729 A VOYAGE ALONG THE WESTERN COAST OF SUMATRA. from the Mole Rock, with it bearing north. Small coasting vessels go inside the Mole, but there is only little water. To go to the anchorage between the shoals, bring a remarkable hill with two peaks in line with the south extreme of the Mole Rock, bearing north 89° east, (true,) run in with that mark until you bring the white house on the north-west angle of the fortress, bearing north 49° east, (true,) then proceed as before described. To go in to the southward of the shoals, after passing Cape Carmel, it is necessary to give an offing to clear the shoal ground off Kaiffa, when you should haul in to the Bay of Acre, and shut Cape Bianco in with the fortress, and as you get to the northward, open the wooden jetty before described of the easternmost Mole Rock,-steer up by it, and anchor as before. Latitude observed of the south-west extreme of the fortress of Acre, 32° 54′ 41′′ north. Longitude of do. by chronometers, 6° 52′ 18′′ east of the Arabs Tower at Rhodes, or 35° 7′ 18′′ east of Greenwich. Longitude of Seraglio Point, eastern extreme, by chronometers, 0° 45' 32" east of the Arabs Tower at Rhodes, or 29° 0' 32" east of Greenwich. Nov. 1840. G. BIDDLECOMBE, Master H.M.S. Talbot. THE ESCRETIS ISLANDS. WE left Marmorice with a southerly wind, and stood to the W.S.W. for Candia, but the wind coming from the south-west off the islands of Escretis, we were obliged to bear up and run back to the island of Kos, where we anchored till the weather moderated. The island of St. John, which is clearly seen at thirty miles distance, appears quite safe, (having passed close to it,) on its northern side between it and the Safrania Islets; but to the south-eastward are the Escreti Islets, which are very dangerous, being very low, and a reef extending some distance to the south-east of the southernmost islet; there appear five in number, and midway between St. John and the Escretis is a very small and low islet, with a reef about a mile distant from it, bearing S.W. W. (magnetic,) from the islet, with some of the rocks about the height of a small vessel's hull above water. Another similar reef we observed about two or three miles south-west (magnetic,) from St. John, but the weather would not admit of lowering a boat to examine it, but great care should be observed in nearing the Escreti Islets, particularly at night. 21st April, 1841. G. BIDDLECOMBE, Master H.M.S. Talbot. A VOYAGE ALONG THE WESTERN COAST OF SUMATRA. London, 26th September, 1841. SIR.-I beg leave to communicate you some brief remarks, made during a coasting voyage for Pepper, on the west coast of Sumatra, from ENLARGED SERIES.-NO. 11.-VOL. FOR 1841. 5 A Padang northward as far as Cape Felix, in the Frankland, of Liverpool, under my command, from August to November, 1840. On my outward voyage to Padang, I made South Poggy-wind light from north-west with fine weather, stood in for the south point of the island. At noon, of the 19th of August, the extreme point bore E. N., by compass three miles and a half; latitude obs. 3° 20' 15" south, longitude by chromometer 100° 32′ east, by O and 100° 31' 15" east, which make that part of the island eleven miles farther south, and fifteen miles more east, than the situation assigned on Norie's chart. The channel round this part of the island appeared quite clear of dangers, as nothing could be seen from the masthead at a considerable distance around. I intended to have taken that channel, but the wind veering more to the north, with some easting, induced me to work up along the west side, and adopt the channel between the North Poggy and South Pora, which I found safe and open, with a distance across about eleven miles. On my homeward voyage, I came through this same channel in a dark squally night, and would, at all seasons, adopt it, particularly if bound to the northern ports of Sumatra; care, however, should be taken in shaping a course through in the night, to guard against the south-easterly current in the north-west monsoons. Arrived at Padang on the 21st of the month, and sailed for the Pepper coast on the 1st of September :-coasted up to the northward by the inner passage, (which I found tedious and perplexing, owing to strong north-westers, lee current, and calms,) at some risk of being set upon some of the surrounding dangers, which made frequent anchoring indispensible. On the 12th of the month, I reached Nattal, or Oujong Carracura; making no progress to the northward, I was induced to stand out for Pulo Nyas. In approaching that coast, I found the wind more variable, and less current, which enabled me to work up to the northward pretty briskly along the east side. I made Samsama, a small island contiguous to the coast, in latitude 0° 53′ north, longitude 97° 48′ east, being eleven miles farther south than laid down on the chart. The south-east end of Pulo Nyas, 0° 30' north per bearings; the coast along this side of the island is clear, except close inshore,-in working along the coast, a ship may borrow in with the land, in order to benefit by the land breeze at night. N.B. The long range of reefs that stretches to the southward from Panlo-doa, as lay down on the chart, must be further to the northeastward than the situations assigned on Norie's chart, as no danger of any description could be seen from the masthead at a considerable distance around, when, by actual observation, the ship was within one mile of the southern extreme of that shoal, observed in 0° 57' north, longitude 98° 13' east. The chart lays down that part of the shoal in latitude 0° 58′ south, longitude 98° 13' east. Pulo Lacotta I made in latitude 1° 28′ north, longitude 97° 51′ east, by meridian altitude and chronometer. Pulo Doondoon, or Bird Island, bears N. W. from Pulo Lacotta, distant twenty-one miles, which places it in 1° 48′ north, and 97° 49′ east, whereas, the chart makes the distance between the two, only four miles,-the sand bank is about four miles S. W. from Bird Island. S.S.W. from Bird Island, at the distance of two miles, there is a small coral patch, not more than eighty or ninety feet in extent, with five and six fathoms on it; the ship passed over it quick, got only two casts of the lead; saw another small patch of discoloured water in a north-east direction from the island, about three or four miles distance. The north-west end of Pulo Mansular I made 1° 40' north, longitude 97° 18' east, per bearings from Bird Island. On my return to Padang from the Pepper coast, I adopted the same route, and I found the positions of the above places to correspond as laid down on my outward. passage, having passed close to them in both routes. Javo Javee, or Passage Island, I made in latitude 2° 22′ 15′′ north, longitude 97° 24' east. This island may be seen six leagues off in clear weather, and is about a large quarter of a mile in circumference, with many large cocoa-nut trees upon it. I rounded the east side at less than a quarter of a mile off, carrying from eleven to thirteen fathoms, rocky bottom. This channel is perfectly safe with a commanding breeze, as the flats that shelve off the east side can be distinctly seen, and be avoided in daylight, but it would not be prudent to attempt it at night, as the tides hereabouts are very irregular, being somewhat deflected by the contiguous shoals, which I found to be the case when at anchor in the neighbourhood of the island. In coming from the southward, I made Linkel Point, which I would always advise to do; the point may be easily known by a large clump tree on the extreme. With this point bearing north-east, per compass nine miles, I steered for Passage Island N.W.N.;-endeavoured to get through before dark, but the wind failing upon a southerly current, I was obliged to anchor with the stream in sixteen fathoms, the island N.N.W., distant three miles. On my return to Padang, I had occasion to anchor for the night, the island bearing S.E. S. five miles, in twenty fathoms, coarse bottom; in both instances whilst at anchor, (which happened near the full and change,) I found the tides during the whole of the night, from S.S.E., south-west, and E.S.E., nearly two knots; their greatest rate was, when setting S.S.E., which I conclude was occasioned by the northerly wind that blew during that night. On the 15th of September anchored in Tampat Tuan Bay; the best anchorage in this place is in twenty fathoms soft ground, the point bearing W. S., distant one mile. You will then be about the same distance from the reef, that lies E.S.E. of you in the bay; with the point at that bearing, you will be a little sheltered from the northwesters. There are two rocks off the point above water, that appear like a boat at a distance, one about a quarter of a mile S.S.W.; the outer one is nearly two miles distant, bearing S.W. S. from the point, with heavy breakers on them in blowing weather. Good water can be easily procured with your own boats here, as the river is not more than ninety yards from the beach,-roll the casks up, and fill them and tow them off. The anchorage I made in 3° 16' north, longitude per chronometer 97° 7' east. In going from this place to Allo Pawko, the ship passed over a coral bank, with five fathoms on it with this bearing on, the white rocks off Tallo Pau Point, N.E.b.E. three miles and half. There is another shoal with from five to seven fathoms, bearing S. W., distant five miles from the Bluff Head at Allo Pawko. The best anchorage here is with the Bluff Head E. S., three-quarters of a mile off shore. There is a shoal, I was informed by the native fishermen, with only eleven feet on it, S.S.W. from Mackie Point, six or seven miles distant. The anchorage at Mackie is in seventeen fathoms soft ground, the point on the village side bearing north-west, a quarter of a mile off shore, which will place you about the same distance from the reef, south-east of the point. In sailing from Mackie, northward, care should be taken not to approach too near the reef off Mangin Point in light winds, as there is a strong indraught upon the point, caused by the under surges of the breakers, which I found by experience in passing to the northward. In sailing from Sooso, northward, it would be advisable to stand to the south-westward four or five miles, and work up at that distance, until Rio Point bears north-east, and Quallo Moodah N.E. to clear the shoal that lies three miles off the latter, called by the natives Carrang Jadang. Having cleared that reef, you may work up to Cape Felix, at any convenient distance, as circumstances and prudence require. I am, &c., To Capt. Beaufort, R.N. Jos. PEARCE. THE NIGER EXPEDITION. EXTRACT of a letter from an officer, on board her Majesty's steam-vessel "Albert," dated Madeira, the 21st of May, 1841. "After full a fortnight's detention by contrary winds at Plymouth, we started, all things smiling upon us, and had a delightful passage to this place of eight days and a half, when using wind and steam, beating everything we saw, but two days we ran five and five and a half knots, under canvass alone. The vessel answers admirably with one boiler, yet is not the gain of fuel equal to the loss of time and speed, under general circumstances, as we burned six tons with one boiler, nine tons with two. The prints don't do the vessels justice, they are good sea boats, but at times a little unpleasant; this is inseparable from these shallow flat bottoms. The ventilation answers admirably, besides making it more agreeable, the air is considerably drier, as shewn to the amount of three and a half degrees by the hygrometer." Her Majesty's steam-vessel Wilberforce, MY DEAR SIR.I wrote from St. Vincent, giving you some account of our proceedings there; we completed our arrangements of clearing out, whitewashing, and re-stowing holds, taking in provisions from the transport, &c., all of which we were able to do with great facility, as the place Porto Grande is admirably calculated for the purpose; it is very safe, and though there is a constant swell, it may be avoided by anchoring very close to the custom-house. I found, where no line of soundings was laid down in Vidal's chart of Porto Grande, ten fathoms one-third of a mile from Punta Botelha. I send you a sketch of the island of St. Vincent, (the outline traced from Vidal's survey,) shewing the elevation and direction of the mountain ridges, with the water courses, &c., which are rather different from his; it has been done for me by Mr. Roscher,* our German mineralogist, who will I think from his talent and energy, be of great use to the expedition. The Soudan and the transport sailed for Cape Coast Castle, and the Albert for Sierra Leone, on the 18th ult., and I was ordered to San Antonio for water. I arrived off Tarafal Bay in the night, and anchored on a bank, (where deep water has been supposed,) with seventeen fathoms, hard sand, bearings (true,) south point of San Antonio, south 38° east, and Tarafal Bay, north 63° east, three-quarters of a mile. We ran along at daybreak, looking for the bay, which does not shew itself unless when close inshore. The best directions would be, to anchor half a cable's length from the shore, at the only green spot. Although there is a sandy beach, I found that it would be impossible to roll the casks over it, as there are a great many stones. I shifted my berth therefore to the steep stony beach, abreast of the palm tree, at the foot of which we formed a pool and led the water to it, and could thus have a hose brought into the paddle-box boat, anchored close to the shore. These boats have been of the greatest use to us, in this as well as at St. Vincent, and our watering would have been very easy, but we were obliged to depend for our supply on the filling of an upper pool for another, and our pool below was in such a thirsty soil, that if we had not casks ready to fill, the water soon disappeared. Immediately on leaving Tarafal Bay we had a stiff breeze, and a heavy sea, and found the foremast sprung, which prevented our using the sails; I was also afraid one of the boilers was damaged, however, we got over all our difficulties, and joined the Albert at this place. The Soudan put in on the 29th ult., not having sufficient coals to carry her to Cape Coast Castle. As there are no soundings laid down on our line of approach to Sierra Leone, I had them taken frequently, and I send you a tracing of them. I apologised to you in my last, for not having sent you my magnetical observations, I now have the pleasure of transmitting those I have made for dip with Fox's needle, for intensity with Hansteen's apparatus, and for variation with the committee compass, and with the declination magnetometer. In observing with the latter instrument, many difficulties arose, I had no precise direction for much that I required to know, such as the position of the theodolite, and I only determined its distance from the needle, in the three last experiments for declination. Indeed, I was so annoyed at constantly finding a different reading, after the reversal of the needle, that I frequently shifted the instrument, in order to take out the error; thus, after great labour, I found all my work to do over again; but when at length I resolved to allow for the error, I found that in the examples given by Weber, the same and greater differences existed before and after reversal. Scientific men will smile at my difficulties, but at this distance, with none to dispute it, I take no small share of satisfaction at having * Mr. Roscher's description follows. |
