The settlers came originally from Jamaica, and from the English factory at Black river; they are now spread along this part of the coast at Pearl Cay, and at Blewfields Lagoons, and also at the Corn Islands, and at St. Andrews, and Old Providence.

At the Lagoons and at the Corn Islands they consider themselves as living within the Musquito territory, and do not acknowledge any connexion with the State of Columbia; whereas at St. Andrews and Old Providence they acknowledge themselves to belong to the State of Columbia, and have a commandant and a few soldiers from Carthagena. The commandant resides at St. Andrews.

Those within the Musquito territory are, in fact, living as an independant race, subject only to such laws as they have established amongst themselves.

The land projecting out to the eastward from the Pearl Cay Lagoon forms this part of the coast into a deep bay, and affords shelter during northerly winds in four or five fathoms, muddy bottom.

There is a remarkable round hill, called Cookra Hill, nine miles and a half S.W. W. from the bar of Pearl Cay Lagoon, it is five hundred and eighty-seven feet high, and stands about five miles inland. It is visible from the Great Corn Island from whence it bears nearly west. There is a similar hill fourteen miles to the southward, at the back of Blewfields Lagoon, four hundred and eighty-three feet high. These are the only hills along the coast between Cape Gracias and Blewfields, and are very useful as landmarks when bound to the Lagoons.

Blewfields Lagoon is about seven leagues south of the Pearl Cay Lagoon the coast between is nearly straight, with a sandy beach. There is a small green mound forming a projecting point to the southward, called False Blewfields, about nine miles and a half from the bar of the Pearl Cay Lagoon.

The Cayman Rock lies off this part of the coast two miles from the shore; and six miles N. E. from Blewfields Bluff. It is a barren rock about twenty-five feet high, with six and seven fathoms close to it all round, and a clear channel with from three to six fathoms between it and the shore.

At the entrance to Blewfields Lagoon, on the north side, there is a remarkable bluff headland, forming a small peninsula projecting to the south-westward, joined to the main by a low narrow neck of land. This bluff is higher than any other part of the coast, and makes like an island in almost every direction: it is about one hundred and twenty feet high, and is bold to, with low steep cliffs of red clay. There is a bar formed across the entrance into the lagoon off the south-west part of the bluff, with about thirteen feet at low water: there is a rise of two feet at the springs: high water at 1h. 50m. It is observed that the tide rises six inches higher in the night than in the day. During fresh north-east winds, the bar breaks heavily: it also varies in depth, being affected by the freshes out of the river. The flood tide only runs for three hours. There is a rapid current out of the lagoon after heavy rains.

When going in keep over on the starboard hand, close along the west side of the bluff. The best anchorage is just to the northward of the N.W. point of the bluff, in four or five fathoms muddy bottom. Above the anchorage it gets very shallow. There is a boat channel to the northward into the Blewfields River, and another to the westward, up to a large settlement situated under a hill, about three miles and a half west from the anchorage.

There are at this settlement between three and four hundred inhabitants. The same race as those who are settled at the Pearl Cay Lagoon, and at the islands to the eastward.

To anchor outside Blewfields in a vessel that cannot cross the bar, bring the south-west point of the bluff to bear W.N.W., and stand on till the right extreme of the bluff bears N.N.W., you will then be in five fathoms muddy bottom. This anchorage is exposed to the regular breezes, but there is plenty of room to weigh, and a clear bank to windward. There is a dangerous coral patch with as little as eight feet water, about two miles and a half S.b.E. from the south part of the bluff, and another similar patch with as little as six feet, about two miles and a half further to the southward, in the same line of bearing from the bluff, Outside of these rocky patches the bank is quite clear.

81

A CRUIZE IN THE LEVANT.-From Acre to Sidon and Beyrout.

[Extract rom the Remarks of H.M.S. Alfred, Capt. R. Maunsell-W. H. Hall, Master, June 1832.]

On the evening of the 29th of June we sailed from Kaiffa, and stood across the bay towards Cape Bianco, had seven and a half to thirteen and eleven fathoms when we tacked. Had light winds during the night from the north-west; soundings from sixteen to nineteen fathoms, but it deepened as we stood to the northward rather suddenly, as we could not get bottom with sixty fathoms of line out, and were at the time about three leagues off the land.

On the 30th passed Tyre in the morning, and at noon we were abreast of Sidon, which we hauled in for: found we had been set to northward during the night by the current. Anchored about three miles to the northward of the town in fourteen fathoms, sandy bottom, one mile and a quarter off shore. The wind being light from south-west, and current setting to the northward, obliged us to come to there. The regular anchorage for large ships being further to the southward, and abreast of the town.

Saida or Sidon, 1st and 2nd July.—The anchorage of Sidon is very much exposed to all winds that have westing, and there is generally a swell which makes riding bad outside for large ships, and the inner anchorage close to the northward of the town, which is sheltered by a long rocky island, with small rocks above water about it, is only fit for small men-of-war, and merchant vessels. The deepest water, and best place to anchor is just within the outer or northern point of the island; in from five and a half to six and a half fathoms, with the high square tower of the lower castle east; moor short, as there is not much room; the merchant vessels sometimes make one cable fast to the island.

The anchorage for large ships is abreast of the town, but we were obliged to come to three miles to the northward of it, in fourteen fathoms, as stated before; and had the following bearings-town of Sidon S. W., and the entrance of the southern point S.W.b.S.

Sounded from the ship towards the shore, and had thirteen to three fathoms. You may stand rather close to the island, and the town also. We had eight and ten fathoms from half a mile to a mile off, and in sounding around the northern point of the island in the boat, had five and six fathonis a cable and a half off.

Sidon is built on a hill close to the sea, and its situation may easily be known from the remarkable high land immediately behind it, which makes like two hummocks. When they bear E.Š.E. E. you are abreast of the town. To the northward of Sidon which you will soon make out by steering in, on that course, you will see the small islands and rocks, with the merchant vessels at anchor inside of them. There is a long wood to the northward of the town, and the country all about Sidon is beautifully cultivated.

The regular landing place for boats is to the southward of the castle, ENLARGED SERIES.-NO. 2.-vol. FOR 1841.

M

but if there is much surf on, it will be better to land to the northward of it, where you get into smooth water by rounding a small reef. Fresh meat and vegetables can be procured at a reasonable price. Good water can be had from a river about three miles to the northward of the town, if there is not much surf on.

No boats could approach the mouth of the river, or any part of the beach, on account of the surf, caused by a westerly swell, which lasted during our stay, although we had nothing but light breezes, which was off the land at night, and generally from the westward during the day, and moderate. Latitude 33° 34' N., longitude 35° 26′ E.

From Sidon to Tripoli, calling off Beyrout, 3d July.-At six A.M. we sailed from Sidon for Beyrout, the course being N.b.E. E. distance to the Cape about eighteen miles. We soon saw the latter which makes like an island; it is of moderate height, and may be always known from the quantity of sand both on, and to the southward of it.

The land between Sidon and Beyrout is high and mountainous. At 10h. 30m. we rounded the cape giving it a berth of about a mile, and hauled up for the town, off which we hove to, distant from it about one mile and a half. At 11h. 30m. sailed again from Beyrout without anchoring on account of the plague being there: steered along shore N.N.E for Cape Madonna, distant nearly thirty miles, which we soon made, being high and remarkable from having some white patches on both sides, which may be seen a long way off from the northward or southward, there is a village to the left of it.

Between Beyrout and Cape Madonna, the land is high and mountainous, with several villages and monasteries.

From abreast of the cape we saw Tripoli, which is situated a little inland. Shaped our course N.N.E. for the islands off it, distant nearly four leagues. We soon made out the spires of the village off which the anchorage is, and then the islands, which are a long way off from the land, and must be carefully avoided at night. Passed the outermost one, giving it a wide berth of rather more than a mile, and then hauled up under the lee of them for the anchorage.

We did not get soundings until close in, the first cast eleven fathoms, the second ten, and then nine and three-quarters, in which depth we anchored, rather hard bottom, about half a mile outside two Egyptian men-of-war brigs.

THE LEVANT.

WE must now make room for our arrears of Despatches from the Levant, our limited space unfortunately precluding the possibility of our keeping pace with the daily journals.

Princess Charlotte, Djournie Bay, near Beyrout,
October 1st, 1840.

SIR.I beg leave to enclose, for their lordships' information, copies of four letters which I have received from Captain Collier, of her Majesty's ship Castor, whom I had directed, in conformity with my instructions, to embarrass the Egyptian forces in possession of the towns on the coast from Beyrout to Jaffa, and encourage and support the faithful subjects of the Sultan, detailing his

proceedings at Caiffa, Jaffa, and Tsour, of which last we still hold possession; in the execution of which duties that zealous officer, and all concerned in these active operations, as particularized in his letters, have shown themselves worthy of their lordships' favourable attention.

It is pleasing to observe, that all this service has been performed without loss of a man; but I regret Lieutenant Macdougall and Mr. Gill, carpenter of the Pique, were severely wounded, by accident, though both are now doing well.

To R. More O'Ferrall, Esq.

I am, &c.,

ROBERT STOPFORD, Admiral.

H.M.S. Castor, off Acre, Sept. 20th, 1840. SIR. In compliance with your orders of the 14th instant, I have the honor to acquaint you that the Castor, with the Pique and Ottoman frigate Dewan, appeared off Caiffa on the evening of the 16th; and the following morning, about 6 o'clock, a boat was despatched with an officer of the Turkish frigate, accompanied by Lieutenant Shadwell in one from this ship, and both bearing flags of truce, to demand the surrender of the place to the Sublime Porte; the flag was refused, and peremptorily warned off; the ships took up their berths, Lieutenant Wellesley of this ship ably assisting in placing the Ottoman frigate, and a fire was opened on the batteries, the Castor commencing, which were manned and ready to receive us, with 500 men in the town; but such was the effect of the first few broadsides, that the troops abandoned their posts, deserted the town, leaving their arms, knapsacks, &c., in all directions. The Ottoman flag was soon planted on the ramparts by Lieutenant Patey, accompanied by Lieutenant Winthrop, Messrs. Connolly and Boyd, mates, Mr. Hare, midshipman, and Mr. Cole second-master, who were immediately joined by Lieut. Curry and Macdougall, and a party of seamen and marines from the Pique, and the whole party proceeded to spike and destroy, by knocking off the trunnions and burning the carriages of the eight guns on the ramparts; a quantity of arms, stores, and munitions of war were found in the magazine, all of which were either brought off or destroyed, amongst which were two 13-inch mortars, which were put on board the Ottoman frigate.

The following morning, the 13th, the Castor shifted her berth, to cover the entrance to the Acre-gate, at the distance of one mile from which 500 troops were distinctly seen drawn up. Towards the middle of the day, an officer and a few men had planted themselves in a castle, mounting five guns, in the rear of and commanding the town, but the well-directed fire of the Pique and Castor soon wounded the officer and dislodged the men, some of the latter seeking safety on board this ship. Considering the destruction of this castle and its guns most desirable, I ordered the marines of the two frigates, with their respective officers, Lieutenants Varlo, Moubray, and Hamley, Lieutenant Wellesley, Messrs. Cockburn and Gibbard, mates, Mr. Foley, midshipman, and Mr. Ramage, clerk, with a few seamen, and all under the command of Lieut. Patey, senior lieutenant of this ship on that service, which was gallantly and completely executed, by the guns being thrown out, and the walls shook to their foundation, and this in full view of 500 of the Egyptian army.

I am pleased to observe, that this service has been performed without the loss of a man, although I am grieved to say that Lieutenant Macdougall, of the Pique, has been severely wounded, by the discharge of one of the enemy's guns, whilst in the act of spiking it, and also Mr. Gill, carpenter of that ship, by the same explosion.

To my much-valued friend Captain Boxer, who has been unceasing in his exertions, both on shore and on board, in the execution of this service, I am much indebted for the success of the enterprise. The destruction of the defences of the town has been most complete; some prisoners have been taken, and many deserters have come over to us. i have great pleasure in apprising